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20mm plywood
I now just need to remove the drivers so that i can add sticky foamy thing tape between driver rim and baffle.
Also, line the interior with acoustic dampening material
Instructions say to use fiberglass, but i'd rather not... What commonly available material is suitable? Also, do i cover all the surfaces with it? All except the baffle? Only the upper half?
I'd appreciate any and all advice
p.s.: they sound very well.
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thank you for your input!
I will try out different types of material, see what sounds better, I think it is important to see how the cabinets interact with the room.
frankly i don't think i will hear any difference... these are the first serious speakers i ever hear so i am not well adjusted to hear such small differences. Yet
I will try out different types of material, see what sounds better, I think it is important to see how the cabinets interact with the room.
frankly i don't think i will hear any difference... these are the first serious speakers i ever hear so i am not well adjusted to hear such small differences. Yet
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@ Melon Head : Indeed it is! I used 20mm plywood instead of 18mm, adjusting the panel dimensions to keep the internal volume and dimensions the same. They sound great. Haven't heard other big speakers to compare, but as far as i can tell, they are the best speakers i've heard so far in my life.
@ Bigun : i will try all three and see what sounds better... until i sand them and paint them you will have to be patient for the photos
thanks to all for your comments
@ Bigun : i will try all three and see what sounds better... until i sand them and paint them you will have to be patient for the photos
thanks to all for your comments
from the front they look gorgeous, granted. Especially the combination with the black driver and the copper center of the driver.
but there are screws visible and from the side you can see the profile of the wood panels
so i need to sand them, apply wood filler to cover the screws and then paint them, but that must be done after i decide what filler (if any) i will use
but there are screws visible and from the side you can see the profile of the wood panels
so i need to sand them, apply wood filler to cover the screws and then paint them, but that must be done after i decide what filler (if any) i will use
One method is to fill the hole with wood glue and sand over the top so the hole fills up birch wood dust and mixes with the glue. That way you get the perfect match. Or you could remove the screw and put a wooden dowl in. You might need to drill the hole slightly larger to put the dowl in
Suppose i used a piece of cloth with which to cover my 12" AN drivers to tame their slightly emphasised high frequency response
is this idea reasonable? My thought is that since it is not an electronic filter it won't affect the phase
Right now i am using one pure cotton ([audiophile]it sounds better than polyester or wool[/audiophile]) t-shirt for each speaker
is this idea reasonable? My thought is that since it is not an electronic filter it won't affect the phase
Right now i am using one pure cotton ([audiophile]it sounds better than polyester or wool[/audiophile]) t-shirt for each speaker
One method is to fill the hole with wood glue and sand over the top so the hole fills up birch wood dust and mixes with the glue. That way you get the perfect match. Or you could remove the screw and put a wooden dowl in. You might need to drill the hole slightly larger to put the dowl in
Never had much luck with the former, though mixing sawdust into the glue, then using it as a putty has worked well, so is my default for a painted finish with the latter way for staining and/or plugging holes in outdoor or other extreme conditions apps.
GM
Suppose i used a piece of cloth with which to cover my 12" AN drivers to tame their slightly emphasised high frequency response
is this idea reasonable? My thought is that since it is not an electronic filter it won't affect the phase
Right now i am using one pure cotton ([audiophile]it sounds better than polyester or wool[/audiophile]) t-shirt for each speaker
Just try breaking them in further.
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Joined 2009
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Suppose i used a piece of cloth with which to cover my 12" AN drivers to tame their slightly emphasised high frequency response
maybe something like this: Holes prevent sound from passing through plate - physicsworld.com
I don't think that the cloth will have much affect from 1khz-4khz, while it will really knock everything down above that (not a good thing). But I may be wrong.
tsiros, look into a shelf filter, zobel, and 2.5khz notch. Most seem to not mind a bit of lift at 1.5khz, I do. Maybe 14khz notch too.
Or use a 31 band eq (maybe a 10 minimum).
Post #43 should get you real close.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/154897-audio-nirvana-super-12-cast-frame-measured-t-s.html
Don't forget baffle step also.
Norman
tsiros, look into a shelf filter, zobel, and 2.5khz notch. Most seem to not mind a bit of lift at 1.5khz, I do. Maybe 14khz notch too.
Or use a 31 band eq (maybe a 10 minimum).
Post #43 should get you real close.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/154897-audio-nirvana-super-12-cast-frame-measured-t-s.html
Don't forget baffle step also.
Norman
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I reckon it is mostly a case of the woofers are not broken in yet. These speakers have very stiff surrounds that need quite a bit of time to loosen up. You could try some of Normans ideas, they will definitely help but after a few hundred hours of play time I would remove it
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