Hi,
I am investigating approach to DIY project. I have 2 of Aursound NS8 woofers waiting on shelf. First I wanted to make 3 way out of them, now I read here about F.A.S.T. concept and decide to go that way.
Now I am stack in choosing full range for project. I have couple of candidates:
- ED E60 (new Jordan JXR6HD) -> size is 2" and I am waried about performance
- Fountek FR89EX (or FR88EX) -> i am waried about sound of metal cone. I would like paper
- Fostex FF85WK -> I already had FE127E and dont like peaks, didnt sound nice to me
- TB W4-1320
- TB W5-1611
- Some other TB W3 or W4, there are couple of them
I plan to put them in traditional 2 way box, about 17 liter for woofer and 2 - 3 litter chamber within box, sealed for full range driver.
Crossover will be around 250 - 300Hz, first order, with variable L-PAD if needed to control fullrange level.
Amplifier is Class D IcePower asx50 module, 2 x 25w (4 ohm)
Please could someone make me nice propostition what driver to choose. I am unable to test any of this drivers.
My clossest candidate are: EAD E60 (most expensive one) and TB W5-1611 (ferrite version)
Thanks Very much
I am investigating approach to DIY project. I have 2 of Aursound NS8 woofers waiting on shelf. First I wanted to make 3 way out of them, now I read here about F.A.S.T. concept and decide to go that way.
Now I am stack in choosing full range for project. I have couple of candidates:
- ED E60 (new Jordan JXR6HD) -> size is 2" and I am waried about performance
- Fountek FR89EX (or FR88EX) -> i am waried about sound of metal cone. I would like paper
- Fostex FF85WK -> I already had FE127E and dont like peaks, didnt sound nice to me
- TB W4-1320
- TB W5-1611
- Some other TB W3 or W4, there are couple of them
I plan to put them in traditional 2 way box, about 17 liter for woofer and 2 - 3 litter chamber within box, sealed for full range driver.
Crossover will be around 250 - 300Hz, first order, with variable L-PAD if needed to control fullrange level.
Amplifier is Class D IcePower asx50 module, 2 x 25w (4 ohm)
Please could someone make me nice propostition what driver to choose. I am unable to test any of this drivers.
My clossest candidate are: EAD E60 (most expensive one) and TB W5-1611 (ferrite version)
Thanks Very much
Fountek FE85 is $13.
Fostex FF85WK isn't like the larger FE series drivers.
Keep in mind that a 1st order xo at 250-300 Hz on the full-range will end up with 3rd to 4th order acoustic high-pass. And unless you're using an active crossover, you're likely to run into issues with impedance with the full-ranger. Also, those Aura woofers are better suited to being crossed low. With a 3rd order acoustic on the full-range, I'd put at least a 2nd order low-pass on that woofer. Just my opinion.
Fostex FF85WK isn't like the larger FE series drivers.
Keep in mind that a 1st order xo at 250-300 Hz on the full-range will end up with 3rd to 4th order acoustic high-pass. And unless you're using an active crossover, you're likely to run into issues with impedance with the full-ranger. Also, those Aura woofers are better suited to being crossed low. With a 3rd order acoustic on the full-range, I'd put at least a 2nd order low-pass on that woofer. Just my opinion.
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Update ...
Hi,
I just ordered EAD E60. Now I can hope I made good selection. From lot of posts and comments I realizd that 2" - 3" drivers are optimal for FAST, so I choosed this driver.
It is expensive but want to have best posible reult.
Now I need help how to do it in best way. I have Aurasound NS8 as woofers. Where to cross it. I have all needed elements already to make pasive crossover 280Hz. Low pass 2nd order and highpass 1st order. I wonder is it better to put all drivers in ne enclossure with sealed shamber around 2.5 liter for E60, or to built enclosure for E60 and put in on woofer as separate box.
Enclosure for woofers are around 16.8 liter.
Is this woofer is good for this application? I plan to use it because I alredy have it. I think that woofer is not critical for this system because it covers low frequencies. Maybe I am wrong?
Thanks for help.
Hi,
I just ordered EAD E60. Now I can hope I made good selection. From lot of posts and comments I realizd that 2" - 3" drivers are optimal for FAST, so I choosed this driver.
It is expensive but want to have best posible reult.
Now I need help how to do it in best way. I have Aurasound NS8 as woofers. Where to cross it. I have all needed elements already to make pasive crossover 280Hz. Low pass 2nd order and highpass 1st order. I wonder is it better to put all drivers in ne enclossure with sealed shamber around 2.5 liter for E60, or to built enclosure for E60 and put in on woofer as separate box.
Enclosure for woofers are around 16.8 liter.
