Alpair 10.2 in 8 liter sealed - Too good to be true? - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 20th January 2012, 03:43 PM   #21
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottmoose View Post
MDF is hard?

dense - certainly, and I've got scars to attest that the heat tempered surface is hard enough to hold a sharp enough edge to do serious damage to flesh, but once that layer's removed by sanding, the underlying core is soft enough to easily be crushed and cut edges can be scratched with a fingernail; and rigid? not so much
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Old 20th January 2012, 04:04 PM   #22
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Average ~67% of the ridigity of BB ply IIRC, thickness for thickness. I think we've been here before though, so best not get onto that one again...

Yeah, I've sliced my arm wide open on MDF edges before now. Not much fun.
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Old 20th January 2012, 04:07 PM   #23
rongon is offline rongon  United States
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Hmmm... That heat tempered surface fooled me. So, only sharp-edged cuts advisable in MDF?

From what I've seen, there should be a chamfer (is that the correct term?) on the back edge of the mounting hole cutout to allow a little air flow around the basket. If I round off that edge, is it likely to crumble?

I have some leftovers from "Handy Panels" from Home Depot. Avoid at all costs?

Or maybe just worth experimenting with...

There are bamboo 'butcher block' cutting boards in all the dollar stores...

--

Last edited by rongon; 20th January 2012 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 20th January 2012, 04:40 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by rongon View Post

But my surprise was at why a softwood would be preferable to birch ply.
In Bernie's case he loves to work in solid. He started with the fir because it has been aging for some 70 years + (it was his hardwood gloor).

The comparison of Mar-Ken12T in fir vrs plywood had the fir showing a bit of (euphoruc) colouration the ply did not have. But cosmetic appeal/WAF!!!

We now also have locust, yew and now western red cedar boxes. The cedar are very interesting.

Bernie is talking about yellow cedar next (yellow cedar is not a cedar)

dave
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Old 20th January 2012, 04:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by rongon View Post
There are bamboo 'butcher block' cutting boards in all the dollar stores...
Bamboo is very good. Butcher block is a step up from flooring but not up to the lowest grade of plywood.

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Old 20th January 2012, 05:49 PM   #26
rongon is offline rongon  United States
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I took a closer look at the bamboo cutting board in the kitchen. It's laminated bamboo, three plies, 1/2" thick. Probably cost $10. It's 12" x 15". My speaker cabs' baffles are roughly 8.5" x 14.5".
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Old 20th January 2012, 05:55 PM   #27
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongon View Post
Hmmm... That heat tempered surface fooled me. So, only sharp-edged cuts advisable in MDF?

From what I've seen, there should be a chamfer (is that the correct term?) on the back edge of the mounting hole cutout to allow a little air flow around the basket. If I round off that edge, is it likely to crumble?

I have some leftovers from "Handy Panels" from Home Depot. Avoid at all costs?

Or maybe just worth experimenting with...

There are bamboo 'butcher block' cutting boards in all the dollar stores...

--

Without stepping on the soap box, I avoid MDF for speaker enclosures whenever possible - it's not without advantages from a manufacturing / finishing point of view - great machine-ability compared to plywoods, and for that matter a lot of solid soft or hardwoods, but sonically even chipboard ( i.e. particle board - remember "K3"?) "sounds better". I exclusively use quality multiple layer plywood - i.e. Baltic/Russian/Finnish birch, Appleply, Murphy Hardwood Multiply - and no doubt there are other regionally distributed brand names.

Unsupported thin and highly profiled edges on MDF are prone to breakage - what I was trying to point out is that only a very thin layer under the tempered surface of even the best quality MDF is hard. Also be aware that not all MDF panels are engineered or created equal - from Fire-rated to moisture resistant to ultra-lite to super cheap quality, the mechanical properties can vary significantly.
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Old 20th January 2012, 06:16 PM   #28
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This driver has that wonderful Fs of 35.386 which drives down the EBP to 86.3.......making it suitable to be run in a sealed...I got .3222311...Cubic feet for sealed. Great driver that can go either way!
On the wood front...I'll harp again on my favorite wood that most nations cannot get due to export laws here. Quebracho AKA "Axe Breaker" (Colorado red) An "Ironwood" that grows almost exclusively down here. It has export restrictions here but we have it for firewood....go figure. I will be using it for my tube-amp base....as if my amp won't weigh enough. Try to hammer a nail in the stuff(Used for outdoor fenceposts)...it gets in about 6mm & bends your nail, irregardless how big a nail you use!


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Last edited by Richard Ellis; 20th January 2012 at 06:18 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 20th January 2012, 06:29 PM   #29
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Ellis View Post
This driver has that wonderful Fs of 35.386 which drives down the EBP to 86.3.......making it suitable to be run in a sealed...I got .3222311...Cubic feet for sealed. Great driver that can go either way!
On the wood front...I'll harp again on my favorite wood that most nations cannot get due to export laws here. Quebracho AKA "Axe Breaker" (Colorado red) An "Ironwood" that grows almost exclusively down here. It has export restrictions here but we have it for firewood....go figure. I will be using it for my tube-amp base....as if my amp won't weigh enough. Try to hammer a nail in the stuff(Used for outdoor fenceposts)...it gets in about 6mm & bends your nail, irregardless how big a nail you use!

__________________________________________________ ___Rick.........

so how is it on high speed tooling, and what are movement /shrinkage properties like for making a speaker box?
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Old 20th January 2012, 06:43 PM   #30
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The Home Depot' near me carry a very good quality ply that i would put against the baltic birch 5' x 5' I have bought. I have cut up 3 sheets of it in both 1/2" and 3/4", and have yet to find an air pocket. Yet to find anything like it at lowes. the 1/2" is $40 compared to $90-$110 for baltic birch and you get more on top of that. It is not likely that you will build just one pair. I use either 3/4" ply or solid lumber for baffles. FYI, I do not have 1/100th the experience of any of these other guys, but i have yet to hear a significant difference if cabinet is well made and braced.
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