Dave can you tell me which one is your last release? what is Sachiko v2ß? what is Kirishima? what is what? I'm in maze
Sachiko v2ß = working name for Kirishima
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/205729-spawn-olson-nagaoka-horns-next-generation.html
dave
Hello.I want to drive Kirishima with my F5 power amplifier with only B1 buffer and no preamp.I think pre is not necessary and it will sound loud enough for me because my living room is not very big(25m2).But my wife does not want me to put kirishama into living room.I am upset.We are fighting 
Can i get a good sound with another little cabinet? I do not know what to do.
Can i get a good sound with another little cabinet? I do not know what to do.
Kirishima is as skinny as you are going to get for an 8" driver. Dalas II is shorter.
Ron Clarke Horns
dave
Ron Clarke Horns
dave
Unfortunately she liked fe126en system.
Fostex FE126en Folded Horn - YouTube
I also like smaller speakers because of their speed of sound is better for me.But i do not like their bass
But happiliy she says the speaker can be like this and bigger.Can we magnify this cabinet with 1.5 or 2x for fe206en?
if not adding a sub to this 126en system maybe?
Or another speaker looks same like fe126en and bigger size.Any recommends?
Fostex FE126en Folded Horn - YouTube
I also like smaller speakers because of their speed of sound is better for me.But i do not like their bass
But happiliy she says the speaker can be like this and bigger.Can we magnify this cabinet with 1.5 or 2x for fe206en?
if not adding a sub to this 126en system maybe?
Or another speaker looks same like fe126en and bigger size.Any recommends?
The small BK-12m style enclosure for the 5" FE126En your wife likes does not seem to be available for the larger 8" FE206En. You could look at the 6" FE166En driver for a potentially smaller cabinet but I don't know that a BK-12m style of enclosure is available for this one either. Front and back double mouthed horns are available for all of these drivers if you can convince the wife to like one of them.
I liked the Sachikos in my avatar!
Edit sorry they are my old OB 's, here are the Sachikos....
Edit sorry they are my old OB 's, here are the Sachikos....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This thread has been dead for quite a while, but am hoping to get a little help. I am new to speaker building, but have spent a lot of time building headphones for myself and others:
wabisabiheadphones.com
I decided a while ago it would be fun to try my hand at full-range speakers. I am looking for a little advice. I recently picked up some Fostex FE206En, and after trying them in a pair of Maple Plywood bass reflex cabinets was very happy.
I decided to make a prettier pair of cabinets out of Mahogany and Poplar.
On the Maple Plywood cabinets I inadvertently increased the cabinet size a little. They are just over 100,000 cubic centimeters larger internally than the specs provided by Fostex. On the Mahogany and Poplar cabinets I shrank things down a little thinking it wouldn't do any harm. They are roughly 360,000 cubic centimeters smaller, internally, than the specs provided by Fostex.
The Maple, Poplar cabinets give the drivers a harsh sound in the upper mids and high end. I have tried installing acoustic foam and stuffing with Dacron, and its helped alleviate things maybe 50%.
I am going to add more Dacron, but wanted to ask...in your experience is it the materials used (the Mahogany, Poplar hardwood vs the Maply Plywood) that can do this, or is it the decreased internal volume, and am I going about the right methods to counter it?
wabisabiheadphones.com
I decided a while ago it would be fun to try my hand at full-range speakers. I am looking for a little advice. I recently picked up some Fostex FE206En, and after trying them in a pair of Maple Plywood bass reflex cabinets was very happy.
I decided to make a prettier pair of cabinets out of Mahogany and Poplar.
On the Maple Plywood cabinets I inadvertently increased the cabinet size a little. They are just over 100,000 cubic centimeters larger internally than the specs provided by Fostex. On the Mahogany and Poplar cabinets I shrank things down a little thinking it wouldn't do any harm. They are roughly 360,000 cubic centimeters smaller, internally, than the specs provided by Fostex.
The Maple, Poplar cabinets give the drivers a harsh sound in the upper mids and high end. I have tried installing acoustic foam and stuffing with Dacron, and its helped alleviate things maybe 50%.
I am going to add more Dacron, but wanted to ask...in your experience is it the materials used (the Mahogany, Poplar hardwood vs the Maply Plywood) that can do this, or is it the decreased internal volume, and am I going about the right methods to counter it?
I asume that the comma is a decimal sign so that the size differences are 100 and 360 cm3 or 0.1 and 0.36 liters, both a very small fraction of a resonable sized box for a 8" driver. So neither that or different wood types should affect the sound especially the high range. How is the driver mounted in the baffle? A rearmounted driver can have resonanses if the baffle hole has straigt edges.
If you like the FE206 in a BR enclosure, you’ll love it in a proper horn. These drivers really, really want to be horn-loaded. Dallas II, Kirishima, Vulcan.
A BR for the FE206 with a nice looking bass alignment is quite small (something like 10 litres, can’t check right now) and doesn’t go very low.
And they like to see a high output impedance amplifier, what are you using?
Also, when you say Mahogany and Poplar do you mean plywood or solid?
dave
A BR for the FE206 with a nice looking bass alignment is quite small (something like 10 litres, can’t check right now) and doesn’t go very low.
And they like to see a high output impedance amplifier, what are you using?
Also, when you say Mahogany and Poplar do you mean plywood or solid?
dave
Thanks for the responses...its sincerely appreciated.
You assume correctly on the measurements, and the the drivers aren't rearmounted.
