I need help chosing fullrange driver for FAST ...

[hooligan72]

Otherwise you could make rear access panel and rear mount the woofer. I'de hate to see you blow one up and not be able to change it.

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by hooligan72

Otherwise you could make rear access panel and rear mount the woofer. I'de hate to see you blow one up and not be able to change it.

of course that would change the air volume between drivers, which IIRC is important?


anyone remember the Linn Sarah 9?

[vinylkid58]

Originally Posted by chrisb

anyone remember the Linn Sarah 9?

Not really. Was there a large volume between the woofers?

jeff

[hooligan72]

I like the idea of using the NS6 isobarik for lows. They are efficient enough to play low without having to feed them lots of power.

[hooligan72]

Cheap too!!

[vinylkid58]

Really cheap actually!

jeff

[edinm]

it is all sealed and glued inside. No service opening. I never blowed any speaker so there is litlle chance for it to happen. I didn't want any compromise to enclosure stiffness. Atleast they are so cheep it is not big deal to waste couple of drivers. But NS6 are so fantastic as isobarik. They give 4ohm and 88db sensitivity and great lows. I am realy suprised.

[hooligan72]

That's why I think it's an excellent choice for isobarik. I hadn't thought of it before, but I might take a little inspiration from your design.

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by vinylkid58

Not really. Was there a large volume between the woofers?

jeff

Couldn't find any dimensions or other details of construction, but given the implied depth from this photo, and the fact that the bass driver was KEF B200, I'd say not a whole helluva lot

This also gives a good idea as how to go about retrofitting a mounting flange for the exterior driver if front panel already glued in place.

These were a mofo to replace drivers - IIRC lots of goopy silicone type caulking - and of course, everything was "Linn Tight"

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by edinm

it is all sealed and glued inside. No service opening. I never blowed any speaker so there is litlle chance for it to happen. I didn't want any compromise to enclosure stiffness. Atleast they are so cheep it is not big deal to waste couple of drivers. But NS6 are so fantastic as isobarik. They give 4ohm and 88db sensitivity and great lows. I am realy suprised.

Well if either of the internal drivers blow, it won't be just the cost of the driver you're out.

In the case of the Sarahs that I mentioned elsewhere, there was a certain class of user in the 80's hellbent on testing the limits of the system - and it seemed the smaller the enclosures, the greater the abuse. So maybe it won't be an issue for you, but I would never build any speaker that didn't allow service access to all active or passive components.