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Old 26th September 2012, 01:41 AM   #21
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Plywood is wood, mdf was wood. Mdf might as well be ashes. Breathe it in. I did. Hope I make it a while longer. If a smooth surface is all you need, enjoy!
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Old 26th September 2012, 01:42 AM   #22
sippy is offline sippy  United Kingdom
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Pva and Copydex work great on eps - been skinning foam cored model aircraft wings for years using these glues.
Vac bagging would work very well btw.
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Old 26th September 2012, 01:44 AM   #23
Bare is offline Bare  Canada
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Don't like MDF.. Don't use it :-) Some Fine speakers have been made using MDF.
Fender used 1/2" pine on his Amps speaker boxes.
All pales to insignificance when trying to cajole a teeny driver into imitating a decent sized one.
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Old 26th September 2012, 01:46 AM   #24
sippy is offline sippy  United Kingdom
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Energy has to go some where, no matter how little is produced.......
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Old 26th September 2012, 01:49 AM   #25
doorman is offline doorman  Canada
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And another for whom the MDF dust is a deal breaker even if it was as good or better than the alternatives.
Gimmie plywood!
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Old 26th September 2012, 02:04 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by FozzZ View Post
As far as health risks, both materials use the same glue. Fiber board can produce fine dust, but a proper dust collection system will help this.
With a dust collection system and a table saw the dust from MDF is tolerable on an occasional basis.

However, the real difference in dust occurs when the router comes out.
For this reason alone, I'll try to avoid using MDF in the future.

Originally Posted by FozzZ View Post
I know now this is a redundant topic, so forgive me for that.
I'm thankful to read other people's ideas on this issue.
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Old 26th September 2012, 04:10 AM   #27
FozzZ is offline FozzZ  Canada
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Use a router table or shaper of you have one. Dust collection is very effective with these tools.
Using a router free hand can make things trickier, but using up spiral cutters and the proper router attachments (with dust collection) helps control dust pretty well.

But I won't deny MDF is not fun if you don't have the means to control it. And even then, it's a trick.
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Old 26th September 2012, 08:24 AM   #28
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Most hardwood dust is toxic, oak,beech and ash for a kick off. Think about it, insects want to eat trees and trees want to stop them. The difference is that real wood looks great and smells nice so it's forgiven while MDF lacks glamour. It's funny really because MDF is basically paper which is very highly regarded. I wonder what the outlook would be if MDF were hand pressed by Japanese artisans and cost a bundle?
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Old 26th September 2012, 11:36 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Uunderhill View Post
Aka a composite.

Is there a reason why you are going with polystyrene bead board ?
I think you are far better off with 400 weight styrofoam.
It can be purchased as small as 1/2" inch thick.
I can get bead board in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" in 4'x8' panels at Lowes. It has a plastic vapor barrier on both sides that is easily removable. Closed cell styrofoam would probably be better, but out here in the weeds, you take what you can get.

I've never worked with masonite (sorry if I am a wood snob).
I can also try 5.2mm plywood. Who knows?

Polyvinyl wood glue (aka carpenter's glue) will bond styrofoam to real wood just fine.
I can get the previously recommended PL300.

But I've never tried to bond the gloss side of masonite.
All of the 1/8" and most of the 1/4" Masonite I can get is dry pressed -- i.e. waffle pattern on one side.

As always, regardless of which adhesive you select - try it on a sample first.

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Old 26th September 2012, 12:14 PM   #30
tsiros is offline tsiros  Greece
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plywood is wood, treated to be neutral: alternating wood grain panels. that is why in greek and french it is called "Contreplaqué": it is cross-oriented. MDF isn't wood, it is rough sawdust glued together.

Other than that i have no idea what difference they have in sound. It would be fun to make two twin cabinets using the same amount of money to buy the materials and find out which measures and/or sounds better.
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