I have a pair of Alpair 10.2 I want to put into an old pair of B&W DM100 cabinets (about 8.5 liters each). The idea is to whip up a simple sealed cab so I can break in the drivers and get a listen to them before deciding whether I want to proceed down the speaker-building path.
I'll need to make new baffleboards, and for that I have some 3/4" MDF from the Agent Orange Home Store.
I just bought a trim router from the Harbor of Really Cheap Chinese Tools Store, with a Diablo panel pilot bit (1/4" shank, 3/4" depth). Also picked up four 18" clamps and wood glue.
I'm thinking of routing the mounting holes for the Alpair 10.2's and then front mounting the drivers on the baffle. Then get 1/8" ply of some kind (or maybe another sheet of MDF) and glue as a sandwich on to top of the 3/4" MDF, to make the bevel for flush-mounting the drivers. (I hope my description makes sense.)
I am a complete moron when it comes to woodworking. I have no experience whatsoever using a router, and I'm not sure where to begin. Is there a good book anyone can recommend that would guide a beginner in the use of a router to cut nice round holes, make proper bevels and chamfers, and so on?
Thanks for any advice you can send my way.
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I'll need to make new baffleboards, and for that I have some 3/4" MDF from the Agent Orange Home Store.
I just bought a trim router from the Harbor of Really Cheap Chinese Tools Store, with a Diablo panel pilot bit (1/4" shank, 3/4" depth). Also picked up four 18" clamps and wood glue.
I'm thinking of routing the mounting holes for the Alpair 10.2's and then front mounting the drivers on the baffle. Then get 1/8" ply of some kind (or maybe another sheet of MDF) and glue as a sandwich on to top of the 3/4" MDF, to make the bevel for flush-mounting the drivers. (I hope my description makes sense.)
I am a complete moron when it comes to woodworking. I have no experience whatsoever using a router, and I'm not sure where to begin. Is there a good book anyone can recommend that would guide a beginner in the use of a router to cut nice round holes, make proper bevels and chamfers, and so on?
Thanks for any advice you can send my way.
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You learn woodworking the same way you get to Carnegie Hall. Practice man, practice.
Go slow. Cut holes in a lot of scrap first. Never force a router. You will need some way to keep the router going in a circle. I made my own. Use hearing protection. Always use hearing protection. If you don't , then you will find the speakers from the big yellow overpriced store to be just fine.
If you search the WEB, I bet you can find some videos in using a router. They are actually one of the safer tools you can hurt yourself with.
4 clamps aren't enough. Good thing nothing more than rope and a stick makes great clamps for making boxes. Duct tape, bricks, lots of things are useful.
Go slow. Cut holes in a lot of scrap first. Never force a router. You will need some way to keep the router going in a circle. I made my own. Use hearing protection. Always use hearing protection. If you don't , then you will find the speakers from the big yellow overpriced store to be just fine.
If you search the WEB, I bet you can find some videos in using a router. They are actually one of the safer tools you can hurt yourself with.
4 clamps aren't enough. Good thing nothing more than rope and a stick makes great clamps for making boxes. Duct tape, bricks, lots of things are useful.
Get a decent router. The rim router isn't going to be enough.
Jasper jigs are indispensable for cutting holes but they dont fit all routers/
I've spent some time looking at web videos on how to use a router. To tell you the truth, I find it all a bit scary. I used to be much braver. I did make some baffle boards many years ago using a jigsaw. They did not turn out well.
I will only be cutting holes 5" or less in diameter. Maybe I should use 1/2" MDF for the baffle, and make a sandwich of two of them to make the (whats-it-called?) rabbet for flush-mounting the drivers into the baffle. That way I'd only have to cut 1/2" sheets instead of trying to cut 3/4" depth. That would be safer, right?
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I will only be cutting holes 5" or less in diameter. Maybe I should use 1/2" MDF for the baffle, and make a sandwich of two of them to make the (whats-it-called?) rabbet for flush-mounting the drivers into the baffle. That way I'd only have to cut 1/2" sheets instead of trying to cut 3/4" depth. That would be safer, right?
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My older hardbound copy has served me well: Amazon.com: Router Handbook: sears/craftsman: Basic and Advanced Router Techniques: Special Edition: Patrick Spielman: Books
GM
GM
Don't wimp out! The jasper jigs are good. The cheap router will be fine. If you wear it out, then buy a good one. What do you have to loose, a few quarter sheets of particle board?
Yes, you can make a two layer baffle, but it is harder as you then have to line things up. You might as well learn to cut the rabbits correctly first.
You need a backer board. Tack or double stick tape it to your work piece. This is when you cut through, the plug with the pivot hole does not move.
Drill the 1/8 pilot hole. Do the rabbit first, it will take several passes to get a wide enough flange. Don't worry about the small diameter getting smaller as you will make the through hole anyway. Use test boards to test the depth of cut.
Routers are easy to use. Fun. Can do lots of fancy things. Simple 45 with a pilot bearing does a great job relieving the back side. They can make fancy joints, straight edges and freeform. Just practice. Make a lot of holes in a scrap board. When you feel confident, then to the good project.
Yes, you can make a two layer baffle, but it is harder as you then have to line things up. You might as well learn to cut the rabbits correctly first.
You need a backer board. Tack or double stick tape it to your work piece. This is when you cut through, the plug with the pivot hole does not move.
Drill the 1/8 pilot hole. Do the rabbit first, it will take several passes to get a wide enough flange. Don't worry about the small diameter getting smaller as you will make the through hole anyway. Use test boards to test the depth of cut.
