Hi all,
newbie here! Very interesting site although most of it goes straight over my head, hoping to learn a lot while I'm here.
I recently bought those speakers (is that still the right term?) without actually knowing much about them, I was more after the Subwoofer that came with it.
But I'm very keen to start using them and set up my own listening room.
At the moment I have some 'vintage' B&W CM1 & CM2's hooked up to a Marantz amp that plays my records on a Pro-ject RPM SB6.1.
Am I assuming right that it's probably best not to hook up the new speakers to the Marantz (which is 80W)?
What amp would be recommended on a tight budget?
(I already have to sell some stuff to pay for the speakers and sub
Thanks in advance,
Tias.
newbie here! Very interesting site although most of it goes straight over my head, hoping to learn a lot while I'm here.
I recently bought those speakers (is that still the right term?) without actually knowing much about them, I was more after the Subwoofer that came with it.
But I'm very keen to start using them and set up my own listening room.
At the moment I have some 'vintage' B&W CM1 & CM2's hooked up to a Marantz amp that plays my records on a Pro-ject RPM SB6.1.
Am I assuming right that it's probably best not to hook up the new speakers to the Marantz (which is 80W)?
What amp would be recommended on a tight budget?
(I already have to sell some stuff to pay for the speakers and sub
Thanks in advance,
Tias.
Pictures?
How big a room?
Typicallywell matched with small SE amps. On a tight budget a SS or tube (EL84/6V6/ECL82/ECL86) single-ended amp is an ideal match if you can live with 2-5W. On a real tight budget some of the Class T amps are suitable.
The SS are invariably diy, lots of diy tube amps, and some buyable -- like this miniwatt N3 - Amplifiers. Class D are typically install a working board in a box diy or just buy one.
Lots & lots of info in the amp forums
http://www.miniwatt.com.hk/amplifiers/miniwatt-n3.html
Some Class-T examples classa t amplifier - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free - 106
You could be very surprised by the speakers
dave
How big a room?
Typicallywell matched with small SE amps. On a tight budget a SS or tube (EL84/6V6/ECL82/ECL86) single-ended amp is an ideal match if you can live with 2-5W. On a real tight budget some of the Class T amps are suitable.
The SS are invariably diy, lots of diy tube amps, and some buyable -- like this miniwatt N3 - Amplifiers. Class D are typically install a working board in a box diy or just buy one.
Lots & lots of info in the amp forums
http://www.miniwatt.com.hk/amplifiers/miniwatt-n3.html
Some Class-T examples classa t amplifier - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free - 106
You could be very surprised by the speakers
dave
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the reply!
Wow, I had to google a lot of terms there.
I would love to go with a tube amp, mainly because people always rave about them, not to mention they look amazing.
But I have to admit I've never heard one in action. would love to hear it on a system next to a 'normal' system to hear the difference. Will have to drop into some of my local shops to have a chat and a listen. Although I'd like to learn more about it before going in
When you say DIY, how far does that go? Honestly, I'm not good at diy but keen to learn, but would rather not destroy the first amp I buy. The missus would not be impressed and have a good laugh.
Those Miniwatt amps look nice, price-wise as well. will they be powerful enough for these speakers? Meaning, what would the limitations be and/or differences with a more powerful amp?
Thanks for your help!
Tias
Thanks for the reply!
Wow, I had to google a lot of terms there.
I would love to go with a tube amp, mainly because people always rave about them, not to mention they look amazing.
But I have to admit I've never heard one in action. would love to hear it on a system next to a 'normal' system to hear the difference. Will have to drop into some of my local shops to have a chat and a listen. Although I'd like to learn more about it before going in
When you say DIY, how far does that go? Honestly, I'm not good at diy but keen to learn, but would rather not destroy the first amp I buy. The missus would not be impressed and have a good laugh.
Those Miniwatt amps look nice, price-wise as well. will they be powerful enough for these speakers? Meaning, what would the limitations be and/or differences with a more powerful amp?
Thanks for your help!
Tias
As far as you want to go... little to lots. Chinese made pre-built kits (just waiting for you so go under the hood) to built from scratch. Go cruising in the forums for some ideas.
A small Firstwatt, F2 or F2J (5W?, 1 of the Burning Amps is probably real similar) or a 2A3 (3.5W) or 2A3 PP (8-12w) would be match made in heaven The small SE amps have very few parts so are a good starter.
unless you play real loud or have a very large room (even then, our 3.9w RH84 does pretty good with other FE126 horns).
dave
Thanks guys for the response.
Been a great help!
For now I think I will have to go with something that is already built because I really don't want to mess it up, that and so I actually have something to play music on while I do my own diy.
One more question, i have read that it is recommended to use these speakers with a sub because they can lack in the lower range.
Do any of these amps accomodate for a sub?
Cheers,
Ts
Been a great help!
For now I think I will have to go with something that is already built because I really don't want to mess it up, that and so I actually have something to play music on while I do my own diy.
One more question, i have read that it is recommended to use these speakers with a sub because they can lack in the lower range.
Do any of these amps accomodate for a sub?
