I need help chosing fullrange driver for FAST ...

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hehe,I hope not jinxed myself. I am diyer, as we all hare. If internal driver fails iwill be happy to rebuild it. I enjoy in process of building speakers. Next time it could be only better build. I only need some playwood and one rainy boring weekend. Most important is that speakers sound fantastic, all other is not important now.
 
Finished speakers

Here are pictures of finished speakers. Acctualy not finished 100% it still need to be done some kind of finishing but that can wait.
 

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Hehe, from my personal expiriance you ar right about finishing. I sad it can wait, but did't said for how much :)
I am very happy with sound. E60 gives very detailed and refined sound from 280z up.
Auras gives extremely low and rich LF. It goes F3 to 38 Hz and almost flat to 200Hz. Tere is lot of punch. Biggest advantage of isobarik is elimination of distorsion in LF. Low frequencies are defined and well rounded and effortless. Realy impresed. I had 15" woofers, couple of 8-inchers, Aura NS8, ... but never achieved such refined LF.

On the other side E60 is fantasitc as mid/tweet.

Currently I have problems with amplifiers, I sold my IcePower based amp to friend and now waiting IRS2092 L15D modules to make new amp. Then I will have full system. Currently listen on old Grundig amplifier.
 
Well , I like them !
They do overcome the faults I had in my isobarics : the FR was suspected not to behave correctly :rolleyes: and the woofers worked in a little box :rolleyes:
indeed they were bookshelves ...but stands were oscillating when playing at full power !
I dismantled them two months ago . Also the difficulty of reaching the hidden driver for firmly securing it to the cabinet ... I'm still in projecting a 2 way with a FR with a BIG waveguide .
About the lovely videos and songs ...In the first ( but also the others )
the drum part reminds me of a steam train engine running slowly :cool:
Ciao
 
my problem with these FAST designs is that the bass sounds 'bigger' than the midrange. to me it sounds like whatever is producing the low end sounds closer than whatever is producing the mids and uppers.

anyone tried these designs using bigger fullrangers?

my experience is based on a visaton DIY kit heard at a DIY audio club.
 
Hoping E60 has a better construction than JRX6HD.

I had JRX6HD in sealed boxes (2.2l). A first one failed after 6 months, and now it's the second one. I'm wondering if I should replace with E60 or give up with unfiltered small Jordans/EAD (still very happy with my E100HD+ in modified VTL, although they needed some HF lowering)

Francois
 
Biggest advantage of isobarik is elimination of distorsion in LF.

Isobarik makes no difference to distortion unless you use the push-pull method.

Nice project. Was there a particular thread that inspired you with this FAST idea?

Hoping E60 has a better construction than JRX6HD.

I had JRX6HD in sealed boxes (2.2l). A first one failed after 6 months, and now it's the second one. I'm wondering if I should replace with E60 or give up with unfiltered small Jordans/EAD (still very happy with my E100HD+ in modified VTL, although they needed some HF lowering)

Francois

Do you use vinyl? With no high-pass filter on them the low emissions from vinyl playback will destroy any small speaker. Even with CD I would fit a filter, they are only small speakers with little xmax after all.
 
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Isobarik makes no difference to distortion unless you use the push-pull method.

Nice project. Was there a particular thread that inspired you with this FAST idea?



I think running them with no high-pass filter is asking for trouble unless you keep to very low volumes only.


Pb is that I'm zero at engineering filter. Any plans and component list to filter out below 150Hz? I initially went without filter because Ted Jordan did advocate for that. That's also the setup I have with my E100 without any problems. Pb is not the values (there are web sites to calculate the filter), but I've no idea which specification to buy (power, type of component, ...) and I wouldn't want that the filter is more expensive than the driver, but also would like to avoid degrading the sound with a bad filter.


I thought beauty of the FR was also avoiding any filtering that affects the sound, so I'm a little confused.
 
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