Ladies & Gentlemen - The Emken

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Well, with the weekend being so fine, nothing got done - tradesman has to have his time out.
Matt got back from a morning job, knocked on for me and we set up, 3/4hr later and we're 1/3 way through the panels, we had to pack away for an hour and some cos of a shower.
Better get tea brewed and back out there.
Matt cut one panel (rip) and it had a 1.5mm bow in the middle, 'That's piddled me off that has' in a thick northern accent - this was for the sides, now to be the back.
will report more later..........
I'm a happy bunny :)
 
Well, we dodged the showers and got all the panels cut apart from the porting / vent parts.
About 3hrs of work so far, this including knocking up some support to span the trestles. Tomorrow will be bevel cuts, routing the aperture for drive units / fitting t-nuts and ripping stock for port / vent and corner battens.
As we have all seen oblong bits of plywood before and Matt the carpenter is camera shy, I have not taken pictures.
To see what my pile looks like, look at JKRO's pics at the head of this thread - only notable difference is that my inner vent / port wall is divided into three to facilitate LF tuning.
I will take a few pics as I assemble.
Report over.
 
good move there mate!

sorry I didn't get back to you on the phase plugs. Mine are made of walnut. The guy just knocked them up from what he had in stock so no clue as to the dims. needed for the blank prior to turning

do you definitely want to use your wood or shall I just get him to turn a pair from something like walnut? I think I have a block here he could use if you like?
 
*prepares the firing squad.......

No worries JKRO, 3 days feels like a mere moment.
Hmmm, decisions......There's no uber burning rush, when I ordered the drive units and other bits, they got delivered to my parents as couriers sometimes cant find where I live, they went away Friday for 6wks (Turkey), so I wont have The tweeters for a while, I intended initially to just to listen to the stock 12lta's for a week or so and go from there with up-grading / adding to, note in triplicate etc.
Best ask your man what he needs just in case your bit isn't big enough (don't forget to ask about re-numeration), my lump is 480 x 200 x 400 so there is plenty of stock to cut from, only downside is extra postage if I send stock to you.
 
Can the holes in the brace be square windows?

Yes, they're called 'window braces' ;), just make the corners a large radius, so there's no potentially weak corner junctions.

Ideally, you want amorphous pattern cutouts to ensure maximum strength with the least air flow disruption and most diffusive eigenmodes within them.

There's probably some math to define the ideal radius/pattern shape, but I just used a doorknob hole cutter the few times I made them before switching to a dowel 'X' framework attached to panel stiffeners.

GM
 
If you look at a single round hole in a brace as four cantilever bridges, you'll see that this makes a pretty good brace without a lot of trouble. Panel stiffening, however, is far more important than tying panels together. The "holey brace" does both, but a couple of dowels between the panel stiffeners would be much easier and nearly as effective.

Bob
 
The end of another half days work (ish):
All large panels cut, driver holes routed though no rebate as the t-nuts would not have enough material round them for my liking - Matt spotted this and said best bet is to laminate an extra panel to make said at a later date.
Tomorrows jobs: Chop vent walls / extensions to length, cut holes in brace / driver cut back (I had a lucky find - 2 thin jig-saw blades in the bottom of my tool box), rip stock for spacers / battens, sink t-nuts and start slopping glue, pinning and clamping.
There's a slim chance they will be in operation by the weekend, if not by the end off.
On the subject of the holes, would one actually be able to hear this 'Eigenmode'?
How about a 90deg round over but alternating the side that's rounded?
Or is this a bit too much fuss?
 
Welllllll....
P10 design sheet calls for front to back and side to side braces, the latter sit in the lower half of the enclosure - I guess once the port length has been sorted and these cross's added, the upper walls can be braced with dowels = not cause reflections back through the drive units cone.
 
Or is this a bit too much fuss?

Well done mate!! I would say do what you can - I doubt either of us would hear the difference but its nice to know you've done what you could.

Just get 'em finished, heft them into place, plug 'em in and let rip!! Maybe warn your neighbour you will be playing 'enthusiastically'

Pick your first track carefully - something with great attack will put a grin on your face :D
 
frugal-phile™
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If you look at a single round hole in a brace as four cantilever bridges, you'll see that this makes a pretty good brace without a lot of trouble. Panel stiffening, however, is far more important than tying panels together. The "holey brace" does both, but a couple of dowels between the panel stiffeners would be much easier and nearly as effective.

The goal is to push panel resonance as high as possible. They results from Tappan's AES paper

Tappan-braces.gif


dave
 
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