Add a Sub to my Saburos?

[doubtingthomas]

That sounds like a plan to me too, I drive my Vulcans with AN Conquest monoblocks and was now thinking a pair of subs driven by plate amps, Morel drivers don't seem to elicit praise, how about Peerless? Also a tip for a crossover would be of value. I've currently got my rather modest sub crossing over at 120hz and the driver/amp combination is doing well relieved of the LF demands.

[planet10]

Peerless seem to be very good for the money and well liked (i have 3 different sets i haven't finished evaluating yet). THe only issue i have with the Morel is that they seem poor bang for the buck.

dave

[Wha' DIYa know?]

Good ideas, Chris, and thanks for the link to a veritable library of information!

I guess if I'm going to try and enhance the Saburos, I ought to pic a design that goes really low, and one that has a cross over frequency that isn't too high, but aside from your concern about XO above 100Hz -- to avoid being able to locate it by sound alone -- are there any guide lines for a speaker like the Saburo? I was looking for the frequency response graph today, but the speaker's been updated, given another name, and there doesn't seem to be a freq. response curve for it . . .

@ Dave, Peerless was a driver brand mentioned by my pal. That's two positive reports now. Maybe I should go with that. They're not cheap, but this is n't project to be too cheap about anyway, since I'll have to buy everything anyway. No scrap wood laying around to do this super economically, so I may as well get good drivers from the outset.

[Wha' DIYa know?]

Oh, I forgot to comment on my amp power, Chris. Yes, it's a 32-ish watt Dynaco tube amp driving the Saburos.

[chris661]

Originally Posted by Wha' DIYa know?

I was looking for the frequency response graph today, but the speaker's been updated, given another name, and there doesn't seem to be a freq. response curve for it . . .

I've seen impedance curves that suggest the cone is loaded to ~50Hz.
In room, the f3 could be 40Hz, depending on room position etc.

There's no definite rule for choosing a crossover point, though - you might find there's phasing issues between the FR speakers and subs at 100Hz, and decide to move the crossover lower.
Without actually coming to listen, I can't tell you.

To make the experimentation easier, buy one of these. I've lived with mine for a while, and think its brilliant.
If you want really precise setting of crossovers, you'll need an AC voltmeter of some kind.

Originally Posted by doubtingthomas

That sounds like a plan to me too, I drive my Vulcans with AN Conquest monoblocks and was now thinking a pair of subs driven by plate amps, Morel drivers don't seem to elicit praise, how about Peerless? Also a tip for a crossover would be of value. I've currently got my rather modest sub crossing over at 120hz and the driver/amp combination is doing well relieved of the LF demands.

Peerless drivers are expensive to get over here, but their reputation is good. The SLS range might be worth a look as its has drivers a fraction of the price of the XXLS range.

Europe Audio • Our brands • Peerless

Chris

[Scottmoose]

Post 12 Chris.

Peerless units are generally good value for money, although again, I always suggest multiple subs whenever possible.

[Wha' DIYa know?]

Thanks to Chris and Scott for your latest comments above. I would be looking at a pair of subs, so would need 2 of those Behringer cross overs, or one that handles two subs. Looks like it only manages one.

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by Wha' DIYa know?

Thanks to Chris and Scott for your latest comments above. I would be looking at a pair of subs, so would need 2 of those Behringer cross overs, or one that handles two subs. Looks like it only manages one.

You might not necessarily need 2 crossovers - as in "stereo" subs - if I'm on the same track as Scott, the LP could be low enough that mixed mono would work fine, and if you'd like to HP the Sabs, that could be achieved with a simple passive HP at the amp driving them.

Multiple subs in this case most likely refers to the flexibility of placement to reduce room nodes and provide more even distribution of the longer wavelengths.

[planet10]

I'm with Chris here. Mono, simple PLLXO for the top (keep the signal to the FRs as pure as possible -- it is far to likely for something like the Beringher (typically as cheap as possible) to substract way more than it adds), and something steeper and active on the bottom.

email me, i have something here that may suit you perfectly for the 2nd half (the 1st half is dead easy).

dave

[chris661]

The Behringer crossover will go down to 44Hz in stereo mode. Methinks that's low enough.

Some good reading on PLLXOs here..
TLS.org | Passive Line-Level Crossover