Routers are easy to use. Fun. Can do lots of fancy things. Simple 45 with a pilot bearing does a great job relieving the back side. They can make fancy joints, straight edges and freeform. Just practice. Make a lot of holes in a scrap board. When you feel confident, then to the good project.
137mm hole yes?
Well this would work if so:
Amazon.com: Greenlee 35728 Recessed Light Hole Saw, Steel Toothed, 5-3/8-Inch: Home Improvement
If you use the router, don't forget the eye protection!!
Well this would work if so:
Amazon.com: Greenlee 35728 Recessed Light Hole Saw, Steel Toothed, 5-3/8-Inch: Home Improvement
If you use the router, don't forget the eye protection!!
Too bad. I've got a pair of Mar-Ken cabs built for Alpair 10.2's that I'd give you. Shipping might be a bit much!
don
I would be more worried about the low cost bit than the router.
Here's a good bit for cutting holes in MDF, cost is not bad:
Amazon.com: Amana Tool 45210 Straight Plunge 1/4-Inch Diameter by 1-Inch Cutting Height by 1/4-Inch Shank Carbide Tipped Router Bit: Home Improvement
You can make a circle cutter with scrape 1/4" plywood.
Here's a good bit for cutting holes in MDF, cost is not bad:
Amazon.com: Amana Tool 45210 Straight Plunge 1/4-Inch Diameter by 1-Inch Cutting Height by 1/4-Inch Shank Carbide Tipped Router Bit: Home Improvement
You can make a circle cutter with scrape 1/4" plywood.
a couple of thoughts:
as already said - the Jasper jig is "da bomb" for this sorta thing- and certainly a lot more versatile than a single sized hole saw - but note that since they're calibrated for a 1/4" bit, recessing the rebate for the 10.2's flange will take several passes
to echo Odougbo's comment - do not go cheap on the bits themselves - for this particular application ( i.e. the Jasper Jig) a dual fluted spiral bit solid carbide would probably give you the cleanest cuts and longest service life
absent the availability of night school, etc courses, perhaps there's a local tools 'n space type of woodworking shop where a few hours of instruction/rental time will pay big dividends
as already said - the Jasper jig is "da bomb" for this sorta thing- and certainly a lot more versatile than a single sized hole saw - but note that since they're calibrated for a 1/4" bit, recessing the rebate for the 10.2's flange will take several passes
to echo Odougbo's comment - do not go cheap on the bits themselves - for this particular application ( i.e. the Jasper Jig) a dual fluted spiral bit solid carbide would probably give you the cleanest cuts and longest service life
absent the availability of night school, etc courses, perhaps there's a local tools 'n space type of woodworking shop where a few hours of instruction/rental time will pay big dividends
+1, and thanks Chris for suggesting the same to me last year. A very handy tool.
and securely clamp work piece onto bench - or cut oversize an screw down, then trim to finished size after confirming fit of driver
a sacrificial piece of scrap material under work piece will prevent damage to work surface, and unless the baffle is already attached to enclosure, I generally don't route the through hole thru, but rather stop about 1mm short and drill a single hole and trim off with flush trim bit from the backside - prevents the router slipping as you complete the hole - "slipping" and router aren't a good combination - at the very least for the bits
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I put the most important thing at the top. You maybe have the MCS all in one router kit or just the stand alone trim router? I used a rebranded MCS kit for years before getting an entry level fixed base router from Sears rather then the plunge base.
Posts like this always remind me of the old joke about the woodworker who would say, "I've been doing this for 30 years and I still have all eight fingers."
Library books and videos do not allow the proper kind of study for learning craft.
I bought Bill Hylton's Router Magic-- a sturdy hardbound book at half.com a division of ebay. It's much easier to study with a book you own.
And this is a good topic for people new to DIY audio. But Router forums is a must see.
I put the most important thing at the top. You maybe have the MCS all in one router kit or just the stand alone trim router? I used a rebranded MCS kit for years before getting an entry level fixed base router from Sears rather then the plunge base.
Posts like this always remind me of the old joke about the woodworker who would say, "I've been doing this for 30 years and I still have all eight fingers."
Library books and videos do not allow the proper kind of study for learning craft.
I bought Bill Hylton's Router Magic-- a sturdy hardbound book at half.com a division of ebay. It's much easier to study with a book you own.
And this is a good topic for people new to DIY audio. But Router forums is a must see.
Marvel 40 3-in1 Router Kit
This link is for comparison purposes. It's the original MLCS All in One trim router shown with attachments.
The handle attachment for the base is the only sort of thing that gives control to a tool like this. It keeps those precious fingers well away from the business end.
Triton and the Porter Cable Colt are part of the new generation of smaller and more controllable routers for above surface work.
A device like the MLCS all in one allows for the use of 1/8 spin bits as are used in the Ziptool. With a guide board you can get a pretty straight cut.
We don't know what else is in your shop right now (?)
This link is for comparison purposes. It's the original MLCS All in One trim router shown with attachments.
The handle attachment for the base is the only sort of thing that gives control to a tool like this. It keeps those precious fingers well away from the business end.
Triton and the Porter Cable Colt are part of the new generation of smaller and more controllable routers for above surface work.
A device like the MLCS all in one allows for the use of 1/8 spin bits as are used in the Ziptool. With a guide board you can get a pretty straight cut.
We don't know what else is in your shop right now (?)
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