Zaph Hi-Vi BS3 question - diyAudio
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Old 16th September 2012, 07:50 PM   #1
87regal is offline 87regal  United States
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Default Zaph Hi-Vi BS3 question

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"This speaker requires a subwoofer and a proper subwoofer crossover. Like all other 3" drivers, this speaker has serious harmonic distortion below 100hz. When running this system full range, the bass will sound thick, muddy and too heavy. It's not the driver's high Qts doing this, nor is it the choice of baffle step compensation. It's the 2nd and 3rd order harmonic distortion. When you play an 80hz tone through these, you also get a loud dose of 160hz and 240hz. Don't make the mistake of thinking more bass is better bass, particularly when "more" comes in the form harmonic distortion. This design has terrible bass distortion and should not be run full range. Period. You owe it to yourself to learn the sound of distorted bass. Run these full range, then take a listen with a good sub and a proper sub crossover. The difference will blow your mind, and then you'll understand what good bass really is. More on a "proper" sub crossover below."



I thought I found the perfect candidate for my next project until I read that. So my question is, would a passive notch filter at 80hz work? If not, why? This project is for a bedroom TV to be used at night, so output and low extension are not needed.


EDIT: Sorry I wasn't clear, I want to do a 2.0 w/o a sub. I'm looking to use one of those class T mini amps to keep costs down, but if I can find something like those amps but 2.1 I would probably go with a sub. With one of those amps I'm a little limited on power, but I have no limit on size.

Last edited by 87regal; 16th September 2012 at 09:30 PM. Reason: forgot some details.
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Old 16th September 2012, 07:58 PM   #2
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So, do you want to just run these full range without a sub?
And use a high pass filter at 80 hz?
I think if you are going to go through the trouble of building a box, you should invest in a more capable driver.
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Old 16th September 2012, 08:30 PM   #3
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Depends. The B3 isn't bad for the money, as Zaph points out. Me, I'd rather have an FF85wk in a uFonken (I've heard both, and use the latter -measures better than the HiVi too in most respects). However, re the original question -sort of. But. The component values will be large, and expensive, nor will it do as well as a proper XO.
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Old 16th September 2012, 09:18 PM   #4
87regal is offline 87regal  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melo theory View Post
So, do you want to just run these full range without a sub?
And use a high pass filter at 80 hz?
I think if you are going to go through the trouble of building a box, you should invest in a more capable driver.
I was thinking either a steep highpass filter about 100hz, and/or a notch filter at 80hz. I'm new to passive crossover design so forgive me if I've got it all wrong.
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Old 16th September 2012, 09:21 PM   #5
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You're on the right lines, but: if you want passive, 100Hz is rather impractical. The values required for the components are very large, particularly for a high acoustical order slope and that means a lot of money, and potentially big insertion losses.
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Old 16th September 2012, 09:39 PM   #6
87regal is offline 87regal  United States
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Ok that makes sense. Looks like I will have to pass on that BS3 design.

If I did go with that fostex would it need a crossover or could it just roll off naturally?

Is there a difference between FF85wK and FF85wKeN?

Not a bad price: Madisound Speaker Store
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Old 16th September 2012, 09:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87regal View Post
I was thinking either a steep highpass filter about 100hz, and/or a notch filter at 80hz. I'm new to passive crossover design so forgive me if I've got it all wrong.
So, are you going to use a sub?
If you high pass this at 100 hz, it will sound pretty anemic.
You could save money on the passive components and just get a more capable driver. Then run it open, let the sealed enclosure provide the high pass.
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Old 16th September 2012, 09:50 PM   #8
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"This project is for a bedroom TV to be used at night, so output and low extension are not needed."

In a small sealed box, meeting the above criteria is easy. You do not need to do anything, most likely. The LF power handling should be more than sufficient even given the B3's well known THD issues at moderate excursions. Problems appear early in wide range, room filling SPL's but your application may well be fine.

My 2c.

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Old 16th September 2012, 09:50 PM   #9
87regal is offline 87regal  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melo theory View Post
So, are you going to use a sub?
If you high pass this at 100 hz, it will sound pretty anemic.
You could save money on the passive components and just get a more capable driver. Then run it open, let the sealed enclosure provide the high pass.
I'd rather not use a sub because I plan on using something like this: Dayton Audio DTA-1 Class T Digital AC/DC Amplifier 15 Watts Per Channel - Parts Express 300-380

Unless I can find something similar with a built in sub channel.

I think you're right, I just need to find the perfect driver.
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Old 16th September 2012, 10:02 PM   #10
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Your better off getting this one.
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Class-T Digital Amplifier 50 WPC Provides Power To Computer Speakers, Bookshelf Speakers, Headphones, And More! 300-383
Lower distortion, headphone out.
More power.
You might be building something for your bedroom right now but, why not make something really nice for future uses?
I mean, your going to put a lot of effort into the build, so spend little more and you wont outgrow it.
I suggest an alpair driver, they have low distortion and healthy excursion.
Here, this is a nice driver.
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...-4-full-range/
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Last edited by Melo theory; 16th September 2012 at 10:22 PM.
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