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Old 10th October 2011, 07:49 PM   #11
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MarkAudio gave instructions on how to install the driver, basically mark the holes with a 4 mm drill bit, then drill 2.8 mm pilot holes, make sure the driver is taped down when marking the holes, the 4 mm drill bit will move the driver otherwise. MarkAudio suggests having the driver upside down when marking with the 4 mm drill, so no slip up can destroy the metal cone. Obviously the driver is somewhere else when the pilot holes are being drilled. Then use the included screws to evenly insert the driver.

After all your efforts you now have a pair of elegant backhorns!
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Old 10th October 2011, 08:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highfieldrebel View Post
Route out the rebates for the driver, only make sure you use the dimensions for the 10.2 driver, not the gen 1 driver
The 10.2, at least here is North America, comes with the bezel cover loose, you can use it or not. Without it the rebate is the same as the gen 1 driver. This is how i choose to use them (and sell them). I do not like the raised circular rim that the bezel cover creates. Any additional stiffness engendered by the bezel becomes moot (at least mostly) once the driver is attached to the baffle. Using the driver sans decorative bezel cover also means the rebate is not as deep and leaves more meat to support the driver.

dave
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Old 10th October 2011, 08:09 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by highfieldrebel View Post
After all your efforts you now have a pair of elegant backhorns!
Do let us know how they sound. And if you can send me some hi-rez photos for the website & documents.

dave
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Old 10th October 2011, 08:10 PM   #14
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Sooo, little bits and pieces...

The speakers are really heavy, I'm guessing between 40 and 50 kg each! And there's this delicate piece you can't touch right where I want to put my hip! I ended up using a hand trolley to move them around.

There's a couple of deadspaces, I used dried sand to fill these.

There are a pair of 45 degree pieces at the horn mouths, I ended up using a rasp and sander to make these. I'm pleased with neither my technique nor the outcome If you don't have a mitre saw I suggest using steps of material to form this part might be good.

The visual impact of the horns isn't simple, the front view is very slim and elegant and the white of the unfinished (so far) BB, with the black and copper of the driver looks fantastic to my eyes. Then if you see them from the side, the depth is striking and they do seem quite monumental, in line with their name.

The attached picture might explain a little, here's a Silbury with the previous height of my carpentry achievements, a 15 inch woofer in a H frame. Technically the H-frame and open baffle are smaller, but they're way more obtrusive visually and inexpressibly ugly (to me). The larger Silbury has half its mass above the driver and so crowds the space less. I wasn't using the space above my H-frame and OB for anything anyway.
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Old 10th October 2011, 08:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highfieldrebel View Post
There are a pair of 45 degree pieces at the horn mouths, I ended up using a rasp and sander to make these. I'm pleased with neither my technique nor the outcome If you don't have a mitre saw I suggest using steps of material to form this part might be good.
Quote:
The visual impact of the horns isn't simple, the front view is very slim and elegant and the white of the unfinished (so far) BB, with the black and copper of the driver looks fantastic to my eyes. Then if you see them from the side, the depth is striking and they do seem quite monumental, in line with their name.

The attached picture might explain a little, here's a Silbury with the previous height of my carpentry achievements, a 15 inch woofer in a H frame. Technically the H-frame and open baffle are smaller, but they're way more obtrusive visually and inexpressibly ugly (to me). The larger Silbury has half its mass above the driver and so crowds the space less. I wasn't using the space above my H-frame and OB for anything anyway.
I well know, i lived with Bernies Victor for a month or more (very similar to Silbury, a bit wider, and for FE166En). The tall slim shape is very elegant,

dave
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Old 10th October 2011, 08:37 PM   #16
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Do let us know how they sound. And if you can send me some hi-rez photos for the website & documents.

dave
I just have my phone for pictures so I'll see if I can cadge a proper camera at work. Not too good though as there's still lots of rough edges. I've ordered a scraper kit for finishing. Until that gets here I'll be doing some listening.. and enjoying an obstruction free hallway.

Sound.... hmmmm. I have to laugh at how easy I find it to explain what I experience visually but soundwise I'm pretty tongue tied. The SNR is better than the FE166En in OB, i.e. I can distinguish low level sounds that I hadn't heard before, and I find lyrics more intelligible. The main experience I have though is that the sound is really immersive and involving, and much more so with my KT88 amps than my Burning Amps, no idea why this would be so. Scott said I could use more stuffing to attenuate the bass, and I can see why some would do so, it is powerful. The h-frame that's getting replaced was tuned to 40 Hz and had 150 W or so available from the amp (96 dB efficiency), this bass feels more powerful and impactful, it might not be accurate with current stuffing but for the type of music I listen to mostly, this is super. I think you would not want a small room to house these, about 3 m away or more seems best, at 9 m away the sound hasn't degraded, which is odd to me.
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Old 10th October 2011, 10:34 PM   #17
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The large cabinet really has a wonderful effect. It is also the reason you do not see these in stereo shops. Strictly a custom type design. Nice to see people building Scott's designs. You did a nice job on them.
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Old 11th October 2011, 12:51 PM   #18
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I'm interested in your listening impressions over time, as the alpair drivers break in and you become more aware of the differences between these and your open baffles.
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Old 11th October 2011, 03:03 PM   #19
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I'm interested in your listening impressions over time, as the alpair drivers break in and you become more aware of the differences between these and your open baffles.
I'll try but these things are so personal.... one thing that does seem absent so far is the occasional unpleasant sound the Fostex emitted, I think this is what people refer to as 'Fostex shout' but I could have that wrong. Nothing like that so far from the 10.2

motosapien - all credit to the designer and the nice building material, the snaps look like poor quality camera output, in fact it's Vaseline on the lens to hide the rough edges
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Old 11th October 2011, 05:05 PM   #20
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Actually they are not. Ron Clarke brought this design element to horns.
It helps the wavefront coming out of a high aspect ratio rectangular
horn mouth more easily approach the optimal spherical shape.

dave
Hi, sorry but thats pure marketing speak tosh, it does nothing of the sort in any effective sense, rgds, sreten.

The expansion is allegedly "Hypex" whatever than means, but properly tapered expansions will work better.
The design is simplistic, with parallel sections, it could easily be modified for 3 section tapers, YMMV.
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Last edited by sreten; 11th October 2011 at 05:12 PM.
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