sometimes it's hard to tell from photo thumbnails exactly what drivers are involved / or scale of enclosure - and if one (me) is too lazy to follow up - anyway, are you aware of the cost of these drivers? They do sound gorgeous, but current retail approx $500 US each, and any enclosure ( BLH/MLTL/ Open Baffle with woofers) in which they'll deliver their value won't be compact.
Fostex F200A 8" Full Range with Alnico magnet: Madisound Speaker Store
as for the second one
There are any number far less wasteful, and very likely superior sounding enclosure designs around for a first time build, either in simple free-ware DIY plans, or flat-pak kits.
paralysis by analysis is certainly one of the risks of googling
I've been looking but I can't remember where I read about one of the often-recommended speakers here and someone said that it was shielded. Does anyone remember which one it was? (I suspect it was maybe the CSS EL70 but didn't find shielded in the description.)
Anyway, are there any techniques to keep polyfill away from the drivers? What is the risk? Will it burn? Can you get electrocuted by touching a binding post?
I orderded a pair of $7 speakers and Lepai amp so I can start experiementing with cardboard boxes etc. But, I bought them partly to force myself to learn more because I don't even know how to use a soldering iron at this point. (Too bad you can't find a small AM/FM receiver like the small Lepai amp.)
Anyway, are there any techniques to keep polyfill away from the drivers? What is the risk? Will it burn? Can you get electrocuted by touching a binding post?
I orderded a pair of $7 speakers and Lepai amp so I can start experiementing with cardboard boxes etc. But, I bought them partly to force myself to learn more because I don't even know how to use a soldering iron at this point. (Too bad you can't find a small AM/FM receiver like the small Lepai amp.)
the only "risk" I can foresee would be distortions resulting from overstuffing to the point that fibers actually touch the rear of cone or occlude a vented voice coil, which wouldn't be the case with any of these drivers.
Yes this material is combustible if ignited, but for that to occur you've got much bigger problems to worry about.
not at amplifier output/speaker input
one step at a time - we've all been there
Hazaa! Finally found an American-made smaller horn: the Fostex BK-10. 
But, it seems no longer available.
pics:
Fostex BK10 kit
I wonder if it would be worth it to try a cardboard version.
But, it seems no longer available. pics:
Fostex BK10 kit
I wonder if it would be worth it to try a cardboard version.
Hazaa! Finally found an American-made smaller horn: the Fostex BK-10.
pics:
Fostex BK10 kit
I wonder if it would be worth it to try a cardboard version.
Here is a plan for the similar BK 101 (couldn't immediately find a detailed plan for BK 10):
http://www.pirkensee.de/Downloads/BK Horn 101.pdf
Both are old designs for the Fostex FE103. As written before, do not assume that it will sound ok with your $7 drivers. Cabinet substitution is one of those wishful dreams. It should be acceptable with the more recent FE103E and FE103En though.
For your $7 speakers, if you do not have detailed parameters to simulate, then just put them in a small closed box.
If you want to build the BK 101 (which, by the way is Japanese, not American, since you seem to find that important), then buy the FE103En. Don't bother trying to make it in cardboard, it will be a waste of time.
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Hazaa! Finally found an American-made smaller horn: the Fostex BK-10.
pics:
Fostex BK10 kit
I wonder if it would be worth it to try a cardboard version.
Quite a few years ago I built several of the smaller "official" Fostex BLH, including the one pictured, the FE126E "hybrid", and at least one other, as well numerous other larger ones along the way.
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but little "Horns" of this category/size can easily be outperformed in the lower frequencies by simple vented or even sealed enclosures.
And as Talaerts notes, while cardboard can be useful to mock up size/aesthetic treatments, and even work as temporary OB or baffle extension, don't waste your time trying to build a functioning BLH - structural integrity and airtight joints are particularly important with this type of enclosure, and that's pretty hard to attain with cardboard and duct tape.
Well, you didn't completely rain on my parade if you saved me some time. So I got my solen.ca order of Veravox 3X and Visaton R10SC (and other things like lamb wool, etc). There are "ATD" stickers on it. Does anyone know which company this is? There's also a plastic ring on top of the drivers. Is this just part of the packaging or do I use them in the installation? An even funnier part about this is the fact there are no mounting holes on the Veravox 3X. BTW, the Veravox 3X looks a little like the drivers in my Creative T12 speakers except they're larger.
Yeah, I might not get the best bass. But, from messages I read, the Veravox 3X has better bass than a Fostex FF85K. And because of my neighbor, I'm at least a little hesitant to buy a driver with much more powerful bass. I could be wrong about that though, maybe a CSS EL70 at volume 4, 5 or 6 wouldn't be too much in a Fonken cabinet. I'm pretty sure from the descriptions I read though that a horn might be a bit much.
By the way, I just posted a message in the multi-way forum to answer a question about ATD. Apparently, they made drivers for speakers selling for several thousand dollars. So, it doesn't surprise me some people said they prefered the Veravox 5X (which appears no longer available).
I might start trying WinISD once I read "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook". I haven't read the book yet because I'm almost addicted to searching old threads here for now. Haha.
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