Full Range driver/enclosure - Goldwood 1858 H-Frames - diyAudio
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Old 29th August 2012, 04:01 AM   #1
mortron is offline mortron  Canada
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Default Full Range driver/enclosure - Goldwood 1858 H-Frames

I am looking to build a pair of Goldwood 1858 woofers into H Frames used in the Martin King two way design. I will actively crossover the units, and am planning on running the woofers with a 200w SS amp, the full range drivers with a low powered tube amp, in the 5-10 watt range. Would this allow me to use higher sensitivity full range drivers? Any suggestions on drivers and box designs? Ideally I would like to keep the driver cost under $50 per side for the full rangers. I hope I am not too confusing. Just kicking Ideas around.
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Old 29th August 2012, 04:52 PM   #2
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You mean like these?

Click the image to open in full size.

After you appy OB compensation to the 1858's, their effective SPL is in the 85dB range --yes, you really have to to a treble shelf, not a bass boost. I am running mine off of a Dayton DTA-100, which is ~ 30w/ch@8Ω. I get ~95dB at 2.5m full out. Your 100w/ch should get you ~100dB. The Alpair 7.3's shown are running off of a Topping TP-60 which is about the same power as the Dayton (Same chip?) so I have pretty well balanced amps/speakers. You are going to need significantly more efficient full-rangers if you want to run the Goldwood's flat out.

Bob
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Old 29th August 2012, 05:13 PM   #3
rongon is offline rongon  United States
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Hey Bob, pardon the hijack, but what crossovers are you using between the Alpair 7.3 and the big Goldwood woofers? Thanks.
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Old 29th August 2012, 06:14 PM   #4
mortron is offline mortron  Canada
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Bob, thats what I was picturing in my head... how do they sound? Have you tried those drivers in open baffle as well?

My amp is 200w per channel... to be honest, i havent decided what to use as a second amp, as I haven't got one yet, so i am flexible. My deal is I'd like to try something like what you have, but the 1858 may ultimately end up mated to Manepan MG1b's.
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Old 29th August 2012, 06:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongon View Post
Hey Bob, pardon the hijack, but what crossovers are you using between the Alpair 7.3 and the big Goldwood woofers? Thanks.
I'm using a miniDSP to do the XO and contouring.

Bob
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Old 29th August 2012, 07:04 PM   #6
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by Bob Brines View Post
I'm using a miniDSP to do the XO and contouring.

Bob
pardon the further question, which you may have already answered, but exactly which modules and plug-ins would you consider minimum for a simple 2-way such as this example?
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Old 29th August 2012, 07:08 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mortron View Post
Bob, thats what I was picturing in my head... how do they sound?
They sound nice and full. Good to the mid 20's in-room. Be careful about bottoming them out -- they are NOT HT subs.

Quote:
Have you tried those drivers in open baffle as well?
I have. I had the A7.3's on smaller than optimal OB's that forced the XO to 350Hz which is really too high for the 1858's. I will not pursue this, though. 1) I don't particularly like the comes from everywhere ambiance that is the main draw for OB's in the first place and 2) the sheer size of a proper OB is not physically doable in my circumstances. And, heretic that I am, I also prefer the sound of a good T-amp to tubes. But I digress....

I also note in your OP that you want to keep costs below $50 a side for the tops. Please make that $100. The difference between say CHR-70's and Alpair 7.3 is more than worth the money.

Bob
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Old 29th August 2012, 07:30 PM   #8
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by Bob Brines View Post
They sound nice and full. Good to the mid 20's in-room. Be careful about bottoming them out -- they are NOT HT subs.



I have. I had the A7.3's on smaller than optimal OB's that forced the XO to 350Hz which is really too high for the 1858's. I will not pursue this, though. 1) I don't particularly like the comes from everywhere ambiance that is the main draw for OB's in the first place and 2) the sheer size of a proper OB is not physically doable in my circumstances. And, heretic that I am, I also prefer the sound of a good T-amp to tubes. But I digress....

I also note in your OP that you want to keep costs below $50 a side for the tops. Please make that $100. The difference between say CHR-70's and Alpair 7.3 is more than worth the money.


Bob

I couldn't agree more Bob, but what was interesting over the past weekend's GTG at Dave's was that several folks commented on the "tinny" sound of the A7 vs EL70s, and for that matter the new CSS VRW126/LD25X combo (which weigh in at $370 for a TM set, before XO and enclosures) . The 7s maybe not as full bodied as either of those or the Alpair10s for that matter in the bottom end, but "tinny" is definitely not how I'd describe them (7s).

The amps in question for this system ranged from a 2A3 SE to Rene Jaeger's DHT/MOS and J-Fet hybrids. If he ever offers hand-built or the plans for these, and your wallet permits, take a serious look - just be prepared to budget big time for iron and heatsinking.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by chrisb; 29th August 2012 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 29th August 2012, 07:47 PM   #9
mortron is offline mortron  Canada
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That's what i was thinking Bob, the size and lack of oomph I am missing when I am in panels, and think I may be a cone speaker in a box guy currently, but love open sound. Would you say they fill out nicely? As well, i have eyed some TAmps built and kits online, as well as class d amps, and considered them all, is there one you may suggest in this application? I could see going more expensive on drivers. Under $100 would you say the 7's are best value in this config?
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Old 29th August 2012, 10:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
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....Would you say they fill out nicely?
Not sure what you mean, but the H-frames fill out the 30-60Hz octave very nicely in my 15'x25' room. Surprisingly, they don't produce a lot of "slam",but then I probably don't crank it up enough for "slam" and I don't listen to rock anyway.

Quote:
As well, i have eyed some TAmps built and kits online, as well as class d amps, and considered them all, is there one you may suggest in this application?
I really like the Topping TP-60. It doesn't have as much edge as other T-amps I have. Part of the reason is due the the transformer power supply -- two huge toroids -- rather than a SMPS. It is not cheap, though

Quote:
I could see going more expensive on drivers. Under $100 would you say the 7's are best value in this config?
At the moment, the A7.3's in my little TL's are the sweet spot. I haven't looked at the Fostex FF85WK, which is getting a lot of ink.

Bob
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