I am ready and eager to start my first project.
I would like to have a good pair of speakers to improve basically the Flat Screen TV sound. No plans for a Sub at the moment but maybe after I finish the main speakers.
I have decided what I like to start with. Planning to build my first pair of speakers (Arro-inspired ML-TL 0v9).
Already found a good source for the 3/4" Baltic Birch Ply and the price is also very good. The plan calls for 1/2" ply but the lumberyard only stocks 3/4". Can I alter the plans or is this a big NO?
Will use the CSS EL70ML-TLERT26 combination with crossover from Creative Sound ($105.00 + shipping)
Am I in the correct path?
Any advise will be very appreciated!
Luis
I would like to have a good pair of speakers to improve basically the Flat Screen TV sound. No plans for a Sub at the moment but maybe after I finish the main speakers.
I have decided what I like to start with. Planning to build my first pair of speakers (Arro-inspired ML-TL 0v9).
Already found a good source for the 3/4" Baltic Birch Ply and the price is also very good. The plan calls for 1/2" ply but the lumberyard only stocks 3/4". Can I alter the plans or is this a big NO?
Will use the CSS EL70ML-TLERT26 combination with crossover from Creative Sound ($105.00 + shipping)
Am I in the correct path?
Any advise will be very appreciated!
Luis
That is fine. Maintain the internal dimensions.
Sounds like a plan to me. Do try the EL70 by itself so that you know exactly what the tweeter is adding.
Looking forward to your comments.
dave
Luis,
Also please make sure that you start breaking in the EL-70 with soft music. The drivers will sound better and better as you get hours on them. Mark Fenlon advises 4-6 hours of break in at a time at low volumes. As hours increase you can up the volume a bit and start introducing a bit more rhythmic music.
All the best for your project and keep us posted on the progress.
-Zia
Also please make sure that you start breaking in the EL-70 with soft music. The drivers will sound better and better as you get hours on them. Mark Fenlon advises 4-6 hours of break in at a time at low volumes. As hours increase you can up the volume a bit and start introducing a bit more rhythmic music.
All the best for your project and keep us posted on the progress.
-Zia
Thank you guys!
Tomorrow I will pick the plywood and if the time during the long weekend allows, I will start cutting the components.
Planet10..Thank you for the plan, this is exactly what I was looking for.
Can I use a heavy base instead of the box with sand? Since that is purely for stabilization, I think I can use a heavy natural granite plate.
Also, how do I keep the stuffing from falling down to the base?
Will take pictures of the whole process to post here.!
Again ,Thank you guys!
Tomorrow I will pick the plywood and if the time during the long weekend allows, I will start cutting the components.
Planet10..Thank you for the plan, this is exactly what I was looking for.
Can I use a heavy base instead of the box with sand? Since that is purely for stabilization, I think I can use a heavy natural granite plate.
Also, how do I keep the stuffing from falling down to the base?
Will take pictures of the whole process to post here.!
Again ,Thank you guys!
Here is the Sketchup Model in exploded view.
I will do the cutting layout now. Since I plan to veneer the speakers I will optimize the cutting layout for a 5'x5' BB Ply.
I will do the cutting layout now. Since I plan to veneer the speakers I will optimize the cutting layout for a 5'x5' BB Ply.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nice pick 
See here what I have to say about the EL70: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ge-speaker-photo-gallery-188.html#post2837330
I hope you find it also as enjoyable.
About the tweeter... I have grills on mine and the treble is plenty fine. I've heard 4 or 5 different pairs of EL70 and the treble has always been fine to me. I've also measured the EL70 (twice, 2 different pairs), and the treble is extended all the way to 20khz.
Go ahead and order the tweeters if you'd like, but do what Dave suggested, and evaluate EL70 naked before settling on using the tweeter. You may find avoiding a high frequency xo to preserve the amazing sound of the el70.
See here what I have to say about the EL70: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ge-speaker-photo-gallery-188.html#post2837330I hope you find it also as enjoyable.
About the tweeter... I have grills on mine and the treble is plenty fine. I've heard 4 or 5 different pairs of EL70 and the treble has always been fine to me. I've also measured the EL70 (twice, 2 different pairs), and the treble is extended all the way to 20khz.
Go ahead and order the tweeters if you'd like, but do what Dave suggested, and evaluate EL70 naked before settling on using the tweeter. You may find avoiding a high frequency xo to preserve the amazing sound of the el70.
Nice pick See here what I have to say about the EL70: Full Range Speaker Photo Gallery
I hope you find it also as enjoyable.
About the tweeter... I have grills on mine and the treble is plenty fine. I've heard 4 or 5 different pairs of EL70 and the treble has always been fine to me. I've also measured the EL70 (twice, 2 different pairs), and the treble is extended all the way to 20khz.
