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Old 23rd July 2012, 04:10 AM   #111
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When assembling the builds I've made, an adjustable try square is indispensable. As you set up a glued side check it frequently. I'd suggest not going clamp crazy until you've handled a few pieces. Glue creep and losing your square corner can come as the glue settles in.

Experiment if you wish but I've found that letting gravity set the glue with a good hand squeeze will allow that try square to do it's work: when both sides touch the square and the edge is flush you've made a good start. As you go, there are other checks for the completed carcasse such as the diagonal measure: both diagonals will measure exactly the same if in square. An inexpensive wooden folding carpenter's rule will read better that a windup or 'rolling' tape measure. The reason is that the clip at the end may not be tight or a true measure.
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Old 30th August 2012, 04:59 PM   #112
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What do you guys (planet10) think of the possibility of getting the CNC plans from Madisound? I have access to a CNC Lathe and it would be tits to just point and shoot so to speak. Thanks
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Old 30th August 2012, 06:21 PM   #113
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Ask them. Althou i suspect they don't have them, their contractor does.

Using CNC for these (except for maybe rebated baffle) seems a waste... all the panels could be cut-out on a big table saw in the time it would take to setup the CNC.

dave
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Old 30th August 2012, 06:45 PM   #114
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Ask them. Althou i suspect they don't have them, their contractor does.

Using CNC for these (except for maybe rebated baffle) seems a waste... all the panels could be cut-out on a big table saw in the time it would take to setup the CNC.

dave

I'd concur with Dave- the only part on these for which I'd wanna use a CNC would be the rebated driver cut-out. It'd take no more than 10 minutes to cut all the parts to rough size, and since 5 pieces should really get a bevel cut on at least one end (not all 45`) you'll need either a 5-axis CNC router (not lathe), or a good ole table saw and tenoning jig.

Fostex's pincushion design is rather more than 3 lines of code. While our CADCAM environment is rather arcane and the CNC code isn't readily accessible, I do have my own DXFs for both the BK12 and the Fostex driver, if those could be of any help.
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Old 30th August 2012, 08:02 PM   #115
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Thanks for the thoughts. I must admit my nativity when it comes to these machines capacities. I do know it is not a 5 axis though. The only reason it seemed so useful was the (not correct term) tongue and groove style construction of the Madisound flatpacks that allows for pretty effortless assembly. I'll check with my cousin about the DXF files. Thanks again guys!
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Old 30th August 2012, 08:42 PM   #116
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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note that the Madisound kit does not rebate the Fostex driver for flush mounting (which many folks posit is not essential with their thin flange and "diffraction control" plastic insert ring), but they to chamfer the rear side of driver through hole, which should not really be considered optional when mounting any small FR driver on material thicker than ~12mm (1/2")
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Old 31st August 2012, 04:52 AM   #117
rka is offline rka  United States
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Default Refraction ring/Grill

Here is my solution.
I read that the paper cones that Fostex uses are prone (like many materials) to ultraviolet degradation. Since the driver face stands about an eighth of an inch proud of the speaker baffle, I made a speaker grill frame from door skin plywood with a cutout just the size of the driver face, covered it with a very light knit synthetic fabric (cost about a dollar and a half for a running foot). To retain the grill, I drilled four thru holes for 1/4 diameter X 1/8 inch thick rare earth magnets from Lee Valley. I also drilled and countersunk for #8 X 1/2 inch flathead wood screws on the speaker cabinet. To make sure the magnets lined up with the screws, I first drilled 1/8 inch holes in the grill frame to use for a template to mark the speaker cabinets.
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Old 31st August 2012, 11:51 PM   #118
rka is offline rka  United States
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Default Grill

Some Pictures to Illustrate:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0583.JPG (141.5 KB, 370 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0584.JPG (163.3 KB, 356 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0586.JPG (146.4 KB, 354 views)
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Old 1st September 2012, 05:29 AM   #119
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rka View Post
Here is my solution.
I read that the paper cones that Fostex uses are prone (like many materials) to ultraviolet degradation. Since the driver face stands about an eighth of an inch proud of the speaker baffle, I made a speaker grill frame from door skin plywood with a cutout just the size of the driver face, covered it with a very light knit synthetic fabric (cost about a dollar and a half for a running foot). To retain the grill, I drilled four thru holes for 1/4 diameter X 1/8 inch thick rare earth magnets from Lee Valley. I also drilled and countersunk for #8 X 1/2 inch flathead wood screws on the speaker cabinet. To make sure the magnets lined up with the screws, I first drilled 1/8 inch holes in the grill frame to use for a template to mark the speaker cabinets.

I like fabric grilles for an entirely different reason (named Sue) - indeed a major factor in all my calculus of aesthetics. As to the Fostex paper cone material being prone to UV induced deterioration, it's been my experience that all synthetic polymer / plastic cones and certainly foam surround materials of yester-yore are at least as much if not more so. In other words, I'd probably be more concerned about the cumulative effects of UV on my epidermis and retinas than on the paper cones of speakers used indoors.

Note that with the same template alignment you already use, and careful setting of depth in holes drilled in the baffles, you can fluch mount the same magnets ( Lee Valley 1/4" rods) on the enclosures and bury under veneer ( or paint over) , for a elegant hidden, and auto-aligning installation - the grilles will literally jump the last 1/2" or so out of your hands and land in place. Of course when you use a pair of magnets in this fashion, you do need to pay attention to polarity of all 8
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Old 1st September 2012, 08:23 AM   #120
rka is offline rka  United States
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Default Magnets

Actually, I used four magnets per grill and four steel flat head screws in the speaker cabinet. The amount of force the magnets isn't all that powerful but enough that the grill doesn't fall of when touched. The magnets are glued in place with super glue. I also forgot to mention that the fabric came from Joe Ann's Fabrics, which is why it cost so little.
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