I have a pair of FE206s and lots of am looking for an easy simple build for them. I have most of the tools needed(table saw,chop say,scroll saw,router,clamps etc) just not a lot of wood working skill.
I want to use them in a 10x10 room(bedroom) with a low power chip amp and eventually a tube amp.
Just looking for suggestions/ideas would be appreciated!
I want to use them in a 10x10 room(bedroom) with a low power chip amp and eventually a tube amp.
Just looking for suggestions/ideas would be appreciated!
Not really the best driver for such a small room, but it limits you to something like the one sreten points to (a guess & by golly design AFAIK) or a heavily simmed & vetted designlike the RonHorn Dallas.
Your room is far too small for Kirashima or Vulcan, and the Fostex factory designs do not get the most out of the driver.
You could also look at MJK's ML-TL, but that requires EQ to bring the bass up (you actually shelve the mid/top down), given your small room that probably wouldn't be too much of a hardship.
dave
Your room is far too small for Kirashima or Vulcan, and the Fostex factory designs do not get the most out of the driver.
You could also look at MJK's ML-TL, but that requires EQ to bring the bass up (you actually shelve the mid/top down), given your small room that probably wouldn't be too much of a hardship.
dave
Add a 4r7 series resistor, use a 30L cabinet with 8" lng 3" dia vent.
When you get the valve amp, play with lowering the resistor value, or taking it out completely.
The extra resistance raises Qts to a point where its easy to put the driver in a ported cabinet, instead of having to build a large BLH to get any bass.
Chris
When you get the valve amp, play with lowering the resistor value, or taking it out completely.
The extra resistance raises Qts to a point where its easy to put the driver in a ported cabinet, instead of having to build a large BLH to get any bass.
Chris
Our experiments with adding R to make up for a less than satisfactory cabinet were less than satisfactory.
In that room, with that driver, Dallas. Anything else, you are better to flog the 206s and get somethingmore appropriate.
dave
The Dallas is definitely the most visually appealing.....but it looks a bit beyond my woodworking capabilities. I have a neighbor who makes summer yard furniture so I going to see if he might be able to do the cutting for me(and Ill assemble).
I also found a cool looking plan from moreart.de for a trumpet horn......
Going to talk to my neighbor as soon as I dee him.
Thanks again all...
I also found a cool looking plan from moreart.de for a trumpet horn......
Going to talk to my neighbor as soon as I dee him.
Thanks again all...
Hi,
For someone who tends to bang on about current rather than voltage
amplifiers you seem to be disingenuously misinterpreting C661 post.
He made a very good point, which you are only misrepresenting above.
rgds, sreten.
wiring speaker frame to driver minus connection?
Hi there: In the above referenced url, the writer wired the driver frame to the driver minus connection, stating improved response. (see paragraph on modifications, second tweek). Does anyone else report on experience with this modification to a Fostek driver .....regards, Michael
Hi there: In the above referenced url, the writer wired the driver frame to the driver minus connection, stating improved response. (see paragraph on modifications, second tweek). Does anyone else report on experience with this modification to a Fostek driver .....regards, Michael
Michael, anyone who claims a tweak like this makes a claim of "startling change in clarity" and "very much improved" is absolutely full of it. It might make a small difference as most tweaks do, but would need blind A/B to prove. But then, it can't hurt. I have seen drivers with grounding points built in. Give it a try, but be honest about the results.
Bob
Just becareful that by doing that you are actually grounding the baskt (ieon any bridged amp neither of the speaker terminals is ground.
Onecould surmise that this is similar to Bud's groundside electrons.
Note that many a vintage European driver has a terminal lug attached to the basket, and that some modern Tannoys have a separtate terminal on the back.
dave
Onecould surmise that this is similar to Bud's groundside electrons.
Note that many a vintage European driver has a terminal lug attached to the basket, and that some modern Tannoys have a separtate terminal on the back.
dave
Hi,
That is what you were implying but didn't say, your saying it has to be
in a horn, current drive or not, which is very arguable. You can modify
the feedback loop of a gainclone to be a "proper" current amplifier as
you well know, so you don't need the series R, i.e. its irrelevant.
Variable Amplifier Impedance
You can also use the technique to modify "voltage" valve amplifiers.
rgds, sreten.
Hi,
Something largely propounded by Tannoy as a USP, an extra 5th terminal,
which is strictly only theoretically necessary for biwiring if both amplifiers
are bridged, otherwise easy enough to arrange internally in the speaker.
That is no good for the externally apparent USP (Unique Selling Point).
Take with a large pinch of salt. Its not done internally in any
speaker I know of, including the more mundane Tannoys.
rgds, sreten.
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Yes we have one of those -- it is decent but not as good as the discreet one. A curremt amp will "boost" the bass but it won't solve for the low xMax. A horn will.
dave
Somebody on the forum said that Fostex FE206 can work in Karlson 12 box. Not having heard any Karlson box myself, I can't comment on the sound. I've had a pair of Fe206e in Mjk's ML-TL's but never really liked them. Little bas, lots of shout. Now I am using those ML-TL boxes for experimenting with some woofers in FAST arrangement, it`s different story...
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