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Old 22nd August 2012, 02:16 AM   #851
Ginge is offline Ginge  Australia
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MH,
Thanks. Yes chased up the thread on PHY style baffe. It is tall. Thinking myself now of using my AN 12's Alnico at FR and adding some cast 15 bass assist in OB or FAST.

How are you finding the B5. Anyone using pure music and exasound dac for crossover control.

Cheers
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Old 22nd August 2012, 03:08 AM   #852
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Blocking off the baffle and cutting a new driver hole at ~20% down and locating the ports right at the bottom should improve performance somewhat. This should yield a small amount of TL action, lowering the vent's tuning slightly plus their close proximity to the bottom plate will further lower it due to their close proximity to the bottom plate. Just slide the tubes in part way and use blu-tac or similar to seal them in case they need an even lower tuning to flatten the response out.


GM
Here is a photo of the baffle. I will first try properly sealing tne ports with blutac
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Old 22nd August 2012, 03:20 AM   #853
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aah crap wrong box. LMAO . Too many boxes haha
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Old 22nd August 2012, 04:20 AM   #854
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Here is the correct picture. Hehe
I am not sure whether moving the ports another inch lower will be that effective
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Last edited by Melon Head; 22nd August 2012 at 04:26 AM.
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Old 22nd August 2012, 08:12 AM   #855
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Originally Posted by Ginge View Post
MH,
Thanks. Yes chased up the thread on PHY style baffe. It is tall. Thinking myself now of using my AN 12's Alnico at FR and adding some cast 15 bass assist in OB or FAST.

How are you finding the B5. Anyone using pure music and exasound dac for crossover control.

Cheers
The baffle does not necessarily need to be that tall, but you want to avoid putting the driver close to the top edge. I am going to see how much I can shrink the height down before it starts having a negative effect. My gut says 1.2m to 1.4m for a fast setup, but it really depends on how high you want to put your driver on the baffle. As a rough guess you want about 40cm or more in baffle height above the top driver
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Old 22nd August 2012, 01:57 PM   #856
tsiros is offline tsiros  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melon Head View Post
Here is the correct picture. Hehe
I am not sure whether moving the ports another inch lower will be that effective
ah i see you went with the wide version of the 5.6

i went with the wide version too

the speaker looks imposing, though. dammit, wish i could cash up that much

the 12 CFs cost me $380 :/
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Old 22nd August 2012, 02:04 PM   #857
GM is offline GM  United States
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Originally Posted by Melon Head View Post
Here is the correct picture. Hehe
I am not sure whether moving the ports another inch lower will be that effective
Interesting, the couple of A-N cabs I've seen had the driver near the middle with the ports directly underneath in the classical BR layout that causes a big dip in the mid-bass if not in a golden or acoustical ratio cab.

The cab shown should be much smoother/flatter once damped and tuned to Fs and even more so if tuned to ~23 Hz.

Then again, if there's any air leaks, the cab's tuning will be much higher than it should be and cause the sort of response you're getting.

GM
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Old 22nd August 2012, 09:21 PM   #858
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Thanks for all the suggestions.
I will try sealing the ports first then remeasure
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Old 22nd August 2012, 09:47 PM   #859
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ah i see you went with the wide version of the 5.6

i went with the wide version too

the speaker looks imposing, though. dammit, wish i could cash up that much

the 12 CFs cost me $380 :/
I didn't have a choice, the 15s are too wide for the narrow version.
I aggonised quite a bit over purchasing these but when I really weighed everything up they are a true bargain. On the last speaker-build I spent over $300 dollars just on crossover components.

This time around I wanted to build something high efficiency so my options were more limited.
The amount of money I have spent on building amps is probably in the 1000s of dollars, and the cost of a good cd player, blah blah etc, I thought I really owed it to myself not to foolishly try and save money and then end up paying more.
Initially I was going to get a pair of GPA 604-8H III at around $2000 because I heard a pair and really liked them, then I had long discussions with David Dicks and decided to give him a chance, and I am glad I did, because I like these more than the GPA coaxial speakers.
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Old 22nd August 2012, 10:28 PM   #860
BudP is offline BudP  United States
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and the cost of a good cd player
And soon enough, a laptop turned into a music server, with attendant worries about USB asynchronous output, just because the quality of sound from such a thing is so far superior to anyone's CD player....

Bud
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