mMar-Kel70 Build

KyleinCowichan · 18th March 2012, 06:36 AM

Good evening,

I just finished getting one mMar-Kel70 roughed together for a listen. It's built with the recommended 5/8" baltic birch plywood and UltraTouch lined. I'll get the other side together tomorrow and perhaps the trimming as well. I really need a larger chamfer bit though, I think a 3/4" one should see me through most projects.

The -ken enclosures are challenging to build but then results are great. Hopefully this set will be a stepping stone to building a trapezoidal set later this year.

The amp in the last photo is a Helder Hifi TA2020 MKII. Seems to be a good match for the EL70. I am going to get it into an enclosure soon as well.

Kyle

chrisb · 18th March 2012, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyleinCowichan

Good evening,

I just finished getting one mMar-Kel70 roughed together for a listen. It's built with the recommended 5/8" baltic birch plywood and UltraTouch lined. I'll get the other side together tomorrow and perhaps the trimming as well. I really need a larger chamfer bit though, I think a 3/4" one should see me through most projects.

The -ken enclosures are challenging to build but then results are great. Hopefully this set will be a stepping stone to building a trapezoidal set later this year.

The amp in the last photo is a Helder Hifi TA2020 MKII. Seems to be a good match for the EL70. I am going to get it into an enclosure soon as well.

Kyle

looks vaguely familiar

enjoy

KyleinCowichan · 19th March 2012, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisb

looks vaguely familiar

enjoy

They seem to breed like rabbits! Second box assembly tonight with any luck.

KM

fakeout · 19th March 2012, 06:50 PM

Can you say how you made the holes in the baffle (and the groove to have the driver flush with the baffle)? Why are the wooden sticks poking out of the vent?

KyleinCowichan · 19th March 2012, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fakeout

Can you say how you made the holes in the baffle (and the groove to have the driver flush with the baffle)? Why are the wooden sticks poking out of the vent?

The hole in the baffle, I assume you mean the speaker opening, was cut with a router. I have a small jasper jig for guiding the cut. For the EL70 I cut a 4 7/8" by ~1/4 deep inset and a 4" hole. The back of the 4" cut has a 45deg. bevel.

The wooden sticks are the vent spacers that I have yet to trim off! They will be flush with the baffle when complete. The plan for this speaker can be found at the Planet 10 HiFi site.

KM

chrisb · 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fakeout

Can you say how you made the holes in the baffle (and the groove to have the driver flush with the baffle)? Why are the wooden sticks poking out of the vent?

lemme guess:
lotsa ways to cut the rebated driver cut-out - if you don't have access to a CNC, either a home made or Jasper circle jig for router would be the most likely

the port spacers are sticking out 'cause they simply weren't cut off yet, and could be just as easy to trim flush after front panel glued in place

edit - that'll teach me to talk to Dave on the phone while typing a post

nice work Kyle

pps - the bevel to rear side of cut-out is particularly important with drivers of this size

KyleinCowichan · 07:27 PM

;-) Thanks Chris!

Getting a nice chamfer bit for cutting the back side of the speaker opening as well as cutting bevels on sides of the baffle is a great investment. Once the hole is cut running the chamfer bit around with the guiding bearing is dead easy.

As a general question: Is there any downside or concern with using a large chamfer bit for putting a bevel on the baffle edge? Something like 1-1/4"? Am I better off doing that with my table saw?

KM

tuxedocivic · 19th March 2012, 07:35 PM

If you try using your table saw, let me know how that goes

KyleinCowichan · 19th March 2012, 07:53 PM

I might glue some scrap together for a test cut on the table saw. It makes me nervous to send a nearly complete box through the saw.

KM

liamstrain · 19th March 2012, 08:22 PM

When I cut the sides from the stock, I cut with a 45 deg angle to end up with two rows of stock wide enough for the sides, and then straight cut to the correct depth and length. Then I just have to knock off the front corners of the top and bottom pieces.

After the fact I was wondering about that too... table saw with a finished box scared the bejebus out of me.

19th March 2012, 07:27 PM	#7
KyleinCowichan diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Cowichan Bay, BC	;-) Thanks Chris! Getting a nice chamfer bit for cutting the back side of the speaker opening as well as cutting bevels on sides of the baffle is a great investment. Once the hole is cut running the chamfer bit around with the guiding bearing is dead easy. As a general question: Is there any downside or concern with using a large chamfer bit for putting a bevel on the baffle edge? Something like 1-1/4"? Am I better off doing that with my table saw? KM Last edited by KyleinCowichan; 19th March 2012 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Formatting

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Mar-Kel70 in Sweden	Rullknufs	Full Range	1239	30th December 2012 08:52 PM
mMar-Kel70 vs Mar-Kel70	Bigun	Full Range	17	3rd May 2012 08:47 AM
Three flavours of Mar-Kel70 (for EL70)	planet10	Planet 10 hifi	7	17th January 2012 08:15 AM
mMar-Kel70 in Chile	AlejandroR	Full Range	0	17th August 2011 01:56 PM
Do i need to build main supply (240v) filter?Or build power distribution?	thomgun_lc	Chip Amps	9	16th September 2005 09:52 AM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

19th March 2012, 06:50 PM	#4
fakeout diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2012	Can you say how you made the holes in the baffle (and the groove to have the driver flush with the baffle)? Why are the wooden sticks poking out of the vent?

19th March 2012, 07:35 PM	#8
tuxedocivic diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Ladysmith, BC	If you try using your table saw, let me know how that goes

19th March 2012, 07:53 PM	#9
KyleinCowichan diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Cowichan Bay, BC	I might glue some scrap together for a test cut on the table saw. It makes me nervous to send a nearly complete box through the saw. KM

19th March 2012, 08:22 PM	#10
liamstrain diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Chicago	When I cut the sides from the stock, I cut with a 45 deg angle to end up with two rows of stock wide enough for the sides, and then straight cut to the correct depth and length. Then I just have to knock off the front corners of the top and bottom pieces. After the fact I was wondering about that too... table saw with a finished box scared the bejebus out of me.