Cheers,
Ts
Tias,
The Fostex FE126E is a high efficiency speaker - it will work nicely with the low watt tube amps that Dave and others have recommended.
On the other hand, sub-woofers typically require amps with much more wattage - you will need a solid state amp here. BTW, the sub-woofer you have got, does it have an amp? A lot of subs are "active" and come with an amplifier and some controls (volume, bass level, cross over frequency etc.).
I've used the Mini-watt N3 - a nice sounding unit in a compact package - and no build required.
The Fostex FE126E is a high efficiency speaker - it will work nicely with the low watt tube amps that Dave and others have recommended.
On the other hand, sub-woofers typically require amps with much more wattage - you will need a solid state amp here. BTW, the sub-woofer you have got, does it have an amp? A lot of subs are "active" and come with an amplifier and some controls (volume, bass level, cross over frequency etc.).
I've used the Mini-watt N3 - a nice sounding unit in a compact package - and no build required.
Hey Zman,
Looked into the amps, they all look pretty sweet, but yes, no build will be best for the beginning.
Somebody here in NZ suggested the Yarland FV-34C-IV which at $900NZ is a good price.
Yes, the sub is active, it's a Velodyne CHT12.
Do these valve amps come with a sub connection or does that need to be connected a different way?
Cheers,
Ts.
Looked into the amps, they all look pretty sweet, but yes, no build will be best for the beginning.
Somebody here in NZ suggested the Yarland FV-34C-IV which at $900NZ is a good price.
Yes, the sub is active, it's a Velodyne CHT12.
Do these valve amps come with a sub connection or does that need to be connected a different way?
Cheers,
Ts.
Do you guys get taxed to death? I know that shipping won't be cheap.
$900 NZD ~ $730 Yarland FV-34C-IV-EU Integrated Amplifier | USA Hi-Fi
I've actually heard one of these. Not a bad little amp PP EL84 amp. One of those Chinese pre-built kits i mentioned.
As to the sub, you'd need to do some mods to get a woofer out, likely best to just run the woofer REL-style, the velodyne have speaker level inputs?
dave
$900 NZD ~ $730 Yarland FV-34C-IV-EU Integrated Amplifier | USA Hi-Fi
I've actually heard one of these. Not a bad little amp PP EL84 amp. One of those Chinese pre-built kits i mentioned.
As to the sub, you'd need to do some mods to get a woofer out, likely best to just run the woofer REL-style, the velodyne have speaker level inputs?
dave
Attachments
We are at the end of the world here
Most high end electronics are more expensive here. But otherwise it's a great country Actually not sure yet which Velodyne it is, picking it up on Saturday. But it is a CHT12.
Would you mind explaining what REL style means? I know of the brand but not about the way they do things.
Cheers,
Tias
We are at the end of the world here
well, every spot is an antipode to somewhere - depending where exactly you're at in NZ, that'd be approx region of Spain/France/Portugal, or surrounding ocean.
judging by the current economic situation in 2 of those, you could well be better off where you are
I have a daughter living in Bermuda, they same much the same thing about most of their imported goods (which is pretty much everything) , as the price of admission to "paradise" (of course we feel the same way about our little "island republic")Most high end electronics are more expensive here. But otherwise it's a great country
from REL website:
Subwoofer Manufacturer, Quality | Technology | REL Acoustics
Short version: Let the sats run free, bring the sub in below their natural roll off.
dave
Nothing revolutionary about that part really - most plate style sub amps I've seen / used allow for that, as well as most newer models have a LFE input that bypasses the internal LP XO and relies on the surround processor's bass management for the .1 (or .2?) input
What does appear to be somewhat different (unique?)on the 2 or 3 current models I looked at on the REL website is the inclusion of balanced XLR and Speakon connections among the range of lo and hi level inputs. Magical? maybe not - but certainly very flexible, and the proprietary high level input cables are supplied, so there's no stumbling around looking for the right adapter (just don't loose the 4 conductor Speakon cable)
I've never heard any of these, or Velodynes for that matter and I'm sure both brand's reputations are well deserved.
Yes Chris, no complaints for where I live. Actually moved here 7 years ago from Belgium. So I know well how it is in Europe. Better in NZ imo.
I understood what you said Dave.
But I have no idea what it all means what you said Chris.
So much to learn, but it's about time I learned more than just which brands make good stuff.
Thanks again, I'll start googling those terms.
Ts
I understood what you said Dave.
But I have no idea what it all means what you said Chris.
So much to learn, but it's about time I learned more than just which brands make good stuff.
Thanks again, I'll start googling those terms.
Ts
If you mean reply #17 - that was in reference to the REL products having a wider range of input connections than are typically found on most "plate amps" used in self contained sub woofers. Most amps have either 5-way binding posts or spring terminals for the high ( speaker)-level inputs - the RELS use a 4 conductor Speakon jack ( a great connector, not used widely enough ) and come with the required cable/connector.
Model T7:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Some also include XLR (balanced line) inputs, as well as feed-throughs for both the line and speaker levels connections.
take your time, thanks to the internet, DIY is an open book test - and you're the adjudicator
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