Solid Cherry Frugel Horn Mk3 Build - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 16th December 2011, 06:31 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Montana
Default Solid Cherry Frugel Horn Mk3 Build

I will be starting my second set of Frugel Horn speakers. I built my first ones from ply wood, this time I will be using solid clear cherry wood. This time I will take lots of pictures of the progress and post them on here. I have already bought the lumber and already own the CHP70 for this build. For anyone who has done this with solid wood, have any advise for dampening. Right now I am going to stay with the same dampening I used in my first set, which was what the build plans had. Any advise on this build would be appreciated.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th December 2011, 07:20 PM   #2
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
no advice, but good luck
on hiatus
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th December 2011, 12:55 AM   #3
bill_a is offline bill_a  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Solid wood - no matter the species - is not a good idea for 6-sided tight-joint boxes, particularly folded horns with the miriad of internal baffles and channels. Either the joints or the material will fail due to expansion and contraction from changes in humidity and the finish, no matter what it is, cannot stop it. This is one of the very first lessons one learns when becoming a woodworker.

Plywood, because of the thin cross-grained laminations does not shrink or expand nearly as much as solid wood. Particle board or MDF that's sealed doesn't either (unsealed, its actually much worse). Thats why most speakers are veneered ply or sealed MDF.

If the thought of learning to do veneer work is too intimidating, just do them out of good birch ply and finish with a good poly finish. IMHO, a good sounding set of fair looking speakers, is a far sight better than a beautiful pair that's going to crack, check or break in a year or two. It's also just a waste of expensive wood.

You are not the first to try it, nor will you be the last. Just a word to the wise from a woodworker with 30+ years of experience.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th December 2011, 10:42 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Got to agree with Bill here, I don't think it's completely impossible but the likelyhood of failure is very high, how about making them out of ply or MDF and lining the outside with solid cherry say 10mm thick? It's why no one makes even the most expensive kitchens out of solid wood and solid doors have a floating panel to allow for the inevitable movement, and a proportion of them still fail.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th December 2011, 05:19 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Montana
I fully agree that is a high chance of failure, especially if it is not sealed, glued or jointed properly. I just really like solid wood and love working with. The one thing of going for me is I live in Montana where humidity changes are not a huge problem. Stay nice and dry here. The wood was purchased from a small local company that mills and kiln dries there wood in Montana (expect for exotics). So I am not bring in wood that is from a humid area. I will be sealing the the inside of the box, then using dowels and glue to join everything. The outside will also be sealed as well. I have been building furniture, as a hobby, for 15 with my dad and last 5 years I have been building a lot by myself. I fully understand the risk of their being failures. Its going to be fun, because I am going to be putting my wood working stills to the test.
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th December 2011, 09:46 PM   #6
puppet is offline puppet  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: The Dells, WI
I think you can pull it off.
Couple tips ... maybe you know 'em.

Boards used in a wide panel must be edged slightly concave in the length. When you place them flat, like you'd glue them together, the ends should touch and there should be a space in the center. (1/32" or more) End grain gives up moisture first ... this technique puts the panel into "pre-stress". As the ends give it up, the panel starts to relax. Joints won't check if you've allowed enough at glue-up.

Areas of greatest concern will be:
The side panel bottoms ... so I'd rough cut the shape before glue up and make sure you have the edge spacing machined here in those shorter length pieces.

The top where it meets the side panel. This must float or it'll check here. Top will be joined to baffle and back so no worries about it coming off. I'd use a rabbit/dado combination for the side/top joint (no glue!) Allow for the side to move toward the back under the top piece.

The back will have to have a dado/rabbit joint along its length as well. I'd make the rabbit/dado snug for about 1/2 the length up but the upper half should have a wider dado than rabbit so the side piece can move back and forth without stressing this joint and therefore, the side. Idea is not to trap anything in at least one direction.

Cherry is getting rare and expensive .... don't choke. :P
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2011, 12:00 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
mill23bay's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto
Can some sort of a sealer be used inside? I may fill some voids here and there, good for the corners.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2011, 12:21 AM   #8
evanc is offline evanc  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: New Jersey. About 1 hour from NYC and 1 min. from the beach
you could build the boxes with solid sides top and bottom with the grain running the same direction all the way around. Wood expands across the grain, not in the long direction. The box will grow from front to back. Then make the front baffle, internal dividers and back from plywood. Seems like this eliminates grain conflicts.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2011, 12:21 AM   #9
zman01 is online now zman01  Bangladesh
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
NO expertise here , just a thought - how about you make the insides and bottom panel with plywood and the side and top with real wood? If that would be acceptable as a wood build to you that is...
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2011, 01:50 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Montana
I currently do have a pair of demo speakers I made from ply wood and thinking about putting a veneer on them, but I am going to be building a full speaker out of solid cherry. I do agree that it's going to be a challenge. I have noticed that cherry has slowly gone up in price. The top of the speaker I do agree could cause some checking and also the front, the front I will be doubling it up so their will be one piece the covers the full front. I might do the same for the top to help with the checking. The side panel with the concave panels is a good idea. I will be sealing the inside, but this is clear cherry so they are no voids, only one piece of lumber has a small knot, but I will be cutting it out.
  Reply With Quote


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Frugel-Horn Mk3 Builds & Build Questions planet10 Full Range 1278 29th April 2017 10:00 PM
Frugel-Horn Mk3 flat-paks planet10 Planet 10 hifi 519 22nd April 2017 09:33 PM
Frugel-Horn Mk3 planet10 Full Range 1583 7th March 2017 10:34 AM
Frugel-Horn Mk3 Auditions planet10 Full Range 24 8th June 2012 07:18 PM
My Frugel Horn Mk3 Build mythosofsmythos Full Range 9 16th December 2011 05:28 AM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:58 PM.

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2017 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2