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Old 18th March 2012, 07:36 AM   #1
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Default mMar-Kel70 Build

Good evening,

I just finished getting one mMar-Kel70 roughed together for a listen. It's built with the recommended 5/8" baltic birch plywood and UltraTouch lined. I'll get the other side together tomorrow and perhaps the trimming as well. I really need a larger chamfer bit though, I think a 3/4" one should see me through most projects.

The -ken enclosures are challenging to build but then results are great. Hopefully this set will be a stepping stone to building a trapezoidal set later this year.

The amp in the last photo is a Helder Hifi TA2020 MKII. Seems to be a good match for the EL70. I am going to get it into an enclosure soon as well.

Kyle
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Old 18th March 2012, 08:27 AM   #2
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleinCowichan View Post
Good evening,

I just finished getting one mMar-Kel70 roughed together for a listen. It's built with the recommended 5/8" baltic birch plywood and UltraTouch lined. I'll get the other side together tomorrow and perhaps the trimming as well. I really need a larger chamfer bit though, I think a 3/4" one should see me through most projects.

The -ken enclosures are challenging to build but then results are great. Hopefully this set will be a stepping stone to building a trapezoidal set later this year.

The amp in the last photo is a Helder Hifi TA2020 MKII. Seems to be a good match for the EL70. I am going to get it into an enclosure soon as well.

Kyle

looks vaguely familiar

enjoy
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Old 19th March 2012, 07:43 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
looks vaguely familiar

enjoy
They seem to breed like rabbits! Second box assembly tonight with any luck.

KM
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Old 19th March 2012, 07:50 PM   #4
fakeout is offline fakeout  Canada
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Can you say how you made the holes in the baffle (and the groove to have the driver flush with the baffle)? Why are the wooden sticks poking out of the vent?
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Old 19th March 2012, 07:58 PM   #5
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Can you say how you made the holes in the baffle (and the groove to have the driver flush with the baffle)? Why are the wooden sticks poking out of the vent?
The hole in the baffle, I assume you mean the speaker opening, was cut with a router. I have a small jasper jig for guiding the cut. For the EL70 I cut a 4 7/8" by ~1/4 deep inset and a 4" hole. The back of the 4" cut has a 45deg. bevel.

The wooden sticks are the vent spacers that I have yet to trim off! They will be flush with the baffle when complete. The plan for this speaker can be found at the Planet 10 HiFi site.

KM
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Old 19th March 2012, 08:07 PM   #6
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by fakeout View Post
Can you say how you made the holes in the baffle (and the groove to have the driver flush with the baffle)? Why are the wooden sticks poking out of the vent?
lemme guess:
lotsa ways to cut the rebated driver cut-out - if you don't have access to a CNC, either a home made or Jasper circle jig for router would be the most likely

the port spacers are sticking out 'cause they simply weren't cut off yet, and could be just as easy to trim flush after front panel glued in place


edit - that'll teach me to talk to Dave on the phone while typing a post

nice work Kyle

pps - the bevel to rear side of cut-out is particularly important with drivers of this size
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Last edited by chrisb; 19th March 2012 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 19th March 2012, 08:27 PM   #7
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;-) Thanks Chris!

Getting a nice chamfer bit for cutting the back side of the speaker opening as well as cutting bevels on sides of the baffle is a great investment. Once the hole is cut running the chamfer bit around with the guiding bearing is dead easy.

As a general question: Is there any downside or concern with using a large chamfer bit for putting a bevel on the baffle edge? Something like 1-1/4"? Am I better off doing that with my table saw?

KM

Last edited by KyleinCowichan; 19th March 2012 at 08:27 PM. Reason: Formatting
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Old 19th March 2012, 08:35 PM   #8
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If you try using your table saw, let me know how that goes
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Old 19th March 2012, 08:53 PM   #9
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I might glue some scrap together for a test cut on the table saw. It makes me nervous to send a nearly complete box through the saw.

KM
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Old 19th March 2012, 09:22 PM   #10
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When I cut the sides from the stock, I cut with a 45 deg angle to end up with two rows of stock wide enough for the sides, and then straight cut to the correct depth and length. Then I just have to knock off the front corners of the top and bottom pieces.

After the fact I was wondering about that too... table saw with a finished box scared the bejebus out of me.
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