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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: montpellier french mediterranean seaside
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hi,
i dunno exactly what are the differences between these concepts (so you know how ignorant i am) my fe103e single driver speakers are fatiguing because of exaggerated mids/hight frequencies so i suppose i must digg there enclosures are 25 liters , vented what circuitry should be recommended? thank you dondiba |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/do...o-103_copy.pdf
http://www.fostexinternational.com/d...fe103erev2.pdf Hi, First link contains a filter. 25L is a lot for a 6.9L Vas driver, and impossible to tune without some form of bass peak, and the overall bass loss will be added to by baffle step, no wonder it sounds thin. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: montpellier french mediterranean seaside
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hi,
the enclosure design was found here : La Petite Audiophile I'll try the filter values , maybe will have to tweak as the enclosure is different regards dondiba |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
That box calculates to nearer 30L and a vent tuning around 45Hz. I'd convert it to a FAST (full range assisted). rgds, sreten. Response shown is without taking baffle step into account. Try http://sound.westhost.com/bafflestep.htm with limited power, increase its range if needed.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow Last edited by sreten; 3rd June 2012 at 02:11 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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![]() Hi, Above is the simulated ripple of a little over 8" wide baffle, with a 5" driver and rounded edges. In your case ripple will be more due to the straight edges and the use of a smaller driver (that increases ripple). You might be looking at about 12dB gain, 100Hz to 1KHz, taking into account some room gain, nearer 15dB anechoic probably. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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FYI,
b
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
The MJK sim is more accurate than my simplistic box modelling, indicating somewhat more bass output and more peaking. It may sound like a wacky idea but adding a higher Q lower Fs, higher Xmax driver in parallel as a 0.5 way driver might work well. (You could of course just use another Fostex, but thats boring ...) (The former something even Bjorno might be challenged to model .....) This is cheap : Madisound Speaker Store (and great value). Interestingly it has the same completely linear Xmax as the Fostex, but due to the long coil and gap, will overload more gracefully I assume. I reckon it will add ~ 10dB to maximum bass output. But the inductor isn't : Madisound Speaker Store Line the port with porous foam to detune and damp it somewhat. 1/4" foam would be a good place to start IMO. You should also stuff the area behind the Fostex, to damp its midrange and suppress the vertical resonant mode of the cabinet. Whatever, you should end up with a a lot more bass and bass end capability. The added driver should reduce the bass end peaking. If done well the extra driver will suppress the fostex's limited excursion, and the whole far exceed the starting point, for not much, fingers crossed. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow Last edited by sreten; 3rd June 2012 at 05:26 PM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Agree with sreten.. First try to put some damping material into the port, reduce the port length too.
Hints on how much in the submitted picture: b
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: montpellier french mediterranean seaside
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hi, why not ,
make a 2nd hole above the fostex' and closest as possible for a 2nd driver, otherwise the precision of imaging would be impaired; the 103fe and the aura are 8 ohms ,so in parallel the 'impedance' will be half, 4 ohms, i suppose, still drivable by a SS amp could be fun but the enclosure is glued + screwed + braced very strongly... so, i'll try to reduce the port first, it's easier ;-) regards, dondiba |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Lining the port reduces the tuning frequency, reducing its length increases the tuning frequency and is generally a very bad idea. There is little point mounting a 0.5 way driver above the main driver. If the look appeals cut a hole above the Fostex for the Fostex, stuff behind it. Enlarge the original hole for the Aura. Chamfer the Fostex hole, the Aura hole is not so critical. The drivers don't have to be particularly close at all for a 0.5 way. The 0.5 way driver could be mounted pretty much anywhere below the Fostex and the port, but if you like the visuals above go for it. rgds, sreten. Yes it will be 4 ohms in the bass, and 8 ohms in the mid/treble, not a problem for most amplifiers other than naff IC amplifiers.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow Last edited by sreten; 3rd June 2012 at 07:39 PM. |
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