last month I ran into some NOS Philips AD-5061 4Ohm full-range speakers... decided to give them a try... as they are absolute New Old Stock 100 US$/pr seemed pretty a bargain. I managed to build a Back-Loaded Horn for them. Fostex 103-EN plan was the candidate. now project is at completion stage... these new born infants are waiting for painting... I'll post a testing report as soon as I could...
Pictures:
Pictures:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Those Philips drivers are really nice, I have the Phillips AD3701M a older version.They have a "musical" sound to them.
If they come out as light in the bass try adding a baffle step correction filter. I did that to my Philipsdrivers in a Voigt pipe and it improved the balance between bass and midrange a lot.
I envy you your big room. My wife does not allow me to have speakers in the living room, she is wearing the pants, what can I say
If they come out as light in the bass try adding a baffle step correction filter. I did that to my Philipsdrivers in a Voigt pipe and it improved the balance between bass and midrange a lot.
I envy you your big room. My wife does not allow me to have speakers in the living room, she is wearing the pants, what can I say
Those Philips drivers are really nice, I have the Phillips AD3701M a older version.They have a "musical" sound to them.
If they come out as light in the bass try adding a baffle step correction filter. I did that to my Philipsdrivers in a Voigt pipe and it improved the balance between bass and midrange a lot.
I envy you your big room. My wife does not allow me to have speakers in the living room, she is wearing the pants, what can I say
thanks buddy for reply... and YES they are musical and very efficient as well... (at least 95db/1W because they sound like live with only 1-5 Watt of power)
in this horn configuration the bass is pretty good... I think there is a glimpse of 30hz range... mid is really hoping... highs are very extended... I've listened to Fostex 103-EN and I can chose Philips over 103-EN without battin' an eye
could you please tell me more about "baffle step correction filter"?
Good find on these drivers! I have AD9710 as well as AD7060 from Philips and both are pretty good.
Baffle Step Correction takes care of shelving the midrange and high-frequencies at the point where radiation goes from 4Pi space to 2Pi space and output can raise up to 6dB compared to the bass range.
Loudspeaker Diffraction Loss and Baffle Step Compensation Circuits
Baffle Step Compensation
IG
Baffle Step Correction takes care of shelving the midrange and high-frequencies at the point where radiation goes from 4Pi space to 2Pi space and output can raise up to 6dB compared to the bass range.
Loudspeaker Diffraction Loss and Baffle Step Compensation Circuits
Baffle Step Compensation
IG
You can take the values I have used (Doctor Boar; DIY loudspeakers and HiFi). It appears that the Zobel filter values are not that critical. The values to use are really a matter of taste as well as an effect of speaker placement for any given construction.
Many two way loudspeakers have the baffle step compensation hidden in the crossover were they use a coil for the bass driver that is at least twise as large as the textbook values for the crossover point.
Then you can really enjoy persian music like Sima Bina with her singing and that ney flute giving that feeling of magic.
Many two way loudspeakers have the baffle step compensation hidden in the crossover were they use a coil for the bass driver that is at least twise as large as the textbook values for the crossover point.
Then you can really enjoy persian music like Sima Bina with her singing and that ney flute giving that feeling of magic.
You can take the values I have used (Doctor Boar; DIY loudspeakers and HiFi). It appears that the Zobel filter values are not that critical. The values to use are really a matter of taste as well as an effect of speaker placement for any given construction.
Many two way loudspeakers have the baffle step compensation hidden in the crossover were they use a coil for the bass driver that is at least twise as large as the textbook values for the crossover point.
Then you can really enjoy persian music like Sima Bina with her singing and that ney flute giving that feeling of magic.
Thanks buddy. I'm just amazed about you that know Sima Bina and persian music
I don't have any plan to use baffle step compensation yet... I'll listen for a while and then use it as a change in the sound
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A back-loaded horn is typically used to offset the rising response of a driver with a strong motor. Philips drivers, at least most that I know of, have somewhat weaker motors and moderate to high Qts values. There might thus be not too much need for BSC, especially with careful room placement. Experimentation and listening will tell you.
IG
IG
you're right... there is no need to BSC... I tried to attach a ~200hz cutoff tractrix horn in front of the speaker and WOW!!
they sound good as hell... We couldn't believe what we heard... the sound field is just HUGE vocals hit us like a ton of brick ... the transparency is just ok, every element of music can be spotted among the sound stage easily... the sound was so smooth... the macro details were so impressive... the coherency was just ok the sound heard very smooth and airy... although I think this Philips fullrange will sound even better in other enclosures
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It might be even better in a big TQTW. I have my 8" AD9710 units in Karlsons right now and they do well enough. I have yet to do anything really serious with the smaller 6" AD7060, save for an aperiodic box that sounded quite good, but was very lean on bass, I could tell this is a nice driver. A TQWT would be good for this one too.
Do you plan on trying another enclosure? Have you measured the T/S parameters? If not you should, it's not that hard.
IG
Do you plan on trying another enclosure? Have you measured the T/S parameters? If not you should, it's not that hard.
IG
Uh, I'd love to try other enclosures... what do you suggest? TQWT?
about measuring the T/S
I don't have a good mic to do so... and I have no idea which microphones I can use... please explain a bit thanks,
I got an old catalog of 1970-1980 Philips productions... this is the general specification of Philips AD-5061/M4 ... the best 5 incher I've heard so far... (better than some 5-6 inch Fostex models I've heard... better than some Klangfilms I use to have)
(better than some 5-6 inch Fostex models I've heard... better than some Klangfilms I use to have)An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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That's my AD9710 pictured right up there.
You don't need a microphone for the T/S parameters. You need a signal generator, which could be your computer, an amplifier, a resistor and a voltmeter.
Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters
IG
You don't need a microphone for the T/S parameters. You need a signal generator, which could be your computer, an amplifier, a resistor and a voltmeter.
Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters
IG
That's my AD9710 pictured right up there.
You don't need a microphone for the T/S parameters. You need a signal generator, which could be your computer, an amplifier, a resistor and a voltmeter.
Measuring Loudspeaker Driver Parameters
IG
Oh I really appreciate you
take a glance at the foot note of the same page which is written about your AD-9710
:An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have the TSP's for the AD5061/M4 (70's model) which I measured for my own project with ol' Philips drivers (I love'm).
Btw. I used the 80's model of the AD5061 in my project forum.zelfbouwaudio.nl • Toon onderwerp - FASST met Philips AD12100, AD5060 en AD5061
It's in dutch language though.....
Btw. I used the 80's model of the AD5061 in my project forum.zelfbouwaudio.nl • Toon onderwerp - FASST met Philips AD12100, AD5060 en AD5061
It's in dutch language though.....
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Looks like you have the 80's version of the AD5061/M4, the same I used for my Philips Sub+FastSat system.
The TSP's are these.
When you would listen to both versions without any notch filter to compensate bafflestep (or other anomalies) the 70's model sounds more open. If you can get a hand on these, grab 'm. The 70's model has a copper ring on the pole piece, this reduces the impedance rise (as seen on the measurements) and thus extends the high-end response.
The TSP's are these.
When you would listen to both versions without any notch filter to compensate bafflestep (or other anomalies) the 70's model sounds more open. If you can get a hand on these, grab 'm. The 70's model has a copper ring on the pole piece, this reduces the impedance rise (as seen on the measurements) and thus extends the high-end response.
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