I have bought a pair of Audio Nirvana Standard 8 drivers and a pair of Bicor 250 back loaded horn cabinets. The horns were intended for Lowther drivers, but they are told to work well with AN as well. They do, but are lacking in the bass range. The tiny Dayton Needles I built have much, much more bass than these huge speakers
Commonsense audio advises to use the AN's in bass reflex enclosures. Since I don't have a large house and the WAF of the huge horn cabinets is very low, I want to build a pair of new enclosures for these drivers.
I very much like the design of the 'Solo 103'. Would such a design with openings in top and bottom of the baffle be possible for an 8 inch fullrange driver? And could anybody with experience and design software help me?
Solo 103:
Commonsense audio advises to use the AN's in bass reflex enclosures. Since I don't have a large house and the WAF of the huge horn cabinets is very low, I want to build a pair of new enclosures for these drivers.
I very much like the design of the 'Solo 103'. Would such a design with openings in top and bottom of the baffle be possible for an 8 inch fullrange driver? And could anybody with experience and design software help me?
Solo 103:
I have bought a pair of Audio Nirvana Standard 8 drivers and a pair of Bicor 250 back loaded horn cabinets. The horns were intended for Lowther drivers, but they are told to work well with AN as well. They do, but are lacking in the bass range. The tiny Dayton Needles I built have much, much more bass than these huge speakers
View attachment 260136
View attachment 260137
Commonsense audio advises to use the AN's in bass reflex enclosures. Since I don't have a large house and the WAF of the huge horn cabinets is very low, I want to build a pair of new enclosures for these drivers.
I very much like the design of the 'Solo 103'. Would such a design with openings in top and bottom of the baffle be possible for an 8 inch fullrange driver? And could anybody with experience and design software help me?
Solo 103:
View attachment 260135
This format of multiple high aspect ratio slot ports can certainly work well (I've built a fair number along these lines over the past few years, with drivers up to 6.5" )
On taller enclosures, the port slots might end up configured along the sides,
Fostex FE167E / Fonken :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
or alternatively in an MLTL, as single slot at the bottom.
Mark Audio Alpair 12 SuperPensil
If the manufacturer's published T/S parameters can be trusted, or if you have real world measures for your exact pair, there are folks here that'd likely be happy to calculate a design that could work better than the Bicors or a bog stock BR enclosure.
It might seem obvious that simply "adapting" a design proven to work for another driver to fit a different model / size of driver or for room/dimension constraints could be a wasted exercise - but things that "go without saying" , well, ask your wife about "I thought that was understood"
Thanks for the quick reply!
Is it technically to have the slots on the sides or high and low in the baffle like the Solo 103? I'd really like to make the cabinets as narrow as possible, with the drivers in the middle, with one slot above and one slot below the driver.
Although this looks quite good as well: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/images/bernie-marKen12-comp.jpg
The specifications of the drivers can be found here
Is it technically to have the slots on the sides or high and low in the baffle like the Solo 103? I'd really like to make the cabinets as narrow as possible, with the drivers in the middle, with one slot above and one slot below the driver.
Although this looks quite good as well: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/images/bernie-marKen12-comp.jpg
The specifications of the drivers can be found here
That last bit is a contradition since the purpose of the horn is to bring the bass.
dave
It's not clear from the photos, but this design format allows for a lot of flexibility of dimensions and internal bracing for a very rigid cabinet. Bernie's pair were in reclaimed Douglas Fir flooring, and I've built dozens of pairs of variants with BB plywood. I don't get involved in the modelling aspect of design, so others will need to speak to the issue of suitability of this type for loading of the AN driver.
If a slot ported enclosure is deemed to be acceptable, you can feel free to locate them where ever you like, except on rear if close to wall.
Keep in mind that very narrow enclosures may need some degree of BSC - either active EQ before the amp, or with passive components at speaker level.
If they can be considered reliable, let the games begin
If you can get "real" bass from AN8s i'll be very interested.
Mine have been in three different cabinets so far.
None of which produced satisfying bass, to my taste.
They are now in OBs, and this is where they shine in my opinion.
But they need the help of some 15" drivers as well.
