Hello diyAudio community.
I am putting together a game plan to build a Class A amplifier and fullrange speaker stereo system for my bedroom. My bedroom is 13ft x 13ft. The speakers will be close to walls and probably placed in or near corners. My budget for drivers is $100 for the pair. The only cabinet requirement is simplicity, meaning the cabinet must be fairly easy to construct. The cabinet plans must also be free of charge. I will probably build a small subwoofer in the future. I would like to see some driver and enclosure recommendations that will fit my application. Thank you so much for the time taken to read and reply to my post.
I am putting together a game plan to build a Class A amplifier and fullrange speaker stereo system for my bedroom. My bedroom is 13ft x 13ft. The speakers will be close to walls and probably placed in or near corners. My budget for drivers is $100 for the pair. The only cabinet requirement is simplicity, meaning the cabinet must be fairly easy to construct. The cabinet plans must also be free of charge. I will probably build a small subwoofer in the future. I would like to see some driver and enclosure recommendations that will fit my application. Thank you so much for the time taken to read and reply to my post.
Though I've never heard them, I think Pensils for chr70 or el 70 would fit your bill. The drivers are $38 ea I think and the boxes are easy to build and plans are free on Planet10's website. From what I've read either would do very well in a room like yours. I'd probably choose el70s because of paper cones and better bass.
Thanks guys! Those where the two designs I was considering.
While the Frugal-Horn calls my name, I think I will build the Mark Audio R70 just because it will be cost effective and simple to build. I will be building First Watt F5. Will the R70 work well with this amplifier? I want to build the FE126En Frugal-Horn but I lack the tools to make accurate angled cuts.
Thanks again guys!
While the Frugal-Horn calls my name, I think I will build the Mark Audio R70 just because it will be cost effective and simple to build. I will be building First Watt F5. Will the R70 work well with this amplifier? I want to build the FE126En Frugal-Horn but I lack the tools to make accurate angled cuts.
Thanks again guys!
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
I have a pair of EL70's and they are really nice, but I am always conscious of the lower impedance - 4R nominal - which allows more power for the same amplifier power rail voltage compared with 8R nominal, but requires higher Class A bias current and hence more heat.
CHR-70 is nominal 8R and looks to have a more extended freq. response (see attached, EL70 on left - courtesy of Mark Audio)
If you like the FH3, you can, if I remember, get a ready-cut kit of wood from Planet10.
CHR-70 is nominal 8R and looks to have a more extended freq. response (see attached, EL70 on left - courtesy of Mark Audio)
If you like the FH3, you can, if I remember, get a ready-cut kit of wood from Planet10.
Attachments
Last edited:
At the top, on the bottom EL70 does better. Both plots are from Mark... in the 1st i traced the curve so that it could be placed on the prettier FuzzMeasure graticle (and end up with a vector drawing)
dave
I usually lean towards paper cone drivers but I like that the CHR70 has a little more top end. However, bass response is a little more important to me. What about the CHP70? I love the look of the natural paper cone, but how does it compare to the other drivers mentioned for my application?
Maybe I will get a table saw for Christmas, then I will be able to build the Frugals this spring.
Thanks for all the replies.
Maybe I will get a table saw for Christmas, then I will be able to build the Frugals this spring.
Thanks for all the replies.
Partly the answer depends on which CHP70? I'm not sure how many folks have had the opportunity to compare the earlier (European) and current G2 version and either version of CHR70. In this size range, I've heard CHR70 (both gens) CHP70 G2, EL70, Alpair7 & 7.3, and Alpair6 M & P in a range of enclosures - I certainly couldn't nominate an overall winner for all applications.
Is your inclination to the CHR based on actual listening, or forum chat? - that's always a toughie.
The FH3 enclosure has certainly been found to be compliant enough to work well with a wide range of 3-4" drivers (all of the above named and more) - with some models adjustment to damping / fill is required to tame bass output.
how's that for clarifying things?
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
you'd make a good politician
Personally, I don't like the colour scheme for the CHP, a combination of black and tan. OK if you're mixing a drink but otherwise it looks weird - maybe it's just the datasheet that shows it in a bad light ?
The freq. response may not be to your taste either.
Attachments
They come in black as well. The spike upward, followed by the shelf in the HF is audible when directly compared to an EL70 as a loss of harmonics on female vocals, but listening by themselves quite enjoyable, i have a set of milliSize (stock) playing in my office right now.
dave
Maybe... getting this to XO smoothly with the peak, followed by the shelf may be an issue unless in the digital domain, and if that, it could just be EQed flat.
If you are going to add a tweeter, might as well start with CHBW, which has a 10dB lower shelf & not quite as dramatic a peak, making XO easier (and a very good XO already developed -- kits can be had from Bob/CSS, not sure what the status of the circuit is)
The FR anomalies are likely accompanied by phase anomolies.
That said, Chris is sheduled to put some holes for some ERT26 on the empty faces of the microTowers, we may be able to turn the shelf into an asset as we turn them into MTII.
dave
Attachments
I will be ordering from Madisound, so I am referring to the Gen2.
Of course not. I am a MECA Sound Quality League competitor and 1st place winner in my class and I fully understand that any driver will perform different in any given application. The drivers I use in my car to win competitions may sound like crap in your car.
You present a false dichotomy. You are giving two options when there are actually more. My inclinations are based on experience with different cone materials, motor designs, cone geometry, suspension configurations, Klippel distortion data, and response data I take with my personal RTA setup. Forum banter is not a factor in my decision, with the exception of this thread in which I am seeking personal experience from knowledgeable people. I value measurable performance over listening impressions anyways.
This is nice to know. If I build the FH3, I will use the FE126En.
I understand it is not optimal to fix acoustic/mechanical problems with electrical solutions but I have no qualm using digital signal processing to take care of any problems a dinky little 4" driver may impose.
As always, Thanks for the replies.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.