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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: California
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Hi,
I'm new to diy audio and in my reading have found myself drawn to full range speakers in transmission line cabinets, but I've picked up a few hints (Bob Brines home page) that they may not be well suited to what I listen to: electronic/club DJs, pop/rock, jazz/blues - the club music being the concern. Will a sub-woofer address any shortcoming FR/TL may otherwise demonstrate w/ electronic content? (Is crossing at 40Hz to ensure the sub gets zero content above 80Hz (psycho-location threshhold) crazy?) My listening room is 11'x12' w/ a 9.5' ceiling. The clap test for room response has a bit of a ring to it, but I'm open to some acoustic treatment. My source will be my PC w/ deq/dxo either in software or hardware, I've got my eye on an AudioSector gain clone, and may add a tube buffer for flavor. Advice and useful links appreciated. Thanks, -Rene |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Hi Rene,
Yes, I would add a woofer to the mix and a high pass filter to the FR to protect it from low frequencies. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Brazil
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With this kind of repetitive music a RF driver will had a short life, you need a pro fullrange+Tweeter with a crossover.
Other option is a 15inches woofer and a FR, as the well know Alpha15A+Visaton B200 or other 8inches FR. A FR is not suited to bass under 100Hz, the Alpha15A above is cut at 270 - 300Hz and pass to the B200. Regards
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>Never go to a psychiatrist, adopt a cat or dog from the streets. On the streets pets live only two years average. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
- +2 to Cal's confirmation above - most of us "full-rangers" have dabbled with that approach, the key to our justification being that the XOs are low enough ( under 120Hz or so) that most of the lower midrange / upper mid-bass is still being handled by the wide-band driver; -the AudioSector is a wonderful sounding piece; - depending on your source and even more so the driver you decide on for the wide-band part of the system, you might not need any additional "flavoring" - to be completely honest, the only tube buffer "enhancer" I've heard so far was not much more than a distortion injection device - warm and fuzzy to be sure, but not clean or real - I'd far rather invest the extra in the real front end source / higher sampling rate player software or active line stage if deemed necessary to your application - the room is small enough that a well matched system with a single 4-5" full range driver per side should be quite adequate if Hi-Passed and supported by actively powered woofers (which might well be less than 15") Of course when you ask for advice on a forum such as this, don't be surprised if you get more opinions and recommendations than consensus - we all have our own biases, and current favorites. That said, I think any list of candidates for such an application should include the Alpair 7.3 and 10.2, and Fostex FF125 for the widebanders.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Crossing the sub at 40Hz is a bad idea: a FR driver won't go low enough to match up to it. IMHO, to get the best out of a FR driver, asking even 80Hz (to meet a sub) is too low for decent dynamics. Here's what I did: Fostex and Tang Band The concept is simple enough: using stereo woofers, you can cross over higher (I'm at 500Hz, which means baffle step compensation is usefully built in to the crossover) to give the FR driver a much easier time. The higher you take the crossover, the louder it'll go, but you've then got more problems getting the crossover exactly right so you can't hear it: the closer you get to the 1-5kHz range, the more difficult it gets - our ears are very sensitive to anomalies in that region. Lower down, its more difficult to detect: there's more margin for error. HTH Chris |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Rene,
Already a wealth of good advice from the folks. I have the ferrite version of the Tang Band sub drivers that Chris661 has. Along with a MA Alp 7.3 it worked like a charm in a bi-amped config. The Alpair 7.3 does a very good job in resolving detail, ambience, etc in electronica - along with great midrange, the top is very clear and extened. The subs were in simple 11"x11" ported cubes. The XO was set at 110 Hz using Foobar. I had 2 amps - Hypex UcD for the Alpair 7.3 and a Tripath amp for the TB subs. Alpair 7.3 with subwoofers did better than Alpir 12 with subwoofers - the air and detail of the Alp 7.3 in the P10 Mar-Ken 7.3 design was superior, integration with the 6.5 inch sub drivers was tighter. My room was ~250 sq with similar ceiling height. Didn't feel the need for more bass. A word on the amplification - the sub drivers will need watts to shine. First we fed it a 50 watt/channel Tripath - not good. Then we tried the 90 watt/channel at 4 ohms HifimeDIY T4 amp - the subs came alive. We used 2 subs - so bass localization was not an issue. We tried out stuff like Anjunadeep, Paul Oakenfold, John Digweed, BT - sounded real good to us.
Last edited by zman01; 17th July 2012 at 10:49 PM. |
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#7 |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Either try an Audio Nirvana Super 15, or possibly a nice 12" or 15" Coaxial from Radion, Beyma, PAudio etc or EVen AUdio Nirvana
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#8 |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2006
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If the music you like is similar to Jamiroquai: Travelling Without Moving. Then the Audio Nirvana 15 easily deals with that sought of music
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Melon Head,
OPs room is 11" x 12" - might be tricky to place 2 x15" there... how far from back and wall have you placed your OBs? |
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#10 |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2006
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My speakers sit anywhere between 40cm and 70cm from the back wall. My house is open plan, not sure what they might do in a room of that size, it could cause things to shake and vibrate I suppose
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