I love the direction things are going with this amp.
Topping TP32 Class T Digital Amp with USB and Remote 15WPC 310-316
For hi eff fullrange drivers these T-amps are GREAT! I've been enjoying my cheapie Sonic Impacts and Daytons as well as the more expensive Dayton (but i understand not so well built on the inside - tho beautiful on the outside) and sounds fantastic!
But this new Topping with a cool digital readout and a remote control (which i bet i'd never use anyway bc i enjoy fiddling with my gear) looks so NICE!
Zilla
Topping TP32 Class T Digital Amp with USB and Remote 15WPC 310-316
For hi eff fullrange drivers these T-amps are GREAT! I've been enjoying my cheapie Sonic Impacts and Daytons as well as the more expensive Dayton (but i understand not so well built on the inside - tho beautiful on the outside) and sounds fantastic!
But this new Topping with a cool digital readout and a remote control (which i bet i'd never use anyway bc i enjoy fiddling with my gear) looks so NICE!
Zilla
looks great! 
I have information that the model with those copper Aircoils is the best
NEW Indeed Class T Amp Tripath TA2021 25WX2 Amplifier improved 20000 Mfd BC Cap | eBay
I don't know how this cyber Topping is
I have information that the model with those copper Aircoils is the best
NEW Indeed Class T Amp Tripath TA2021 25WX2 Amplifier improved 20000 Mfd BC Cap | eBay
I don't know how this cyber Topping is
looks great!
I have information that the model with those copper Aircoils is the best
NEW Indeed Class T Amp Tripath TA2021 25WX2 Amplifier improved 20000 Mfd BC Cap | eBay
I don't know how this cyber Topping is
new, indeed!
how many yen, yuan or won would it take to get your own name engraved on the front panel of a "custom OEM" (read "same as all the rest?") amp
something about wine, bottle?
that said, this latest flock of offerings from Lepai, Topping, Dayton's house label, etc are so cheap that shipping and brokerage fee if sent across the 49th via UPS could cost more than the product
LOL, agreed about that 6 watts! But i like the casing and hope the trend will be towards the more powerful T-amps like the $100 Dayton (which is very businesslike and cool IMO). Beware tho, the $100 is suitable for speakers that go down to 6ohm... NOT 4ohm.
There are flaws but as the designs progress i expect most/all will be fixed.
Then we'll have 'perfect sound forever' LOL... well, pretty darn good sound anyways.
Zilla
There are flaws but as the designs progress i expect most/all will be fixed.
Then we'll have 'perfect sound forever' LOL... well, pretty darn good sound anyways.
Zilla
Bob, I bought the Topping TP-60. The first one I bought kept going into protection mode so I had to send it back. The second one is just fine. Thank God I got the amp from Parts Express, I paid more for it but had no problems with exchanging it.
This is the only amp of its kind I have or have heard. I would describe it as sounding solid state but without the how should I put it, harshness of solid state. I contribute it to the MOSFET design. I think that is why it sounds more tube like, but it doesn't have the lushness some tube amps have.
A keeper in my estimation. You can listen to it for hours and not want to turn it off. It doesn't sound like it has much power until you start cranking it up then the bass and treble start coming out. I'm using it with my MK 7.3's in BIB's and I think it is the amp and not the speakers that is causing this as other amps don't seem to do this. I'm not complaining or knocking the amp just an observation. Other amps may have wider sound stage but this amp is not closed in and it has good separation and clear voice.
I have a pair of those TB W4-1879's coming, will see how the amp and speakers get along together.
Kenny,
The lushness you describe is even order distortion characteristic of SE amps is particular. The harshness you discribe is typical of SS amps with large amounts of feedback. The TP-60 has neither. I guess that means it has not character at all. And isn't that what you want in an amp?
Bob
The lushness you describe is even order distortion characteristic of SE amps is particular. The harshness you discribe is typical of SS amps with large amounts of feedback. The TP-60 has neither. I guess that means it has not character at all. And isn't that what you want in an amp?
