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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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The resonant frequency of the RS100-8 is 87.5hz.
That would put the 1/4 wavelength at 38.75". I read somewhere that you should make the pipe slightly shorter than the 1/4" length and lightly stuff the pipe to dampen & slow the wave. How short should I make the pipe? 36"? 30" anywhere in between? Here is a picture of my design idea. Any Thoughts? |
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#2 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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That length calculation is for an untapered line (as yours looks to be), but does not include the end correction,
A good place to start is with Martin King's free alignment tables. It will generate the appropriate cross-section, length, and driver off-set. dave
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I will look those tables over later tonight.
What is End Correction? Will a flare at the open end mess with this End Correction? I plan on building a flare at the bottom end. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: California
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Make sure to at least check out the the alignment tables and/or horn resp. Many times some kind of taper will result in flatter response. Also with what looks like a compression chamber on the front end it could further mess with the response if not specifically designed. Also a flare at the end will change response, possibly beneficially but its hard to guess.
Not sure exactly about end correction but I believe it is something to do with the pipe resonates, the maximum of air velocity will not occur exactly at the open end of the tube but a little beyond so the tuning will be not quite exactly the length of the pipe. I believe it is worse the larger the pipe is in diameter relative to length Good luck! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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A pipe, tube, horn's acoustic length is longer than its physical length, so the end correction is how much the pipe is shortened for a given acoustic length.
Since the end correction is ~0.613x the effective terminus radius, flaring will affect it. In the scheme of things though, even it if alters tuning as much as a few Hz it won't be audible. That said, any line that requires damping won't audibly benefit from flaring unless it has a huge radius. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: California
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Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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The compression chamber will only be as deep as necessary to give the driver a flat surface to mount to (an inch tops).
The pipe is actually a 3/8" wall cardboard tube with a 2.5" internal radius. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: California
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If you have hornresp you should model it real quick, I would but I'm not with my pc
I suppose if you don't like how it sounds its not like it was a huge time investment with that tube |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Hmm, 8" driver firing into a 5" pipe........ Is this what MJK's tables calculate? If so, a TQWT is called for. Otherwise, a driver offset typically is required to deal with peaky pipe modes. That, or a high stuffing density.
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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