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Old 10th October 2014, 01:29 PM   #241
Louds1 is offline Louds1  Czech Republic
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Thank you for your advice and insights, we greatly appreciate it.

Currently I play FE103 and I'll be honest, highs are perfect for me. Larger Fostex've never heard of and in combination FE206 + Kirishima I have no idea of ​​the quality and level of the higher frequencies. I am concerned that if I add a tweeter, only 6 db filter begins to sound even lower tones and it will not make goodness. On the other hand, can deliver a precision reproduction of the heights. I heard SuperTweeterTM the more expensive KEF speakers and I must say I was pleasantly surprised truly luxurious experience, no experience of the phase shift on the heights.
If you decide to repro height, do you think that FT17 is the right choice? The more expensive model it would be a problem for me. On the Internet I came across a manufacturer JLA Acoustique, uses high-rise from BEYMA with higher sensitivity, do you think that a good alternative?

Peter
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Old 11th October 2014, 02:28 PM   #242
DrBoar is offline DrBoar  Sweden
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There are at least two ways to go about this.
1. Add a "proper" tweeter with crossover integrating it with the fullrange/wide range driver. Something like the Beyma CP-25 or CP-21. Here the crossover and integration is critical
2. An other option, that was used in the Duelund horns was to add a tweeter at a level well below the output of the full range driver. On axis response is totaly dominated by the fullrange driver. But well off axis the small tweeter fills in where the fullrange is weak due to strong beaming. Here a ordinary dome tweeter will do and integrations is less critical as the tweeter just works as a filler driver of the of axis response.

Hardly any drivers works with 6 dB highpass filters, I would use 12 or 24 dB filters.
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Old 28th December 2016, 08:46 PM   #243
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Seems like an interesting option I am planning for my 126's.

How does one fine-tune the stuffing? Seems the chambers would be inaccessible after complete glue up. I'm assuming I can leave the front panel unglued, e.g. clamped, while adjusting the filling?

Has someone tried this approach?
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