I still believe they are worth buying though.
Mine have been in three different cabinets so far.
None of which produced satisfying bass, to my taste.
They are now in OBs, and this is where they shine in my opinion.
But they need the help of some 15" drivers as well.
I still believe they are worth buying though.
If you can get "real" bass from AN8s i'll be very interested.
Mine have been in three different cabinets so far.
None of which produced satisfying bass, to my taste.
They are now in OBs, and this is where they shine in my opinion.
But they need the help of some 15" drivers as well.
I still believe they are worth buying though.
Mine have been in three different cabinets so far.
None of which produced satisfying bass, to my taste.
They are now in OBs, and this is where they shine in my opinion.
But they need the help of some 15" drivers as well.
I still believe they are worth buying though.
Sorry, but no. Calcs aren't applicable to AN8s. I don't trust the factory specs.
I don't do TLs yet (trying to understand Martin's spreadsheets).
One port.
There's no reason to think a 10" driver can't do 40 Hz. I have 4 inchers that easily play in that range. As I said though, I haven't built it. I can certainly hear the tones when I measure the parameters.
You can do your own sealed and reflex box sims. Not magic.
jbagby
UniBox - Unified Box Model for Loudspeaker Design - Kristian Ougaard
I don't do TLs yet (trying to understand Martin's spreadsheets).
One port.
There's no reason to think a 10" driver can't do 40 Hz. I have 4 inchers that easily play in that range. As I said though, I haven't built it. I can certainly hear the tones when I measure the parameters.
You can do your own sealed and reflex box sims. Not magic.
jbagby
UniBox - Unified Box Model for Loudspeaker Design - Kristian Ougaard
FWIW, here's the derived specs based on reference efficiency, Mms, Sd, Re, Qms, which is probably closer to reality than the T/S specs. For bass though, it's mostly academic since fs is too high and Qts is still too low, so short of a large back horn, arbitrarily choosing a somewhat larger MLTL type cab tuned lower and using some form of EQ to ‘fill it up’ seems the best compromise.
At a glance, CSA’s 5.6 cab’s basic internal volume [Vb] tuned to ~40 Hz will cover most music:
L = 60”
WxD = 148.38”^2
Zdriver = 22.3”
Zport = 55”
Dport = 5”
Lport = 0.75”
All dims i.d. and approximate. Should only require minimal damping to keep it from sounding ‘hollow’.
Once built, you can use a cheap ~25 ohm pot in series with the speaker to dial the bass ‘fullness’ in by ear, then measure its resistance and replace it with a ‘close enough’ non-inductive power resistor or resistor network as required. Better is to build a proper adjustable baffle step compensation [BSC] network: http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Variable.pdf ‘Best’ probably would be a SET matching output impedance amp.
GM
At a glance, CSA’s 5.6 cab’s basic internal volume [Vb] tuned to ~40 Hz will cover most music:
L = 60”
WxD = 148.38”^2
Zdriver = 22.3”
Zport = 55”
Dport = 5”
Lport = 0.75”
All dims i.d. and approximate. Should only require minimal damping to keep it from sounding ‘hollow’.
Once built, you can use a cheap ~25 ohm pot in series with the speaker to dial the bass ‘fullness’ in by ear, then measure its resistance and replace it with a ‘close enough’ non-inductive power resistor or resistor network as required. Better is to build a proper adjustable baffle step compensation [BSC] network: http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Variable.pdf ‘Best’ probably would be a SET matching output impedance amp.
GM
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I've been able to get decent bass with the 2.8 MkII Ambience enclosre using a AN cast 10" front firing and a AN 8" top firing driver. I need to corner load the enclosures and EQ up the bass a tad.
I'm selling a pair of 2.8 MkII Ambience enclosures which are designed for 8" front & 8" top firing drivers. They were built by Wyatt Woodworking and are cherry veneered. There is a post in the "Swap Meet" forum.
I'm selling a pair of 2.8 MkII Ambience enclosures which are designed for 8" front & 8" top firing drivers. They were built by Wyatt Woodworking and are cherry veneered. There is a post in the "Swap Meet" forum.
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