full range + woofer OR full range + tweeter ? - Page 4 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 9th December 2011, 05:13 AM   #31
diyAudio Member
 
Godzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
Adason, I enjoyed your comment as well as your article about the speaker you built. I have those Jamo woofers too on OB and they sound fantastic. Wish I bought more when they were cheaply available at PE.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 11:28 AM   #32
diyAudio Member
 
norman bates's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: iowa
lol, so whatcha gunna do?

Norman
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 02:02 PM   #33
melis is offline melis  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by norman bates View Post
lol, so whatcha gunna do?

Norman
Click the image to open in full size.
hawk audio duke
4x 3 full range + 6 woofer + tweeter
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 05:58 PM   #34
adason is offline adason  United States
diyAudio Member
 
adason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Maryland
Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla View Post
Adason, I enjoyed your comment as well as your article about the speaker you built. I have those Jamo woofers too on OB and they sound fantastic. Wish I bought more when they were cheaply available at PE.
thanks godzilla! (i got 6 those jamo woofers, but I have them in closed boxes)
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th December 2011, 06:02 PM   #35
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Default Full range + woofer

I strongly recommend a full range with woofer vs. full range plus tweeter. I am currently using a Tang Band w3-1878 coupled with two 10 inch Eminence woofers in isobarik loading, with a choke on the woofers at 150 Hz. It compares very favorably with my best 3 way consisting of an SEAS Millenium tweeter, Morel 3 inch dome mid, and 6 inch Peerless in transmission line loading, at half the cost.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th March 2013, 07:47 PM   #36
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
+1, it is usually done with XO only on the tweeter, so the extension of the FR determines the frequency, usually above 10k.

My preference is the FR + Woofer.

Why it has the potential to work better is down to the wavelength at the XO point. One gets rid of a very significant downside of XOs if one can space the drivers such that they are within a 1/4 wavelength (or less) of each other. If one can do this then the drivers are essentially co-incident -- to do the same with a helper tweeter it would need to be co-axial with an appropriate time delay on one driver.

Further, there are LOTs of decent midbasses to choose from that extend to 1kHz+, and a growing number of FRs that will hit 100 Hz or less and have extension to 20k+. This engenders a simple 1st order XO which means retention of time/phase. It is also an ideal place (if one takes care with driver selection) to do a series XO. The very nature of the series XO also means that the responses of the 2 drivers can automatically compensate for anomalies inherent in the drivers. This is one place where a passive XO can have advantages over active XOs.

Third, careful choice of XO frequency (amps & impedances too) can get you inherent BSC (doesn't apply to OBs, MJK has good coverage of that in his passive baffle articla)

Forth, back to the wavelengths... when down low, there are no issues with lobing of the dispersion because, due to 3, driver response is approaching omnidirectional.

And a comment on item 2. As the cost, sophistication and choice of DSP continues to plummet I can see some serious advantages to using a 1st order series XO to get into the ballpark, and then DSP EQ to tidy up the details.

It should be noted that a FAST is actually closer to a "real" 2-way than a helper tweeter, as the bass driver handles 2-4 octaves (using 80-320 Hz XO point) whereas a helper tweeter is more like a single octave (XO @ 10k) so you get more of the advantage out of job sharing.

dave
This is exactly what I want to do with my vintage CTS 12" woofer and a Mark Audio CHP-70-DP.

Thread about this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-...-new-post.html

I am thinking about the Mark Audio because in the write they mention the high roll off and paper material in relation to drivers from the 50's which I think my woofer is more in line with. Also, they match aesthetically as well and are affordable. I have to settle for the Gen-1 because the Gen 2 is out of stock.

Any opinions?
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Full Range plus Tweeter Anchan Full Range 48 13th April 2012 08:39 AM
Adding a tweeter to full range gaust Full Range 50 21st November 2011 12:09 AM
Adding Tweeter to Full Range ttan98 Full Range 95 24th October 2011 09:46 AM
Full range or tweeter? mrmondaynight Car Audio 14 11th February 2010 03:28 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:01 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2