Hi all,
I've been intregued by the idea of Fullrange speaker systems or some time. Up to this point I've only built more common Multi way speaker systems. I recently posted a question about dipole Fullrange speakers. I was asking this question because I had planned to use standard sealed or vented system for the bottom end and allow the Fullrange to do everything else. This is my way of easing into the Fullrange world. Im not a bass head but depending on what you read, many say Fullrange systems have little to no bass response. This is one thing that has held me back.
The other part that keeps me from moving to Fullrange is the design requirements. I've read articles on how to design rear loaded horns, but I'm not understanding what I'm reading. Either I'm not reading them correctly or I'm reading the wrong articles. This is what I've taken from it so far.
Horn length is generally a quarter wavelength of the tunning frequency.
Tunning frequency us derived from the speakers Fs, but you should use a slightly higher or lower frequency to reduce peekyness (about 5Hz).
I have no idea how to calculate the horn throat or opening or the ratio of expansion between them.
I know there is going to be some trial and error, but a general guideline on how to start would be most helpful.
I would also like to know what the difference is between a folded horn and the big round horns (the ones that can often look kind of like a saxaphone).
If its possible to attain moderate bass response, I would be thrilled to take one of these projects on.
Sorry for the long winded question.
Thanks
I've been intregued by the idea of Fullrange speaker systems or some time. Up to this point I've only built more common Multi way speaker systems. I recently posted a question about dipole Fullrange speakers. I was asking this question because I had planned to use standard sealed or vented system for the bottom end and allow the Fullrange to do everything else. This is my way of easing into the Fullrange world. Im not a bass head but depending on what you read, many say Fullrange systems have little to no bass response. This is one thing that has held me back.
The other part that keeps me from moving to Fullrange is the design requirements. I've read articles on how to design rear loaded horns, but I'm not understanding what I'm reading. Either I'm not reading them correctly or I'm reading the wrong articles. This is what I've taken from it so far.
Horn length is generally a quarter wavelength of the tunning frequency.
Tunning frequency us derived from the speakers Fs, but you should use a slightly higher or lower frequency to reduce peekyness (about 5Hz).
I have no idea how to calculate the horn throat or opening or the ratio of expansion between them.
I know there is going to be some trial and error, but a general guideline on how to start would be most helpful.
I would also like to know what the difference is between a folded horn and the big round horns (the ones that can often look kind of like a saxaphone).
If its possible to attain moderate bass response, I would be thrilled to take one of these projects on.
Sorry for the long winded question.
Thanks
There exist fullrange units that have plenty of bass and can be put into simple sealed enclosures. They sound basically the same as multi-way speakers although without the top-end airy treble.
That said, the more commonly used fullrange drivers have a forward presentation (peaky in the upper midrange due to cone breakup), and no BSC. Once you get used to this bright kind of sound, a normal speaker will sound subdued and dull.
I would recommend the TANG BAND W4-1757SB as the driver to get.
That said, the more commonly used fullrange drivers have a forward presentation (peaky in the upper midrange due to cone breakup), and no BSC. Once you get used to this bright kind of sound, a normal speaker will sound subdued and dull.
I would recommend the TANG BAND W4-1757SB as the driver to get.
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Some of them have just fine treble, in some cases better than fancy expensive tweeters, The lure of the FR, and the reason for the fanatics, is their seemlessness, to quote a luminary (that builds multiways) "XOs are evil)
The best FRs usually benefiy from enclosure more elaborate than sealed,
And on a budget, it is hard to beat a good FR with a multiway.
Just like anything there is the good, the bad, and the ugly, but in the last few years the best have made strides that let them equal or surpass the best drivers made at the historical peak of FR development.
For your 1st project choose something already designed & proven. The choice is dizzying.
dave
I have no doubt the choices are near limitless.
I am willing to "copy" a proven design but I've never built a speaker based off of another design. I'm must be stubborn or somthing? And I do want to know what
Im doing and why. Are there any Referances that I can read that might shine a little light on how to design horns? Preferably something not ubber technical. My background is woodworking, not acoustics, so my knowledge is limited in this field.
And as a starting point, what drivers could be recommended for around $500 per set of less. Rembering that I'm hoping to attain the lower octaves!
I will try to research proven designs in the mean time.
Thank you
I am willing to "copy" a proven design but I've never built a speaker based off of another design. I'm must be stubborn or somthing? And I do want to know what
Im doing and why. Are there any Referances that I can read that might shine a little light on how to design horns? Preferably something not ubber technical. My background is woodworking, not acoustics, so my knowledge is limited in this field.
And as a starting point, what drivers could be recommended for around $500 per set of less. Rembering that I'm hoping to attain the lower octaves!
I will try to research proven designs in the mean time.
Thank you
If size isn't a constraint, I can recommend Krishima's with Fostex Fe206 en's. I built a pair and found the bass pretty satisfying, I also have a pair of Vulcans and they are very good too though I think they require more corner placement. I have to admit however that lately I've been running a sub and do like to hear that low grunt where appropriate.
Good Stuff!
bass.
http://www.free-press-release.com/uploads/news/2010/01/23/1264255092_img1.jpg
I like the idea of small horn speakers with a sub. No crossover on the horns, good sensitivity and bass extension
I like the idea of small horn speakers with a sub. No crossover on the horns, good sensitivity and bass extension
That was sort of the idea I was going to run with first (Dipole). Nit exactly the same thing, but a two way none the less.
I think I would like to try a true Fullrange this time around. Some sort of back loaded horn. And I will most likely take the advice above and use a preexisting design. I'll modify it enough cosmetically that I won't feel like I'm totally copying someone else.
Now the choice is what driver to use!
I think I would like to try a true Fullrange this time around. Some sort of back loaded horn. And I will most likely take the advice above and use a preexisting design. I'll modify it enough cosmetically that I won't feel like I'm totally copying someone else.
Now the choice is what driver to use!
I'm using Tang Band w8 1772 8 inch fullrangers in a MLTL with great results! Nice punchy bass, smooth mids and no need to add a tweeter. This combination does it all, plays quite loud on a few good watts! Ive built and listened to many other fullrange drivers and these are hard to beat!
Larry
Larry
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