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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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I just finished a pair of Mar-Ken7.3 cabinets and I must say that I really like the sound so far.
It is very clear and precise at the suggested low levels, just what I am after with the music I mainly play (classical guitar etc). The bass in somewhat less than my jr149 speakers and not as warm, but I guess it is too early to compare. I do already prefer the clarity of the MA7.3. My only question with these cabinets is, why is the vent to the rear and not the front. I almost prefer the sound of these speakers from behind. Just a newby question, sorry in advance. Maybe I need to play with room placement some more. Currently I am just playing them in. Jeremy |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Jeremy,
How many hours do you have on the speakers? |
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#3 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
I realize that Dave has drafted many more versions of "Ken" family than I've seen, or certainly built, but out of curiosity which design has vents to the rear? As Zia has already suggested, run them in per Mark's recommendations hours before final assessment: Quote:
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#4 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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The only dMK7.3 that vents out the back is the narrow CGR, and they can be vented out the front, back, top or bottom. The current (free) drawing has 4 versions with wide vented out the side or front, and the narrow venting out the front or back.
THis drawing did go thu a significant number of revisions. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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I have only put <10 hours on the speakers so far.
The plan I have is the Slim classic GR dMar-Ken7.3 2v1 as pictured below. Is this not the best design for these speakers?
Last edited by jjl; 31st January 2012 at 08:43 PM. Reason: edit url |
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#6 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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You have a lot of breakin to go.
That is 1 of the 4 CGRs in the free planset. Choice of wide or narrow and where the vent goes are both aesthetic & room related. The harder to build rectangular & trapezoidal enclosures in the paid planset have an edge -- same tuning but lower diffraction signature & with the trapezoid, the non-parallel sidewalls help with side-to-side standing waves. The CGRs will have a bit fatter bass because the vent is not as constricted. ![]() dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
the traps for any driver (ie Fostex FF125WK as well) would definitely be my choice sonically and aesthetically, but they're not the easiest of builds, particularly for a newbie.
__________________
you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Still enjoying listening to the CG dMar-Ken73 but I have a set of the trap plans now and today went and got the 18mm ply. The joints are not a problem, I make guitars for a living and there is not one square joint anywhere.
It will be interesting to compare the two designs side by side when I finish them. One question, the rubber seal under the 7.3 (where they are screwed into the baffle), is it sufficient, it appears very thin and am I looking for a perfect seal at this point. If I need to make the rebate with a perfect base then I will use something other than a router or at least finish the joint better. Thanks Last edited by jjl; 2nd February 2012 at 06:05 AM. Reason: spelling mistakes |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Mark's integral super-gaskets are thicker than they first appear and are more than sufficient How exactly would you cleanly mortise the rebate if not by hand-held router/ CNC? Clearly I'm spoiled by having access to the latter for most of my machining, but occasionally ( after hours or on weekends) I'll need to do one by hand. For those I use a router with large diameter top bearing mortising bit and MDF pattern. It takes longer to jig up and align/ clamp the pattern in place than it does to actually route the rebate.
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#10 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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