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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: England
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This will be my long term build thread for my spheres in the form the IKEA Blanda. However it will be a modular system, as over time I will keep adding and adding to it to make it a multiway plus extras style system. The stands have been made in order to hang extra units on over time, giving me something to build with the excuse of making the system better instead of having just loads of random speakers. The first module to go on is the medium bowl and my fe103e’s. These I’ve feel have never ‘reached’ my subwoofer, whose top crossover is 85hz. Therefore here’s a list of what I hope to hang from the ‘pole.’
• Speaker floor spikes etc, cables to sub. • A large bowl containing a 5 inch woofer to bridge the gap and add some much needed ‘insert audio term here’ to the upper LF’s. • This of course is going to need a crossover, so a small flat box in the same shape as the base • Rebuild the stands using aluminium/ steel poles (hollow to run the cables down) and high thickness Perspex for the bases and also the arms that hold the sphere’s. • Tweeters (already have one to play with) or supertweeter (extended future), who knows, an excuse to build something. • Possibly the largest metal Blanda bowls for multiple subwoofer set up.(very extended future) Images below are the first spheres. Decided to add an extra circle of wood to the front as the drives don’t have a round chassis, plus I wanted extra strength. Therefore that left an angle gap between the two surfaces, so I’ve had to fill it in... The port is the best I could do as I wanted some ‘trumpet’, so they had to be smoothed into the wood, as well as the joins between the spacer and bowls. ![]() First cuts by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Glueing by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Experimenting for the grilles by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Cutting out rear port. by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Rear port and smoothing. by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr The stands are relatively simple: two pieces of 18mm ply screwed and glued together. Then a very solid piece of broom handle screwed and glued again. The whole thing is extremely solid and I could barley drill through the pole it was that dense. Great! Then a simple similar shaped arm is then cut out form 18mm ply and screwed on. ![]() Base of stand. by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() The stand in progress. by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr The colour of the first bowls is a copper, inspired by one of my favourite yachts I managed to see on holiday: Tiketitoo. No idea about the stands yet and I don’t have long to decide, never mind do them. ![]() DSCN1086 by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr Over time is a quick mock up Google sketch up model of what hopefully it will start to look like over time, with more 'stuff' being added. ![]() speaker mock up by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr That'll do for now, thanks for reading |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
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superb!
__________________
some of my Designs www.dynablaster.deviantart.com/gallery |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: iowa
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nice boat.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Prague
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Unless you plan to bolt that base to the floor, I can't even begin tell you how unstable that is going to be. A stiff breeze, nevermind a dog or visiting child, will send it falling like the tower of Babel. Either make the stands MUCH wider and out of stone or sand filled boxes with far stronger supports, or run a support wire up to the roof.
I dropped one of those Ikea bowls once, fortunately not with a driver in it, and is shattered almost like glass. I ended up using a normal cabinet from 18mm birch plywood in the end, far more rigid. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: England
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Yes probably will be. I will experiment and build some outriggers.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: England
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Currently experimenting with the base coats to get a smooth finish as they were slight pits/ bumps around the joins and either end. Will obviously still need sanding down.
![]() Overview of new basecoat by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Another overview of the new basecoat by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: England
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2 hours of sanding resulted in this. Primer tomorrow and the the copper-chrome if it all goes well. The a whole other sphere to do and then the stands.
![]() Finished sanding to get my smooth surface. by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Rear after sanding by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: England
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Some more progress. First of all the primer was applied:
![]() Primer on by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Primer on by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr And then the copper. I realise I have used a colour which needs a very good surface and is hard to paint with, so there are some imperfections(I'm picky, but so you should be else you will never improve). However there will be a matte varnish to be applied, which hopefully will help. Anyone have any suggestions to further help the paint? ![]() Damn finger prints by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr ![]() Yes there's a few imperfections.. by Simply_Ginniff, on Flickr |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Yes
more primer and more sanding until mirror shine Last edited by barackuda; 25th September 2011 at 10:17 PM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: England
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