Hi, I would like to build a 2.1 system, i already bought 2 TB W3-881SI 3" and a Aura NS6-255-8A 6"
2x TB W3-881SI 3" for de L/R
Aura NS6-255-8A 6" for woofer.
so, my questions:
Can i design the speakers for the L/R work more on mid and high and left the low for woofer or is best to do this with crossovers?
Obs: i'm think on bookshelf or Tabaq besaed project.
or This
http://gonecatfishin.net/Enda.pdf
2x TB W3-881SI 3" for de L/R
Aura NS6-255-8A 6" for woofer.
so, my questions:
Can i design the speakers for the L/R work more on mid and high and left the low for woofer or is best to do this with crossovers?
Obs: i'm think on bookshelf or Tabaq besaed project.
or This
http://gonecatfishin.net/Enda.pdf
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I also have the same combo and want to build 2.1 system ("enda"). Can someone provide a cabinet size for Aura as a subwoofer?.
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Sensitivity 91 dB 1W/1m
Voice Coil Diameter 1"
THIELE-SMALL PARAMETERS
Resonant Frequency (Fs) 55 Hz
DC Resistance (Re) 6 ohms
Mechanical Q (Qms) 10.50
Electromagnetic Q (Qes) 0.58
Total Q (Qts) 0.55
Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas) 0.58 ft.³
Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms) 0.90 mm/N
BL Product (BL) 6.10 Tm
Diaphragm Mass Inc. Airload (Mms) 9.30g
Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax) 3.9 mm
Surface Area of Cone (Sd) 126 cm²
Aura NS6-255-8A 6" Paper Cone Neodymium Magnet Woofer 299-030
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I will be using the sub on a similar space as the satellite so localization should not be a major issue.
gychang
I've used the TB W3-881SI and to dolphin, you gotta be crazy thinking this needs a tweeter!! First time I heard it I couldn't believe how extended the top end was. No bass though. Measurements confirmed what I was hearing to.
Here's my thread and thoughts on using this driver with woofer support: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/225714-wall-fast-really-rocks.html
It really needs to be crossed around 200hz as a minimum to have any clean output beyond casual listening. Even with my relatively strong 24db/oct high pass at 300hz it'll complain at times. Does really well though. I really like this little thing.
I think 1khz it to high and you won't need 2 of them per channel. One is fine. I'd shoot for 500hz if going passive. I worked one up for my setup since I was tired of all the added wiring of my active cross over. I never got to really try it out properly though cause I had to parallel caps and series inductors like crazy to make the part sizes I needed.
Here's my thread and thoughts on using this driver with woofer support: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/225714-wall-fast-really-rocks.html
It really needs to be crossed around 200hz as a minimum to have any clean output beyond casual listening. Even with my relatively strong 24db/oct high pass at 300hz it'll complain at times. Does really well though. I really like this little thing.
I think 1khz it to high and you won't need 2 of them per channel. One is fine. I'd shoot for 500hz if going passive. I worked one up for my setup since I was tired of all the added wiring of my active cross over. I never got to really try it out properly though cause I had to parallel caps and series inductors like crazy to make the part sizes I needed.
Indeed, dolphin might be losing his/her marbles. The high end is very extended on the W3-881SI.
Where you put the crossover point depends a lot on what your SPL requirements are. My experience with the W3-881SI is quite different from tuxedocivic's because mine are used in a bedroom system for movies/TV and light music. I don't have mine high-passed at all and they do very well even at SPLs in the 80-83dB range without sounding stressed. The excursion limit is well beyond what is stated in the specs, IMO.
On the other hand, if you are going for 2.1 and/or you want to be able to crank it, then tuxedocivic's approach is certainly the way to go.
If you want to hear what the W3-881SI can do on their own, in an MLTL, check out nanoTower Part II - Tang Band W3-881SI - YouTube
Make sure you listen on a system with speakers at least as good as those, to get a proper impression of how much bass the little buggers can produce (which is a lot more than "no bass", IMO).
Where you put the crossover point depends a lot on what your SPL requirements are. My experience with the W3-881SI is quite different from tuxedocivic's because mine are used in a bedroom system for movies/TV and light music. I don't have mine high-passed at all and they do very well even at SPLs in the 80-83dB range without sounding stressed. The excursion limit is well beyond what is stated in the specs, IMO.
On the other hand, if you are going for 2.1 and/or you want to be able to crank it, then tuxedocivic's approach is certainly the way to go.