I reached out to Madisound, and they were pretty helpful too. They advised that my cabinets are at about 44 liters volume, and the specs provided by Fostex for a BR give about 45 liters, so the difference is, in their opinion, negligible.
The wood is solid, not plywood. Based on this they advised I try adding bracing to the cabinets. I'm going to give this a go by mimicking the bracing up the back of the standard horn-loaded enclosure specs for the FE206En, and maybe adding something simpler up the sides on the insides as well (or the outsides). Any thoughts/advice on this are/is welcome.
They also advised to move up to a horn-loaded enclosure
I think I see a horn-loaded enclosure build in my future. The signs are a little insistent. I wanted to start with something simpler. Now that I've felt my way around the BR twice, I think I'm ready to venture towards trying Baltic Birch and a the horn-loaded design.
The amp I am using is built around the Parts Express T-amp board. I THINK the output impedance is 0.35 ohm, but don't quote me on that.
You assume correctly on the measurements, and the the drivers aren't rearmounted.
I reached out to Madisound, and they were pretty helpful too. They advised that my cabinets are at about 44 liters volume, and the specs provided by Fostex for a BR give about 45 liters, so the difference is, in their opinion, negligible.
The wood is solid, not plywood. Based on this they advised I try adding bracing to the cabinets. I'm going to give this a go by mimicking the bracing up the back of the standard horn-loaded enclosure specs for the FE206En, and maybe adding something simpler up the sides on the insides as well (or the outsides). Any thoughts/advice on this are/is welcome.
They also advised to move up to a horn-loaded enclosure
I think I see a horn-loaded enclosure build in my future. The signs are a little insistent
. I wanted to start with something simpler. Now that I've felt my way around the BR twice, I think I'm ready to venture towards trying Baltic Birch and a the horn-loaded design. The amp I am using is built around the Parts Express T-amp board. I THINK the output impedance is 0.35 ohm, but don't quote me on that.
OK, a couple of suggestions:
1/ If you build a horn -don't use Fostex's 206 design. It's not one of their better examples. Believe it or not, you'll get a better balanced / slightly more linear response (at least if not in a relatively small room) if you use the FE208ESigma design.
2/ In the meantime -grab yourself a spool of magnet wire, or a power resistor of about 2.5ohm - 4ohm, at least 10w handling. Carefully, given the current pandemic, if you have to go down to the shops -I don't wish to be responsible for anybody getting Covid-19. If the former, 24ga - 30ga will do, and use a single strand for each leg (OK, they're not really different legs, but you know what I mean), closely spaced, but not twisted together (that enamel insulation is extremely thin). No, I'm not joking. The idea is to increase your series / loop resistance. Either the wire or the resistor will get a mite warm, so go a bit easy on the volume knob; the 30ga especially can also be fragile if dangling over your carpet, but either will give you an idea how the bass alignment changes as the effective Q (amplifier output impedance or damping factor if you prefer) alters
1/ If you build a horn -don't use Fostex's 206 design. It's not one of their better examples. Believe it or not, you'll get a better balanced / slightly more linear response (at least if not in a relatively small room) if you use the FE208ESigma design.
2/ In the meantime -grab yourself a spool of magnet wire, or a power resistor of about 2.5ohm - 4ohm, at least 10w handling. Carefully, given the current pandemic, if you have to go down to the shops -I don't wish to be responsible for anybody getting Covid-19. If the former, 24ga - 30ga will do, and use a single strand for each leg (OK, they're not really different legs, but you know what I mean), closely spaced, but not twisted together (that enamel insulation is extremely thin). No, I'm not joking. The idea is to increase your series / loop resistance. Either the wire or the resistor will get a mite warm, so go a bit easy on the volume knob; the 30ga especially can also be fragile if dangling over your carpet, but either will give you an idea how the bass alignment changes as the effective Q (amplifier output impedance or damping factor if you prefer) alters
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Thanks! I'll do some research into the FE208EZ...
BTW, just realized you noted 10 litres for "a nice looking bass alignment"...what does this mean? That sounds tiny compared to the stock sze (45 litres)! Compact isn't necessarily a bad thing though...open to making a smaller sized enclosure as well...
For clarity, I wasn't implying you should go out and buy a pair of FE208ESigmas, very nice drivers though they are -just consider using the FE208e∑ horn design with your 206s. It typically gives better balanced / superior results.
Re the 45 litre vented box, as Dave says, based on the Factory data, it's not a very good alignment, unless you have a high output impedance amplifier, the cabinets rammed up against boundaries, a small listening room and a given set of musical priorities. Some (quite a lot of) Japanese cabinet designs incorporate a number of usage assumptions which usually aren't documented because their primary audience (Japanese hobbyists) are already familiar with them. Assuming a voltage source amplifier and about 0.5ohm series R for typical wire, connections, then a Keele flat[ish] alignment would be roughly 10.5 litres tuned to 80.42Hz.
Re the 45 litre vented box, as Dave says, based on the Factory data, it's not a very good alignment, unless you have a high output impedance amplifier, the cabinets rammed up against boundaries, a small listening room and a given set of musical priorities. Some (quite a lot of) Japanese cabinet designs incorporate a number of usage assumptions which usually aren't documented because their primary audience (Japanese hobbyists) are already familiar with them. Assuming a voltage source amplifier and about 0.5ohm series R for typical wire, connections, then a Keele flat[ish] alignment would be roughly 10.5 litres tuned to 80.42Hz.