Is this woofer is good for this application? I plan to use it because I alredy have it. I think that woofer is not critical for this system because it covers low frequencies. Maybe I am wrong?
Thanks for help.
Nice choice !!
Just brainstorming ....
matching the little EA 60 with a big waveguide ( such as the Dayton WG 8-10" ) could help in raising the level above 1 KHz ; practically you have a little powerful tweeter that has 2mm excursion !! This because it has some 2 dB less sensitivity than the woofer , but that's no problem because the filter and the baffle suck almost 3 dB from the woofer !
Since the little FR has to reproduce frequencies above 150 Hz , its box can be
less voluminous than predicted...you could go even OB or nearly ,with heavy damping of the backwave with felt .
Then , lately I've been experiencing with total isolation of the cabinet from vibration ,that is to say , suspending it with rubber bands to a stand ( framework ). Total and different approach ,and very rewarding . naturally , each driver doesn't have to interact with the other , so it becomes more difficult to suspend both
It's easier to put the HF unit below the woofer .
Just brainstorming ....
matching the little EA 60 with a big waveguide ( such as the Dayton WG 8-10" ) could help in raising the level above 1 KHz ; practically you have a little powerful tweeter that has 2mm excursion !! This because it has some 2 dB less sensitivity than the woofer , but that's no problem because the filter and the baffle suck almost 3 dB from the woofer !
Since the little FR has to reproduce frequencies above 150 Hz , its box can be
less voluminous than predicted...you could go even OB or nearly ,with heavy damping of the backwave with felt .
Then , lately I've been experiencing with total isolation of the cabinet from vibration ,that is to say , suspending it with rubber bands to a stand ( framework ). Total and different approach ,and very rewarding . naturally , each driver doesn't have to interact with the other , so it becomes more difficult to suspend both
It's easier to put the HF unit below the woofer .Project finished ...
Hi,
Ead E60 drivers arrived couple of weeks ago. After eperimnting with diffrent LF drivers I finaly settled on this design:
- Floorstanders, 30 lit in total volume
- EAD E60 in 3 liter sealed box, separated from woofer part of the box
- Around 25 lit volume for woofers
- I used Iso-barik maded from two Aurasound NS6-8A 6" woofers. Drivers are in >> configuration.
- Enclosure is heavily braced and constructed from plywood 18mm.
- Port is 6.8cm x 19cm
Crossover is pasive 280hz, 2nd order for woofer and 1 order for E60.
Results are impresive LF that goes to F3 - 38Hz, F10 - 26Hz
Impresive is easy of LF reproduction, Iso-barik isdefinitly great design approach to use.
I all sound very, vry good. Very impresed with results.
Hi,
Ead E60 drivers arrived couple of weeks ago. After eperimnting with diffrent LF drivers I finaly settled on this design:
- Floorstanders, 30 lit in total volume
- EAD E60 in 3 liter sealed box, separated from woofer part of the box
- Around 25 lit volume for woofers
- I used Iso-barik maded from two Aurasound NS6-8A 6" woofers. Drivers are in >> configuration.
- Enclosure is heavily braced and constructed from plywood 18mm.
- Port is 6.8cm x 19cm
Crossover is pasive 280hz, 2nd order for woofer and 1 order for E60.
Results are impresive LF that goes to F3 - 38Hz, F10 - 26Hz
Impresive is easy of LF reproduction, Iso-barik isdefinitly great design approach to use.
I all sound very, vry good. Very impresed with results.
of course that would change the air volume between drivers, which IIRC is important?
anyone remember the Linn Sarah 9?
it is all sealed and glued inside. No service opening. I never blowed any speaker so there is litlle chance for it to happen. I didn't want any compromise to enclosure stiffness. Atleast they are so cheep it is not big deal to waste couple of drivers. But NS6 are so fantastic as isobarik. They give 4ohm and 88db sensitivity and great lows. I am realy suprised.
Couldn't find any dimensions or other details of construction, but given the implied depth from this photo, and the fact that the bass driver was KEF B200, I'd say not a whole helluva lot
This also gives a good idea as how to go about retrofitting a mounting flange for the exterior driver if front panel already glued in place.
These were a mofo to replace drivers - IIRC lots of goopy silicone type caulking - and of course, everything was "Linn Tight"
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Well if either of the internal drivers blow, it won't be just the cost of the driver you're out.
In the case of the Sarahs that I mentioned elsewhere, there was a certain class of user in the 80's hellbent on testing the limits of the system - and it seemed the smaller the enclosures, the greater the abuse. So maybe it won't be an issue for you, but I would never build any speaker that didn't allow service access to all active or passive components.
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