Greetings all
back again with the woes of audio, OK I may have some back loaded horn cabs coming (All Fun Horns) which are designed for lowther drivers, before I go hunting for a pair could some recommend a decent alternative driver(cheaper preferably).
I have been looking at the L cao Full range speakers that pop up on the bay.
any idea's welcome
Thanks
Audio_D
back again with the woes of audio, OK I may have some back loaded horn cabs coming (All Fun Horns) which are designed for lowther drivers, before I go hunting for a pair could some recommend a decent alternative driver(cheaper preferably).
I have been looking at the L cao Full range speakers that pop up on the bay.
any idea's welcome
Thanks
Audio_D
I'm running a pair of Big Fun Horns with Coral Beta 8 drivers and I'm very happy with the sound that they produce. I would recommend silver speaker wire with the drivers to give them maximum speed. I don’t believe in absolutes and feel that all speakers have compromises. My preference personally is to use a full-range with “helpers.” I recently purchased a pair of 8” Veravox 7x drivers just on a whim to use with some smaller, back-loaded cabinets that were given to me by a friend: I’ve been really really impressed by the performance of the Veravox drivers. I’ve been planning to try them in the Big Fun Horns but changing the drivers is a bit of a chore and I haven’t got to that yet. I imagine that they will be more rolled off at the frequency extremes but they have a midrange that is simply fantastic
"A cheap version" of Lowther in BL is Fostex 206EN
And there is a bunch of better horn blueprints i the DIY community for them than the lowthers.
And you can easily tweak them. Personally I would get Planet 10's phase plugs to deal with the peaks and dispersion in the treble.
Good luck!
/Jacozz
And there is a bunch of better horn blueprints i the DIY community for them than the lowthers.
And you can easily tweak them. Personally I would get Planet 10's phase plugs to deal with the peaks and dispersion in the treble.
Good luck!
/Jacozz
You lucky fellow! I would love a pair of BFHorns as I have some Lowther
PM6C's just waiting for them. In the meantime I have (for the last 6 years) been very happy with the Fostex 206E's in a 208 Sigma cab. Unfortunately the Lowther's don't work very well in this cab
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Horst, the new picture makes it look much more better, what Chris meant is that in the photo of the white RDH 20 on your website you have connected the speaker at the back outside the enclosure which is not so pretty as inside the enclosure, which you do in the above picture and in the plans.
I agree with chris that your RDH20 is an interesting, appealing design. These two years I am living in an apartment in Singapore, which makes DiY difficult, but I may well be interested in building RDH 20 when I am back in Europe.
One question: you typically use cheap FR drivers at the back, would it not sound better to have the same drivers in the front and at the back?
I agree with chris that your RDH20 is an interesting, appealing design. These two years I am living in an apartment in Singapore, which makes DiY difficult, but I may well be interested in building RDH 20 when I am back in Europe.
One question: you typically use cheap FR drivers at the back, would it not sound better to have the same drivers in the front and at the back?
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Hello,
near a wall, in my case, invers montage sounds better, look the measurements,
no indirect room reflexions above ~2 kHz.
"One question: you typically use cheap FR drivers at the back, would it not sound better to have the same drivers in the front and at the back? "
Today i would prefer the Monacor SPH-210 as the invers back driver,
look the measurements(IMP) you see the front solo measurements with a typical problem,
~3000 Hz, but with a different driver you eleminate it, look 1+2 sum measurement.
With two equal driver you don´t smooth this.
near a wall, in my case, invers montage sounds better, look the measurements,
no indirect room reflexions above ~2 kHz.
"One question: you typically use cheap FR drivers at the back, would it not sound better to have the same drivers in the front and at the back? "
Today i would prefer the Monacor SPH-210 as the invers back driver,
look the measurements(IMP) you see the front solo measurements with a typical problem,
~3000 Hz, but with a different driver you eleminate it, look 1+2 sum measurement.
With two equal driver you don´t smooth this.
Hmmm well to be honest the fun horns are coming so I decided to take this opportunity to listen to them as I wanted to experience large back horns, its pure indulgeance really.
I was sure that I had reached a point to settle with one pair of speakers and be done with it, a diy pair of Audio-note E's was the plan (they seemed the best all rounder). but a chance to sample the sound of the all fun horn could not be passed.
Audio_D
I really like the BGFun Horns but they are 4'hx18"w x 3' deep and they must weigh over 150 lbs so moving them and setting them up is a pain. WAF is amoung the lowest I've had from any speaker that I've owned but over time even the look of the speaker can grow on you
Hi John Thanks for the info, I know they are massive..I have to get them past the Mrs, i usually tell her when big speakers are coming or being built but will are the most imposing yet.
The Veravox drivers look very nice indeed, I am just looking around for prices
Audio_D
Just save for Lowthers. Fostex FR are very average drivers with gray tone. Ever wondered why nobody serious buys japanese speakers? Get a pair of Lowthers from spoiled/bored american "audiophole" it's usualy half what you'd have to pay in Britain. Not that BLH is a good design , it is not but why make it worse with crap driver? Lowther is a fine midrange driver , nothing less nothing more.
best of luck with your GF (we need it all
best of luck with your GF (we need it all
Thanks for the feedback, Horst. I now understand the reasoning of using 2 different drivers better. And I can imagine why you prefer a bass/mid driver like that Monacor instead an FR unit, in essence to have less treble in the horn channel esp. if you mount the driver in reverse.
Even so, it seems that you run that bass driver unfiltered, right? Wouldn't it be better to have at least a coil to attenuate resonances at the higher frequencies?
"in essence to have less treble in the horn channel esp."
do you read the horn mouth measurements, roll off at ~200 Hz,
the data are much better as an BG20, membran material etc.
"Wouldn't it be better to have at least a coil to attenuate resonances at the higher frequencies? " may be, but if it is not listenabe, why, test it make measurements.
do you read the horn mouth measurements, roll off at ~200 Hz,
the data are much better as an BG20, membran material etc.
"Wouldn't it be better to have at least a coil to attenuate resonances at the higher frequencies? " may be, but if it is not listenabe, why, test it make measurements.
Just save for Lowthers. Fostex FR are very average drivers with gray tone. Ever wondered why nobody serious buys japanese speakers? Get a pair of Lowthers from spoiled/bored american "audiophole" it's usualy half what you'd have to pay in Britain. Not that BLH is a good design , it is not but why make it worse with crap driver? Lowther is a fine midrange driver , nothing less nothing more.
best of luck with your GF (we need it all
Hi thanks.. yes I agree the Lowthers do have the props although ones I have heard have been in Acousta cabs which did not do much for my varied music tastes and a brief listen to Dalek horns which I am due another session with but first impressions were they lacked warmth.
I should decide on which drivers to go for or is it the drivers to avoid for the Fun Horn. I suppose the best I can afford seems like the logical answer, the DX3 seems to be recommended a lot
Hi,
I have listened to a few Lowthers (and many, many other) drivers and have built AllFun Horns myself. I would not recommend Fostex or other variants for these horns. They were specifically designed around the Lowther DX-3 (see paltrow's extensive design paper) and the compression chamber is just so. I've used the DX-3 and DX-4 in mine (new cones). They are simply fabulous. They don't give much to the BigFun Horns, which will go deeper, but are not quite as fast in the lower registers.
I originally used the DX-3 and they were just great. I now have DX-4s and am building some new AllFun Horns (foolishly sold my 1st pair) which, from experience, are top notch. You do need 2 solid corners. Once settled there, they look actually quite small. If there is slight coloration, just put an additional brace near the mouth opening (my 2cents). Enjoy. You'll be hard pressed to find something as engaging.
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