Bob
improving the sound of most any T-amp (or D-amp)
Drop the supply voltage. Using 12-14.4 VDC (automotive "smart" battery charger at 2A), resulted in a lower output with the excellent Virtue Audio M451 Sensation amp, BUT it reduced any possible background noise to zero. Or use a fully charged automotive sealed gel battery for the power supply.
The effect was not subtle with the Sensation (a fine amp), and was a significant step up from the stock SMPS and was better (IMHO) than the optional Dodd Audio battery power supply (24VDC).
I think that the M451/smart charger combination is an almost "perfect" match to the MA CHR-70eN drivers from p10.
Drop the supply voltage. Using 12-14.4 VDC (automotive "smart" battery charger at 2A), resulted in a lower output with the excellent Virtue Audio M451 Sensation amp, BUT it reduced any possible background noise to zero. Or use a fully charged automotive sealed gel battery for the power supply.
The effect was not subtle with the Sensation (a fine amp), and was a significant step up from the stock SMPS and was better (IMHO) than the optional Dodd Audio battery power supply (24VDC).
I think that the M451/smart charger combination is an almost "perfect" match to the MA CHR-70eN drivers from p10.
Bob, I agree with everything you say. But I also believe you can have such a clean amp or system that it sucks all the character or life out of the music. I'm talking about a system that is so dull but clean you just want to turn it off. This is an individual personal thing so I have a hard time explaining it sometimes. To me the TP-60 is on the verge of that, too clean. But still a good sounding amp. To me a system has to have soul so you can tap you foot and get into the music. Speakers are like that also, as some say about the paper MK's, nice to listen to I've heard but haven't experienced them myself.
Kenny
Kenny,
And I agree with what you say. But....
Yes, a total system that is dead flat in-room is uninspiring. But speakers and rooms are inherently anything but flat. So, my idea is to have everything up to the speakers as flat as possible and then to play with the speakers and EQ to get a sound I like. It's kind of like an artist starting with a clean white canvass.
Bob
And I agree with what you say. But....
Yes, a total system that is dead flat in-room is uninspiring. But speakers and rooms are inherently anything but flat. So, my idea is to have everything up to the speakers as flat as possible and then to play with the speakers and EQ to get a sound I like. It's kind of like an artist starting with a clean white canvass.
Bob
looks great!
I have information that the model with those copper Aircoils is the best
NEW Indeed Class T Amp Tripath TA2021 25WX2 Amplifier improved 20000 Mfd BC Cap | eBay
I don't know how this cyber Topping is
How does the Indeed TA2021S differ from the standard Topping TP21 besides the lack of a headphone jack and what would be the ultimate power supply for this particular amplifier?
answer could be "not much"
there was an old joke about "only 2 factories in nnn country - one that makes the amps, and one that makes the face plates"
seriously though - a question - just how many of you guys & gals choose to listen to headphones / earbuds ? I avoid them whenever possible - except for example while on an airplane. I'd far rather have a decent volume control that tracks accurately throughout its rotation and doesn't wear out / get noisy than a separate buffered headphone amp.
i have had many different setups and have heard several. not hundreds
currently using a AUdioGD nfb12 with a nelson pass f5 - usher8945 usher 9950. DT990's 600ohm
i will never go backwards.
started with senn HD280 and fio e7. (better than m-audio interfaces.. and topping tp30)
got the nfb12. (never needed more)
lm1875 (braitn gt with Panasonic) great mid response.
lm3886(briant gt with Panasonic) dynamic
sure electronics 2x100. could not compare to braingt.
lm3886(briant gt with dale, elna silk simic II) warm and my favorite.
pass f5 just destroyed everything. close to ^
currently using a AUdioGD nfb12 with a nelson pass f5 - usher8945 usher 9950. DT990's 600ohm
i will never go backwards.
started with senn HD280 and fio e7. (better than m-audio interfaces.. and topping tp30)
got the nfb12. (never needed more)
lm1875 (braitn gt with Panasonic) great mid response.
lm3886(briant gt with Panasonic) dynamic
sure electronics 2x100. could not compare to braingt.
lm3886(briant gt with dale, elna silk simic II) warm and my favorite.
pass f5 just destroyed everything. close to ^
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Kenny,
And I agree with what you say. But....
