Driver reccomendations for a new full-range build.

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I mean the drivers need modification.
I don't know why but I find them bland and uninvolving.
I wish I knew what to do with them, maybe a phase plug, or enabl.
They are not harsh or fatiguing, they just sound average to me.
They do bass and lower midrange quite nicely, but the mid to treble sounds average
 
I wouldn't use the FE206En, there are more refined choices available.
The FF225WK is interesting, it does not need a subwoofer, rather it can use a helper tweeter crossed high. Worth experimenting with. I listened to it without an extra tweeter and it offered a good, balanced sound, but lacking sparkle in the highs.
 
2nd that. If you go for the 8" TangBand consider relieving the top-end with a tweeter.

If you're going to use a sub consider the 3" W3-1878 which can be crossed quite low (60-80 depending on desired SPL). There are many good 3" FRs that will integrate nicely with a sub.

3s are generally less beamy than 4 or 5 inchers but they go deep enough in the right enclosure to be sub-friendly. In addition they often sound sweet all the way up.

3 + Sub or 8 (or bigger) + tweeter is what I'd build. 8+Sub doesn't quite make sense. Check out Bob Brines' enclosures if you are looking for a good all-round speaker based on the 8in premium TBs (1772 / 1808)

Have you heard the 8" Tang Bands? The specs on the Tang Band W8-1808 8" doesn't look like it would need a tweeter.
 
As my choice of the Fostex 125's turns out to have been about the worst possible choice, and I have finished up my last two two-way projects, I am willing to take one more shot at a wide range if I can see any evidence it is possible.

Limit of half a cubic foot for the cabinet.
Fs down to 80 Hz. 60 is probably dreaming if I expect treble.
Real treble up to at least 12K, or it just does not count. Not breakup filling the balance. Yes, I can still hear over 18K.
Efficiency is not an issue.
I have no qualms with either passive or active networks.

The Ailpair 7 looks like one to look at. FW108 maybe? One of the TB units? I just don't see any driver I can believe can be clean across more than two decades. Should I try to DIY a Walsh?

Non, does this match what you had in mind? I have some ideas on ultra low diffraction cabinets I want to share. Might be a match.
 
frugal-phile™
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As my choice of the Fostex 125's turns out to have been about the worst possible choice

For you. You have been quite vocal about your dislike. Many more people have found it well to their liking (much like my dislike of the JX92 is balanced by many more people finding it nice). I'm listening to a set now, and don't find them objectionable, althou i do prefer A7x and EL70 in the same size range.

I just don't see any driver I can believe can be clean across more than two decades.

There are FRs capable of near 9 octaves, with limits to loudness & dynamics (the guys on the back deck listening to DSOTM on Sat nite at diyFEST 2 WEs ago might have something to say about those limits being smaller than expected)

dave
 
There are FRs capable of near 9 octaves, with limits to loudness & dynamics (the guys on the back deck listening to DSOTM on Sat nite at diyFEST 2 WEs ago might have something to say about those limits being smaller than expected)

dave

DSOTM is still pretty simple music. Put on some more complex music and the flaws of a full-range driver becomes clearly audible.

To give some examples... Meshuggah, Raised Fist, In Flames, Hans Zimmer, Rammstein and similar...
 
Have you heard the 8" Tang Bands? The specs on the Tang Band W8-1808 8" doesn't look like it would need a tweeter.


Unfortunately I haven't had the chance yet, but a very experienced speaker builder I trust have experimented with the 1808 and 1772 in everything from OBs to MLTLs. He described the top-end as "untidy" and lacking "sparkle". This was compared to the smaller TBs. He's experimented with cutting away the whizzer as well. This tidied up the top but with an earlier roll-off. He added that a tweeter coupled with the 8" could make a great speaker.

I went for the 4" and a box designed by this guy. It sounded very full in his test-room but he noted that he prefers the character of the 3". This requires a sub if you want to listen to rock or such at fun levels. The 5" blew me away until I got up and noticed the incredibly tight sweet spot.

The MA drivers discussed here are also great FRs. They are shallower than the TBs, so they are less beamy and still manage to maintain top-end "sparkle".

You'll have to decide for yourself, but for me a big FR (8" up) with tweeter or a smaller with sub is the way to go. It's all about preferences. If you don't need to have the sparkly top, try the 8" + sub. ;)
 
DSOTM is still pretty simple music. Put on some more complex music and the flaws of a full-range driver becomes clearly audible.

To give some examples... Meshuggah, Raised Fist, In Flames, Hans Zimmer, Rammstein and similar...

Rullknufs,

The "distortion" in a lot of metal music sounds more prominent with most of the FR drivers and designs I have tried out. Also the less slam and weight in 80-200 Hz range vs having dedicated woofer(s) probably is not ideal either.

BTW, with metal and some of the bands you mentioned - are we talking about the flaws of the driver or the flaws in the music/recordings (compression, distortion) :D?
 
@ TVR,

I can't remember having this much fun for a $100, built a zillion boxes for the Fostex 125, this was the pair without the dowel brace. The last pair with the dowel brace do seem to sound a little better/deeper. Point is ~ I like they way they sound :D

Ordered a pair of the TB W5 1611's - same price - same size. Going to build 19liter boxes, which seems HUGE. It will be a good test: TB W5 vs. the 125s

I might build TWO sets of boxes for the TB... (1) MDF/Medex (2) Plywood :eek:

TVR, stop by, bring your favorite CDs

As my choice of the Fostex 125's turns out to have been about the worst possible choice, and I have finished up my last two two-way projects, I am willing to take one more shot at a wide range if I can see any evidence it is possible.

Limit of half a cubic foot for the cabinet.
Fs down to 80 Hz. 60 is probably dreaming if I expect treble.
Real treble up to at least 12K, or it just does not count. Not breakup filling the balance. Yes, I can still hear over 18K.
Efficiency is not an issue.
I have no qualms with either passive or active networks.

The Ailpair 7 looks like one to look at. FW108 maybe? One of the TB units? I just don't see any driver I can believe can be clean across more than two decades. Should I try to DIY a Walsh?

Non, does this match what you had in mind? I have some ideas on ultra low diffraction cabinets I want to share. Might be a match.
 

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Rullknufs,

The "distortion" in a lot of metal music sounds more prominent with most of the FR drivers and designs I have tried out. Also the less slam and weight in 80-200 Hz range vs having dedicated woofer(s) probably is not ideal either.

BTW, with metal and some of the bands you mentioned - are we talking about the flaws of the driver or the flaws in the music/recordings (compression, distortion) :D?

Well, the recordings are far from perfect but they can sound pretty good on the right speakers.

Five minutes of that stuff and all us "old guys" would be headin' for the door.:D

jeff

Hehe ;)
 
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