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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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I just bought two of these, and i was hoping someone could help me figure out the best size box to put them in. Should it be ported or sealed. Any help is appreciated. these are the speakers
HiVi B3N 3" Aluminum Driver Round Frame 297-428 these are the specifications on that page Power handling: 15 watts RMS/30 watts max VCdia: 3/4" Znom: 8 ohms Re: 6.5 ohms Frequency range: 100-7,000 Hz Fs: 77 Hz SPL: 82 dB 2.83V/1m Vas: 0.06 cu. ft. Qms: 4.48 Qes: 1.07 Qts: 0.86 Xmax: 3 mm Dimensions: Overall diameter: 3-1/2", Cutout diameter: 2-7/8", Mounting depth: 2-1/8". I'm using this amp if that matters. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=310-300 I'm building an iPod dock. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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__________________
today there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms Trotsky |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Country Victoria Australia
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Just a quick word of warning. These drivers exhibit a large variation in T/S parameters and often are a long way from the published numbers. Don't bother doing any high precision modelling unless you measure the T/S parameters yourself.
In practice their high Qts (near or over 1.0 for every one I have measured) suits them best for sealed enclosures. Not much point going over about 3 litres (see Zaph's design) and they will work OK in volumes down to half a litre as satellites. Just don't expect any bass from them. I have tried every conceivable variation of reflex, double reflex and TL/TQWT and my advice is don't bother. It is possible to get quite low bass from such a system but the linear excursion and power handling mean the max SPLs are unfeasibly low. They are capable of great performance but they are peaky as hell and you will be lucky to get away without BSC at least and probably some EQ as well. So, I reckon go the 3 litre sealed with BSC, so you might as well build Zaphs. Also search the forum. There are a few other B3N projects worth looking at. Good luck! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cambridge, MA
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I made the design from Zaph's site using he same speaker but with the square flange.
Plus one to blakkshepe's suggestion, they sound real nice. Here's the link: Zaph|Audio -Nelson |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Country Victoria Australia
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Yeah, Zaph's done all the work on this one. I have duplicated his networks and they are good too. It's simple but effective. Difficult to do better without active EQ.
You are in for a surprise when you hear them. Bloody ripper for the money (basically nothing!) |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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I decided to go Zaph's rout, but i need some help with the filter. First of all; what does it do, and do i need it?
Secondly, where do i get the parts and how do i build it, do i put the components together and connect them to the positive end of the speaker, how does it work. Some help would be great!!! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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I know in the Zaph's build it says to use with a sub woofer, but I'm building an iPod dock like in the video, i still would like to get a little bass. I am clueless to how to build a correct filter for that. And i wanted to spend $60 total to build it, and so far I'm at $60 for speakers, amp, and iPod cable. Hopefully the filter components don't cost too much.
Can some one do me a huge favor and get me a parts list and where to buy them, for the given info above. Please,please,please,please,please,please,please,p lease,please,please,please,please,please,please,pl ease,please,please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Last edited by gio89; 21st November 2011 at 06:00 PM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bremerton, WA.
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I built a pair last year.
I roughly followed Zaphs design. IIRC mine are @3.75L instead of Zaphs @3.35L (a tad taller). IMO a filter is necessary. Maybe not Zaph's filter exactly. In my haste to hear them I did just what he says not to do with the filter, I used the .10mH inductor without unwinding it to .08mH. Even this incorrect filter is a huge improvement over the non filtered version. It knocks down the shout in the 8K region, giving the impression of more bass and a bit more extension on the top. Without it they're just plain rough to listen to. I also bought the other resistor values so I could choose the sound I liked. Even with my enclosure adjustment and filter omission, they sound nice to me and to those who've heard them. I use mine off my computer through a S.I. T-amp and without a sub. Zaphs right, the bass gets thicker and muddier the more you turn up the volume. But for near field they do fine for me. Zaphs site lists the 5 components necessary, L for inductor, C for capacitor and R for resistor. Parts Express has them all. In a pinch just twist them together just like the picture shows. Of course it's better to solder them together for the finished product. Unfortunatley the cost of the filter components is about equal to the cost of the drivers. R/ |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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They are a nice driver for line arrays as well........just saying
__________________
Life in a northern town..... |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Another filter question... My amp has treble and bass controls, in turn would that eliminate the need for a filter?
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