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Old 7th October 2012, 06:31 PM   #11
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edit:I need to compile a cutsheet THEN talk to him!
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Old 7th October 2012, 09:42 PM   #12
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Our experiments with adding R to make up for a less
than satisfactory cabinet were less than satisfactory.
dave
Hi,

For someone who tends to bang on about current rather than voltage
amplifiers you seem to be disingenuously misinterpreting C661 post.

He made a very good point, which you are only misrepresenting above.

rgds, sreten.
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Old 7th October 2012, 09:59 PM   #13
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Sreten, i understand the difference... in our experience adding a series R is not near as effective as having a proprt current amp, and even one of those won't solve the FE206 not in a horn issue.

dave
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Old 8th October 2012, 12:55 AM   #14
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Default wiring speaker frame to driver minus connection?

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Originally Posted by sreten View Post
Hi there: In the above referenced url, the writer wired the driver frame to the driver minus connection, stating improved response. (see paragraph on modifications, second tweek). Does anyone else report on experience with this modification to a Fostek driver .....regards, Michael
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Old 8th October 2012, 01:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.michael droke View Post
Hi there: In the above referenced url, the writer wired the driver frame to the driver minus connection, stating improved response. (see paragraph on modifications, second tweek). Does anyone else report on experience with this modification to a Fostek driver .....regards, Michael
Michael, anyone who claims a tweak like this makes a claim of "startling change in clarity" and "very much improved" is absolutely full of it. It might make a small difference as most tweaks do, but would need blind A/B to prove. But then, it can't hurt. I have seen drivers with grounding points built in. Give it a try, but be honest about the results.

Bob
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Old 8th October 2012, 02:14 AM   #16
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Just becareful that by doing that you are actually grounding the baskt (ieon any bridged amp neither of the speaker terminals is ground.

Onecould surmise that this is similar to Bud's groundside electrons.

Note that many a vintage European driver has a terminal lug attached to the basket, and that some modern Tannoys have a separtate terminal on the back.

dave
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Old 8th October 2012, 02:27 AM   #17
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Sreten, i understand the difference... in our experience adding a series R
is not near as effective as having a proper current amp, and even one
of those won't solve the FE206 not in a horn issue.
dave
Hi,

That is what you were implying but didn't say, your saying it has to be
in a horn, current drive or not, which is very arguable. You can modify
the feedback loop of a gainclone to be a "proper" current amplifier as
you well know, so you don't need the series R, i.e. its irrelevant.

Variable Amplifier Impedance

You can also use the technique to modify "voltage" valve amplifiers.

rgds, sreten.
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Old 8th October 2012, 02:38 AM   #18
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.michael droke View Post
Hi there: In the above referenced url, the writer wired the driver frame to
the driver minus connection, stating improved response. (see paragraph
on modifications, second tweek). Does anyone else report on experience
with this modification to a Fostek driver .....regards, Michael
Hi,

Something largely propounded by Tannoy as a USP, an extra 5th terminal,
which is strictly only theoretically necessary for biwiring if both amplifiers
are bridged, otherwise easy enough to arrange internally in the speaker.

That is no good for the externally apparent USP (Unique Selling Point).

Take with a large pinch of salt. Its not done internally in any
speaker I know of, including the more mundane Tannoys.

rgds, sreten.
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Last edited by sreten; 8th October 2012 at 02:44 AM.
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Old 8th October 2012, 03:34 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreten View Post
You can modify
the feedback loop of a gainclone to be a "proper" current amplifier as
you well know, so you don't need the series R, i.e. its irrelevant.
Yes we have one of those -- it is decent but not as good as the discreet one. A curremt amp will "boost" the bass but it won't solve for the low xMax. A horn will.

dave
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Old 8th October 2012, 06:01 PM   #20
Vix is offline Vix  Yugoslavia
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Somebody on the forum said that Fostex FE206 can work in Karlson 12 box. Not having heard any Karlson box myself, I can't comment on the sound. I've had a pair of Fe206e in Mjk's ML-TL's but never really liked them. Little bas, lots of shout. Now I am using those ML-TL boxes for experimenting with some woofers in FAST arrangement, it`s different story...
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