If you want to hear what the W3-881SI can do on their own, in an MLTL, check out nanoTower Part II - Tang Band W3-881SI - YouTube
Make sure you listen on a system with speakers at least as good as those, to get a proper impression of how much bass the little buggers can produce (which is a lot more than "no bass", IMO).
Countertop, as in "kitchen"? Perhaps you don't need the ns6 at all in that situation. The W3-881SI (in a good encosure) will provide very decent bass at moderate SPLs (kitchen volume).
Perhaps you want to really thump your kitchen, though...
Reading the user reviews at parts express the Aura woofer seems to be a little thin sounding, i.e. not so good for bass. It will be much better than the TB and it also has great mids.
The TB is very good from 500-7.000Hz acceptable from 7.000 up and a little limited from 500 down to approximately 150Hz with absolutely nothing happening below that*. (I am listening to them right now in a card box where they break in)
I would cross them (2 pairs and not 2.1) at around 700Hz 1st order with overlap for BSC.
For low bass they will still need a sub.
* In a proper enclosure they will probably have some output below that though.
The TB is very good from 500-7.000Hz acceptable from 7.000 up and a little limited from 500 down to approximately 150Hz with absolutely nothing happening below that*. (I am listening to them right now in a card box where they break in)
I would cross them (2 pairs and not 2.1) at around 700Hz 1st order with overlap for BSC.
For low bass they will still need a sub.
* In a proper enclosure they will probably have some output below that though.
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Not probably, for sure. Down to 40Hz or lower if moderate SPL is sufficient and room gain is taken into consideration. Watch the video.
The low end roll-off on these speakers is very gradual, down only 15 db at 45Hz for example, so pulling good bass out of them with a proper cabinet is not rocket science.
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Or if it makes it easier, make the ns6 rear firing. How are you gonna do the cross over and such?
cogitech, You could tune a 15L box to 42 hz and have bass down to 42hz, but it'll have a major saddle around 60hz and a big peak at 42hz. If you have a room mode around 60hz, I don't doubt you enjoy the bass from these. But these don't make good bass. At 80db with some luck in your room, you've got yourself a nice bedroom set you're happy with. Myself, I put them in a 5L box tuned to 60hz and my wife said "oh I want those for the living room cause they're cute". I said, "are you sure, listen to the bass before you take them". I then played them at about 70db and she laughed at them. Said no thank you and then stole my older sealed EL70s and asked me to make a little sub to go with them.
Most people are not going to enjoy the bass from these. Myself, not even at 80db. I've tried it. They sound like mud. These are mid-tweeters for 99% of people.
Most people are not going to enjoy the bass from these. Myself, not even at 80db. I've tried it. They sound like mud. These are mid-tweeters for 99% of people.
If you are taking plain BR boxes and sealed boxes, then yes.
If you put them in a TL, they can push the bass very well and there is no saddle to speak of as far as I can tell. The caveat is moderate SPL, and I would be willing to bet that 99% of people enjoy casual listening below 80 dB SPL, which these speakers can do easily from 40Hz up to 20k.
Several people have built those nanoTowers now and every one of them have been completely blown away by the bass. They are not, however, cranking the volume. Without hearing the microTowers, I don't think there is any reliable way for you to pass judgement on them. I built them and I can say without a doubt that they do not need any bass assistance. Others who have built them agree wholeheartedly.
It doesn't surprise me that people who have put them in 5L sealed boxes, or cardboard boxes for that matter, do not agree. That's obvious.
Just for giggles, I will get HolmImpulse going this weekend and hook the nanoTowers up to my main system, run a graph, then compare the response to my dual-EL70 microTowers. That'll give you something to at least visually compare. I'll have the SPL meter running as well.
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Posted, sealed, TL, horn, doesn't matter. To make bass you need to move air. Ports (horn and TL included) can move air while the driver does less, but its still has to excite the port. I think you're hearing the room which could behave the exact opposite for someone else, or harmonic distortion. In the bass region harmonic distortion often sounds like full bass and is pleasing, but isn't real bass. Our minds fill in the bottom. It's how we create bass in our mind when listening to music while on hold on the phone.
Please do measure it. Please measure it properly with nearfield techniques. I'm pretty sure I've seen you measure the room before I think.
Please do measure it. Please measure it properly with nearfield techniques. I'm pretty sure I've seen you measure the room before I think.
Well Im still pretty new to this. Done a couple other peoples designs but still trying to learn x-overs. Any help there would be great. Thinking of powering with a 25 watt t-amp board internally mounted.
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