MARTELLO-2, a mini-tower from a single 2' x 4' - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 20th September 2012, 07:16 PM   #11
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loninappleton View Post
Another possibility for my CHR 70.

Can you point to a dimensional drawing?

I think this is based on the P10 MicroTower series, link to the full plan set is temporarily broken - when fixed should either be

frugal-phile.com/...microTower-maps-150909.pdf


or Dave can edit with new URL
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Old 20th September 2012, 09:16 PM   #12
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When i was fixing the link i tool the opportunity to upload a version of the plans with a few minor updates:

http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/micro...aps-290412.pdf

dave
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Old 20th September 2012, 11:49 PM   #13
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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yes, much has been gleaned from those plans - cross-sectional area & line length for example.

I'll post some dimensions once I've got the drawing ready.
Attached Images
File Type: png MLTL rev2.png (16.2 KB, 414 views)
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Old 21st September 2012, 12:38 AM   #14
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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Here's how I might cut the parts from a single 2' x 4' sheet.

Note that with the mitre joints I will cut them at 45 degrees out of the sheet. This means that the parts can be sized differently (larger) than if I were to make a straight cut and then make the 45 degree edges afterwards (which would waste wood). Maybe this sounds complicated, but it's not - it just means you can scale the depth of the box slightly (1cm) depending on how you cut the pieces out and the size of the kerf of your saw. For me, the kerf is 2mm and things work out nicely as you can see. This is preliminary, the main pieces are good but I may use some of the left-overs to decorate the 'feet', create some cleats for the base, add some internal bracing pieces or whatever.

p.s. if you plan to use the planet10 drawings some versions of them have a formula for calculating the length of the port - the formula is not applicable to the MLTL that is described in this thread.
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File Type: png MLTL rev2.png (13.8 KB, 414 views)
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Old 21st September 2012, 01:57 AM   #15
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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Here are the basic dimensions, front view on left, side view (right facing) on the right. The port tube is not shown and I plan on a bit of trial and error to finalize it - but the design size is 50mm diameter PVC pipe, 14cm long. The driver support brace is shown in earlier posts as having a semi-circular cut out to clear the driver magnet - in reality this wants to be shaped so as to support the magnet and brace it to the surrounding box panels. I may decide to make a semi-circular clearance shape like shown, install it along with the driver and then install an adjustable piece to brace the magnet, to allow for different driver options after construction is finished.


Remember, the exact depth of the box (width of side panels) will depend on how the mitre joints are cut. Plywood thickness is 11.5mm.
Attached Images
File Type: png Front and Side dimensions.png (19.8 KB, 404 views)
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Last edited by Bigun; 21st September 2012 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 24th September 2012, 02:53 AM   #16
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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well I haven't found it easy making the 45 degree mitre cuts using a hand-held circular saw with pieces clamped on a workbench in my driveway, using a bag of salt for additional ballast. Most the pieces are now cut but test fitting shows that the mitre joints are not going to be precise enough for strong air tight results. Fortunately, I have a 45 degree edge trimmer bit for my hand-held router so I can clean up the edges - but it may be a bit laborious. This is what DIY is all about !
Attached Images
File Type: jpg holding workpiece.JPG (96.7 KB, 381 views)
File Type: jpg cut pieces.JPG (98.4 KB, 315 views)
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Old 29th September 2012, 12:18 AM   #17
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I've routed the 45 degree edges to tidy them up and glued up the inner baffles to the front baffle...
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File Type: jpg inner baffle.JPG (40.2 KB, 103 views)
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Old 30th September 2012, 01:59 AM   #18
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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the sides are lined up with the front baffle and the corners taped to hold them in place - then the glue is placed along the faces of the join and the sides are folded up to 90 degrees - the tape clamps the corners whilst the glue dries

the difficulty comes when gluing on the tops, I don't have clamps of the right size so we use the old standby, salt bags...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg lined up for gluing.JPG (23.9 KB, 96 views)
File Type: jpg after gluing.JPG (47.3 KB, 97 views)
File Type: jpg gluing lids.JPG (105.4 KB, 120 views)
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Old 30th September 2012, 03:13 AM   #19
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I nearly lost my mind doing some mitres this summer. You are brave to even try with a skill saw!

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Old 30th September 2012, 03:54 AM   #20
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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I think I was just too dumb to know better, I won't be using mitres again in a hurry !!!!
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