Go ahead and order the tweeters if you'd like, but do what Dave suggested, and evaluate EL70 naked before settling on using the tweeter. You may find avoiding a high frequency xo to preserve the amazing sound of the el70.
Thank you for the advice. I will go with the EL70 alone and see how the sound is. Since this is the first time I'm building speakers, I can't even compare against other speakers.
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The 3/4" drawing is new, but a 1/2" mat'l drawing has been available from Creative Sound for some time. Listed as part of a two way kit. Here's my Sketchup version scaled for 15mm BB.
Attachments
A heavy base will do, some might object to the resulting driver height but a bit of tilt-back will fix that.
With the amount of damping specified, as long as you tease it out fully, it will stay in place via friction.
Also note that if you have a piece of 5x5 BB, it is likely called 3/4" (19.1mm) but VERY likely actually 18mm, so measure thcikness and adjust as needed.
dave
Those braces will imped the quarter wave action and are not nearly effective as the vertical braces (which increase the aspect ratio of the sub-panels, instead of decreasing it (bad)).
dave
I'm all ears. Not clear how they impede internal wave action since they're primary hollow. The vertical brace doesn't act as a fold does it? Wouldn't seem so given the port location. I also don't understand your use of aspect ratio in this context. Trying to learn. Especially since I have seen window braces used in other MLTL designs by folks that seem to produce accepted speakers. The single vertical brace also seems to leave long expanses of panel w/o bracing. No resonance issues?
They would need to be 100& hollow to not create constrictions in the line cross-section.
Given placement and orientation even if they were solid they'd not act as folds. With the holes they are almost invisible to height oriented 1/4 wave action
Any brace will ideally create sub-panels with a higher aspect ratio than the original panel.
The primary resonance frequency will be determined by the narrowest dimension of a (sub)panel. Narrower = higher = less likely to be excited.
With the bracing you have shown, panels are approaching 1:1, a circular drumhead shape the only shape worse.
Ideally both braces would run the full height -- the brace parallel to the baffle should be discontinued in the vicinity of the baffle so as not to act as an early reflector.
With a cabinet this narrow to start with, one can usually get away with the simplier bracing as shown. The only thing they will help with is ballooning from internal air pressure which is already pretty much a non-issue in these. The majority of energy is tranmitted into the cabinet via the mechanical coupling with the driver.
A non-optimal bracing scheme in those too.
dave
I hadn't thought about the cross-sectional constriction. That makes sense. How far from 1:1 do you recommend for the ratio? Those braces were placed where they were to avoid equidistant spacing, but I'm not married to them.
I can certainly build the braces as shown, it just wasn't clear whether they were a design restriction or more a Planet 10 signature. They are a bit fiddly.
I can certainly build the braces as shown, it just wasn't clear whether they were a design restriction or more a Planet 10 signature. They are a bit fiddly.
They are a bitch to do but effective. The holes don't have to be circles but circles (arches) do make for a stonger brace.
dave
- coming from a non-fabricator of speaker enclosures, I'm surprised he (Dave) got the technical term* right - (well actually the forum censor precludes the common tradesman's terminology) - yes, the interlocking holey braces as (much more easily) drawn (than built) are rather troublesome - as I've got the slivers to substantiate - but certainly work
unless you only anticipate one speaker project ( in which case you're probably not a registered member of any DIY type forum
) the investment in a quick release hole mandrel and 2 or 3 hole saws is money well spentHi everybody! Happy 2012!
I just finished the Cutting Layout for the speakers. Attached is the drawing in case anyone is interested.
I just finished the Cutting Layout for the speakers. Attached is the drawing in case anyone is interested.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As mentioned earlier, if the sheet is 5x5 the material is actually 18mm not 3/4" (althou in the US ur would be called 3/4"). This will directly impact your cut plan... all those 1.1mm buts add up. Take your calipiers to your sheet and measure the actual thickness.
dave
It looks like you're planning to tightly nest the upper brace around the driver magnet - a few suggestions:
- dry fit very carefully with the driver & gasket installed and err on a slight gap that can be shimmed with strips of paper or veneer
- dado or cleat to allow for at least temporary* removal of rear panel (seal with closed cell weatherstrip tape) - a tall skinny box like this with interlocking braces can be a bitch to access for adjusting damping fill/distribution
* once dialed in, you can always permanently glue the back panel in place before applying final finish.
- give the drivers the several hundred hours break-in and don't fine tune damping levels with a loose panel held in place by clamps - the mass and torque of clamps will affect the cabinet's resonance behavior
- if not post veneering or painting the boxes, cut with grain in the long direction, and apply any edge-banding before assembly (of course if you're using miter-fold or glue-lock joinery, that won't apply)
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