i actually have, but they sounded horrible... maybe i should listen to them in another orientation. i just placed them on my desk, flat on their backs. One, actually. didn't hear anything wortwhile
Well I see you have 12" drivers and not the 15" drivers.
I can't comment on the 12" drivers because I have not heard them, but I can say the 15" cast frame sounds quite a bit better than the Super 10" neodymium (ie just on the floor)
You need to build a cabinet for them.
One other thing, try running them 1.5 way you might find you like them much better
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i actually have, but they sounded horrible... maybe i should listen to them in another orientation. i just placed them on my desk, flat on their backs. One, actually. didn't hear anything wortwhile
What did you try listening to - Opeth?
I don't agree with simulations, I agree with some measurements. Check out stereophile's review on Jamo r907, 18" wide. There is a dip where the mid driver is out of phase near 1,100hz (where the wave is 180 degrees out of phase and cancels), then a +db hump at 500hz (where the back wave is 90 degrees out of phase and adds) and rolls off. That's what you get with a 5.5" driver in the middle of an 18" wide open baffle. Notice that 1129/(18"/12") gives the dip a bit lower than 1,100hz. So a driver starts shorting out not at the middle but closer to or at its edge.
Jamo Reference R 907 loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
Something like this but hinges initially. Depending on music, you may not need a sub.
If you could be 26" or more from speaker frame to nearest baffle edge, you'd get a nice +6db hump around 130hz (on the phy open baffle).
But that baffle is 66" tall, center 16" wide with 24" deep wings. Me wants. Me might builds.
That driver (an15) is reported to sound best past 200 hours. Any "papery" coloration will be almost totally gone.
Norman
Hello,
Great project! Sadly Norman is right here, the math and back wave do not lie.
Through my experience with OB's anything below 22 inches in width you will experience mid band suck out. You can always add wings after the fact. Also, you can add card board too test. Good luck, looks like a very worthy project!Ramon
What did you try listening to - Opeth?
the ffff
??? actually, yes, i was listening to the Drapery Fallswait... i just got the joke. ha. ha. good one, zman.
I hope i enjoy them
Hope you start liking them more when you get them into a proper cab. If OB let's see what Melon Head does next.
Keep us posted!
I put them on my desk
now listening to rite of spring.
except for the complete lack of bass, the stereo image is so transparent it feels the sound is coming from somewhere behind my monitor. I can feel that there is powerful bass here, since i can feel my ( 25mm , solid wood) desk shake, but i can not hear it. If i put my ear next to the speakers, there is something, but the highs are overpowering from that small distance.
I am going tomorrow to have the plywood cut.
now listening to rite of spring.
except for the complete lack of bass, the stereo image is so transparent it feels the sound is coming from somewhere behind my monitor. I can feel that there is powerful bass here, since i can feel my ( 25mm , solid wood) desk shake, but i can not hear it. If i put my ear next to the speakers, there is something, but the highs are overpowering from that small distance.
I am going tomorrow to have the plywood cut.
You should look here for help using the an12's.
They NEED a notch or 2 or more to sound good (well?).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...rvana-super-12-cast-frame-measured-t-s-7.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/154897-audio-nirvana-super-12-cast-frame-measured-t-s.html
"Michael chua did lots of work and graphs.
bad spike at 2.5khz but basically spikey from 2.5khz to 6khz.
but zobel (8.2uF and 22ohms), rl filter (1mH and 2.7ohms, shelves all highs down a little), and notch at 2.5khz (12uF, 330uH, and 15ohms) got an owner happy. A small peak at 5khz shouldn't bother anyone's ears."
norman
They NEED a notch or 2 or more to sound good (well?).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...rvana-super-12-cast-frame-measured-t-s-7.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/154897-audio-nirvana-super-12-cast-frame-measured-t-s.html
"Michael chua did lots of work and graphs.
bad spike at 2.5khz but basically spikey from 2.5khz to 6khz.
but zobel (8.2uF and 22ohms), rl filter (1mH and 2.7ohms, shelves all highs down a little), and notch at 2.5khz (12uF, 330uH, and 15ohms) got an owner happy. A small peak at 5khz shouldn't bother anyone's ears."
norman
Just some comments on the AN 12 cast frame - One is they need long break in. Mine got noticeably better after 200 hours. Two they will show their best IMO when relieved of below 70 Hz ie with a helper woofer / subwoofer. Three check out the Enabl thread on cone treatment. Four the Zobel and other filtering IMO are somewhat system dependent and perhaps not all that critical if the Enabl is done. If you already have them you can make them into a fine part of your system. If you don't hmmmm well if I didn't I'd give the 15's a look. The trade off being with the 15's I'd add a tweeter, with the 12's no tweeter needed. Anyway my 2c for what it's worth.
why would you need fifteen frames?!
oh wait...
guys, i do not really want to play around with the speakers without a cabinet... so far i am trying to lay down the plans for constructing the cabinets...
Super 10 Neo on 1m baffle. I will try 1.5 way next.
Edit: Just trying to compare the qualities of the Super 10 Neo vs Super 15 Cast frame.
Without the baffle on the 10 it is too difficult to compare against the 15" (which just seems to work)
Will listen to 10" again without baffle to hear the difference.
Edit: Just trying to compare the qualities of the Super 10 Neo vs Super 15 Cast frame.
Without the baffle on the 10 it is too difficult to compare against the 15" (which just seems to work)
Will listen to 10" again without baffle to hear the difference.
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