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Old 10th September 2012, 04:13 AM   #31
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Location: Mar del Plata, a BIG seasonal getaway city, can see the Ocean from our residence.
You do need to make as close a calculation as possible to determine your available volume. Perhaps you could fill the sphere with some sort of dry media, Freeze died peas, wood shavings or..??? Craft a box at 100mm by 100mm, with an open top & see how high up it gets..??? A flat circular baffle covering the "opening"....If ported, I would opt for a port pointing down, slightly off from 90 degrees. And yes you need to get it sealed as best possible, any leakage variations will throw off your calculations.
Just throwing out some ideas here.

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Last edited by Richard Ellis; 10th September 2012 at 04:15 AM. Reason: additional thoughts
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Old 10th September 2012, 03:23 PM   #32
mda1 is offline mda1  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Ellis View Post
You do need to make as close a calculation as possible to determine your available volume. Perhaps you could fill the sphere with some sort of dry media, Freeze died peas, wood shavings or..??? Craft a box at 100mm by 100mm, with an open top & see how high up it gets..??? A flat circular baffle covering the "opening"....If ported, I would opt for a port pointing down, slightly off from 90 degrees. And yes you need to get it sealed as best possible, any leakage variations will throw off your calculations.
Just throwing out some ideas here.

__________________________________________________ _Rick.......
To do the volume measurement I used water. And i repeated it 4 times and took the average value. So I am quite certain about the 3.3 liters (without driver or BR port). My error should be less than 0.1 l. After all, i'm a physicist working at a company whose motto is 'measurement systems'...

The seal is already provided by the enclosure used, as long as I cut my baffle out in the right size.

I think I'll start with a sealed enclosure, then vent it a bit by putting washers underneath the screws of the driver (0.5mm or so), and then port the baffles. this way with one piece of woodwork I can try several things proposed here. Once I'm happy, I'll leave it as is.

Last edited by mda1; 10th September 2012 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 11th September 2012, 06:13 PM   #33
mda1 is offline mda1  Netherlands
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Ok. The fostex are ordered. I bought some MDF and some pipe with and inner diameter of 25mm.

In the meantime reading up more on speaker building, and of course more question arise. For example: should I chamfer the inside of the baffle where I will mount the driver?

And the speakers were stuffed with soft material when I took them apart. I was planning on putting the same stuffing back in. Is that a good choice?

And should I countersink the driver?

Last edited by mda1; 11th September 2012 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 11th September 2012, 06:41 PM   #34
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mda1 View Post
Ok. The fostex are ordered. I bought some MDF and some pipe with and inner diameter of 25mm.

In the meantime reading up more on speaker building, and of course more question arise. For example: should I chamfer the inside of the baffle where I will mount the driver?
IMO always an excellent idea on smaller fullrangers such as the 85s, you do need to be careful to retain enough material core for mounting screws ( I find #5 x 5/8 or even 1/2" is more than adequate for these little guys)

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And the speakers were stuffed with soft material when I took them apart. I was planning on putting the same stuffing back in. Is that a good choice?
time will tell how much and type will give best results - I'd opt for less to start with

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And should I countersink the driver?
the mounting flange on these is thin enough and gently radiused that countersinking is likely far less critical than with say a Alpair6, but it can make for a tasty project - it will be a test of either your freehanding or pattern making skills
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