Yes, a total system that is dead flat in-room is uninspiring. But speakers and rooms are inherently anything but flat. So, my idea is to have everything up to the speakers as flat as possible and then to play with the speakers and EQ to get a sound I like. It's kind of like an artist starting with a clean white canvass.
Bob
That's a good way to get to the sound you desire.
We may be talking about a total different way we have our systems set up. I use a tube preamp, tube CD player and a turntable. You may use a computer and DAC, I don't know how your system is set up. I try not to use zobel's or BSC's. I have always heard these in the path and don't like what I hear. The same with crossovers. I went to active crossovers because I didn't like the effects the crossover had in the circuit. That's why I went to full range speakers to get rid of anything in the path like capacitors, inductors, resistors and L pads
I use the components, tube rolling, speakers, speaker cabinets and room placement to get the sound I desire.
It's all in the end getting the sound you are seeking.
Kenny
Kenny,
You are right --we approach the problem differently. All of my CD's are ripped to HD, along with any number of 24/88 and 24/96 downloads. The music player is Foobar2000, which converts everything to 32-bit floating point prior to applying DSP. EQ and volume control are applied and the results output as 24/96 to the DAC. The DAC I use most often is an M-Audio Ultra Trak Pro, although I will sometimes use a Dayton $39.95 DAC and I really can't tell the difference. The interconnects between the DAC and the TP-60 are my only extravagance -- silver in teflon. I thought I heard a difference once and I keep using them. Speaker wires are either 16ga 3-wire extension cords or 8-wire CAT5.
If you buy one of my commercial speakers, it will contain a BSC and possibly a zobel, but not my personal speakers. I do not use any passive components between the amp and the speakers. I don't need to. All of the EQ is done digitally -- Bass high-pass, BSC, treble contouring, the works.
Bob
You are right --we approach the problem differently. All of my CD's are ripped to HD, along with any number of 24/88 and 24/96 downloads. The music player is Foobar2000, which converts everything to 32-bit floating point prior to applying DSP. EQ and volume control are applied and the results output as 24/96 to the DAC. The DAC I use most often is an M-Audio Ultra Trak Pro, although I will sometimes use a Dayton $39.95 DAC and I really can't tell the difference. The interconnects between the DAC and the TP-60 are my only extravagance -- silver in teflon. I thought I heard a difference once and I keep using them. Speaker wires are either 16ga 3-wire extension cords or 8-wire CAT5.
If you buy one of my commercial speakers, it will contain a BSC and possibly a zobel, but not my personal speakers. I do not use any passive components between the amp and the speakers. I don't need to. All of the EQ is done digitally -- Bass high-pass, BSC, treble contouring, the works.
Bob
I'm tempted with a Topping or equivalent T-amp <£100 (but needs 2 inputs) so something like a TP32
I'd be using to drive speakers for my computer/360 setup, what sort of sensitivity should I look for in small speakers to be driven by it ? I don't want to spend a fortune on the speakers, and most seemtobe <90dB sensitivity ?
I'll only be sitting less than a metre away from the speakers so I don't need tonnes of power, but I'd like to get good sound quality.
thanks for any help
I'd be using to drive speakers for my computer/360 setup, what sort of sensitivity should I look for in small speakers to be driven by it ? I don't want to spend a fortune on the speakers, and most seemtobe <90dB sensitivity ?
I'll only be sitting less than a metre away from the speakers so I don't need tonnes of power, but I'd like to get good sound quality.
thanks for any help
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