Just getting started. Built out a cutting sheet and full size templates based on the one page PDF from Planet10*, then did the initial cutting over this weekend from a reasonably clean 2'x4' piece of half-inch birch ply found at the Home Despot.
Lots of sanding, fitting and glueing to come, but I'm excited about the potential of these little speakers.
*Big thanks for providing these plans. Please let me know if you have a paypal donations or sales account and if there is a charge for them.
Lots of sanding, fitting and glueing to come, but I'm excited about the potential of these little speakers.
*Big thanks for providing these plans. Please let me know if you have a paypal donations or sales account and if there is a charge for them.
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I don't know if there are official final plans. I interpolated my own cutting sheet from the µFonken* "preliminary release" PDF on this page: Meet the Fonkens
As far as I know, the FF85WK is not shielded. I don't think sunlight is a problem, I just didn't want to leave them unprotected where the toddler, dog, AND sun can beat down on them.
I do not think there are filter requirements for these - I'll be running them exclusively from my laptop though, so I will probably end up generating a custom eq to my own tastes.
As far as I know, the FF85WK is not shielded. I don't think sunlight is a problem, I just didn't want to leave them unprotected where the toddler, dog, AND sun can beat down on them.
I do not think there are filter requirements for these - I'll be running them exclusively from my laptop though, so I will probably end up generating a custom eq to my own tastes.
how much sunlight exposure are we talking about?
yes, the driver is not shielded - none of the WK series are
by requirement for filtering, I assume to mean for BSC and or contour EQ for "FR correction"? I think that's rather subjective
I don't know if there are official final plans. I interpolated my own cutting sheet from the µFonken* "preliminary release" PDF on this page: Meet the Fonkens
As far as I know, the FF85WK is not shielded. I don't think sunlight is a problem, I just didn't want to leave them unprotected where the toddler, dog, AND sun can beat down on them.
I do not think there are filter requirements for these - I'll be running them exclusively from my laptop though, so I will probably end up generating a custom eq to my own tastes.
Be aware that all the drivers in the new WK series required revisions to enclosure volumes and/or tuning. Of course I have access to the new drawings, but am not sure if they've been officially released - sometimes they're posted on this forum long before Dave can get around to updated the commercial sites. (life has a way of disrupting even the best business plan)
If not too late I'd confirm your working drawings with Dave before gluing anything up.
I've built dozens of pairs of these and the slightly larger "milli" series, and would make a couple of suggestions re assembly:
1) line the panels with damping material before final panel is glue up
2) reconsider the terminals from those shown in photo to something that can be attached/removed from the outside of the boxes after assembly - there is very little room for access inside these boxes . We use a cheap recessed plastic cup with 5-way binding posts, and there is a nice and cheap surface mount terminal plate by Parts Express. Both of these have terminals on 3/4" so if you like you can use Pomona or similar dual banana plugs.
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I was thinking if I made a pair for my mother and she put them in her living room, there are glass doors...
Anyway, yeah, I read something about the vent size being slightly different for the WK enclosure. I hope he gets it right. What? A car symbol?
maybe I can save you both the time - a quick review of both drawings shows the following:
overall cabinet dimensions unchanged
reduction of 1mm in the height of port to 12mm - since the port actually continues around the back edge of "shelf", that part and the front panel need to be 1mm longer ( i.e. 109 mm)
(if parts are already cut too short and there's none to spare, a couple of layers of veneer / edge-tape should do the trick)
1 mm decrease in height and 2mm increase in width of single port divider to 12mm x 18mm
and I forgot to mention in the early "suggestions" :
even with 1/2" thick material, it's very important to bevel or round over the back side of driver cutouts - whether with trim router or by hand, this is obviously much easier to do before any assembly
and the brace shown coupling to the magnet - even if shy by a "hair", and serving only to brace the 2 sides and back panel, I'd consider this part important
the FF85Wk will need at least 100hrs of break-in playing time (even just mounted in the cardboard box and played for a few days while you're building the enclosures) before it finally settles in to accurately assess the amount of internal fill deemed necessary and adjust any electronic EQ.
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When i talked to Chris this AM, i hadn't confirmed that there is a revision beyond what he had. In the current plan the vent spacer is 17mm wide.
A mm here or a vent slot shelf 1mm short is not that big a deal.
If anyone wants a plan of the current revision please email me and i'll send a copy.
dave
Fantastic - thank you. Yes, I'm beveling the driver cutout (30 degree via jigsaw).
I've sent Dave my cut sheet as well, and he also had the vent changing to 12mm. Otherwise no major changes.
I will say... bigger boxes are easier... it's hard with my rig to cut these smaller pieces super accurately (less room to clamp the straight edge and square) - but it's a fun challenge.
I've sent Dave my cut sheet as well, and he also had the vent changing to 12mm. Otherwise no major changes.
I will say... bigger boxes are easier... it's hard with my rig to cut these smaller pieces super accurately (less room to clamp the straight edge and square) - but it's a fun challenge.
Hey, is it safe to assume that a router bit will not alter the size of the original hole that you cut out for the driver (like a non-cutting part at the bottom)?
By the way, I read a tip on the burn-in. I read it's a better idea to do it in intervals (i.e., shut them off at night) because 100 hours straight apparently won't have the same effect.
By the way, I read a tip on the burn-in. I read it's a better idea to do it in intervals (i.e., shut them off at night) because 100 hours straight apparently won't have the same effect.
this is the type of bit I use
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
for nominal 1/2" (12mm) material, the gap between bearing and beginning of cutting edge means you can't remove all that much material - for maximum removal, and since my baffles are generally rebated for flush mounting, I usually tape both fronts face to face and clamp to bench to although the bearing to run on the underlying piece
The pin-cushion pattern of Fostex frames should put the mounting screws outside of the extent of the chamfer.
the spectral content and power levels at which they're run is also rather significant
You still have to set the depth properly. If you mis-set the depth, the bearing won't help. The part the bearing is riding on won't change size, but everything above it is fair game.
The best answer to questions like these is to get some scrap and try it out for yourself. More lasting impression that way.
The best answer to questions like these is to get some scrap and try it out for yourself. More lasting impression that way.
preach to the choir brother fastbike - no substitute for experience - after over 10 yrs of fiddling with these Fonken designs (sorry, I just can't resist) and others, I'm still fine tuning my techniques, and wasting the occasional piece of plywood
Did you find it tricky to connect to the Topping amp? Is a bare wire easy to connect?
I'm glad to hear they sound good in cardboard boxes. I know I'll be too lazy to build enclosures for my drivers for a while. Teehee.
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