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Old 10th July 2012, 04:26 PM   #91
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post
Hi Scott

Are you suggesting a FF125WK in the BK12 ?

see also my PM re the FE126EN, but a couple more public musings:

it's possible to over-stuff an enclosure which can certainly result in weakened LF extension / impact, exacerbating the 126's forward nature

I quite like the FF125W. although admittedly the nominal 4dB sensitivity penalty compared to the 126 could be a "deal breaker" for some situations, such as use with flea powered SET amps. Compared to the 126, I've personally found it sounds far smoother / less aggressive in the upper mid band than the published graphs would suggest, and at $5 more, still represent an excellent value IMO. If you decide to try them in the BK12s and don't like them, there are several other enclosures in which I've heard them work very well.
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Old 10th July 2012, 07:49 PM   #92
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Chris

Thanks for further musings.

I only used moderate stuffing as I didn.t have alot left over from previous projects. Also I did follow the plans (Downloaded from Madisound) as per stuffing quantity.

Sensitivity is usually not an issue, and I have the Dynaco Stereo 70, and my room is not overly large.

I'll do some experiments with the other 4" drivers that I have and see what prevails.

Regards

Simon
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Old 10th July 2012, 08:04 PM   #93
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post
Chris

Thanks for further musings.

I only used moderate stuffing as I didn.t have alot left over from previous projects. Also I did follow the plans (Downloaded from Madisound) as per stuffing quantity.

Sensitivity is usually not an issue, and I have the Dynaco Stereo 70, and my room is not overly large.

I'll do some experiments with the other 4" drivers that I have and see what prevails.

Regards

Simon

have fun with all of it - and of course keep us all posted
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Old 11th July 2012, 01:47 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Speaker Tweeks -- Puzzlecoat & Ductseal

2nd half of the article

dave
Thanks Dave. I'm currently in the process of building the BK-12m (my first attempt at DIY), sourced the parts at Madi and DIYd the box using 3/4 plywood. Have some more noob questions re this
1. do you need to apply silicone sealant to have an airtight seal?
2. fill the i4 and i5 chambers with sand?
3. what's the best route for the internal wire- through a hole at i1 or snake it through the chambers to a terminal cup or binding posts at the back board?

cheers
agsmd793
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Old 11th July 2012, 04:27 PM   #95
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agsmd793 View Post
Thanks Dave. I'm currently in the process of building the BK-12m (my first attempt at DIY), sourced the parts at Madi and DIYd the box using 3/4 plywood. Have some more noob questions re this
1. do you need to apply silicone sealant to have an airtight seal?
with a DIY build (as opposed to the Madisound flat-pack) provided clean cut glue edges, I've found standard yellow cabinetmaking glue sufficient - but if you're not completely confident of say the mitered ends of the 3 deflectors, some silicone as well probably couldn't hurt. There's another option that also eliminates the need to fill the voids behind those deflectors - create a staircase of stacked blocks to approximate the slopes. (see PDF)

Quote:
2. fill the i4 and i5 chambers with sand?
provided the deflector voids are fully sealed to avoid leakage, it probably couldn't hurt - but see above

Quote:
3. what's the best route for the internal wire- through a hole at i1 or snake it through the chambers to a terminal cup or binding posts at the back board?

cheers
agsmd793
I like to take the shortest route possible; I'd be inclined to install the input terminals approx 100mm from top of back panel so the wires enter just below rear i4 deflector (or stepped blocks), dress them along the top and enter the rear wall of driver chamber, either just below or through the forward deflector. Drill hole just large enough for your wire of choice, and seal with silicone.

Of course you need to do this before attaching the second side.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf bk12steps.pdf (3.5 KB, 142 views)
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Last edited by chrisb; 11th July 2012 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 11th July 2012, 04:52 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agsmd793 View Post
1. do you need to apply silicone sealant to have an airtight seal?
2. fill the i4 and i5 chambers with sand?
3. what's the best route for the internal wire- through a hole at i1 or snake it through the chambers to a terminal cup or binding posts at the back board?
1/ Not if the parts are cut well
2/ sure, why not
3/ the best route is the one that works best for you.

dave
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Old 19th July 2012, 04:05 PM   #97
MattWW is offline MattWW  Austria
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Default My BK-12ms

A big thanks to Planet 10 for this plan, built these from scratch mainly out of 3/4" MDF with a piece of stained beech for the baffle. (I live in Europe so shipping the madisound kit over here wouldn't be worth it)

Powering them off a Topping TP21 class T amp.

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Old 19th July 2012, 07:38 PM   #98
pbkrag is offline pbkrag  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaramoucheii View Post
they just seem very shouty, and I tire easily listening to them.

I recently built the Fostex BK-12m Folded Horn Kit and in many ways I really like them, but found them to be a little fatiguing too. I added some baffle step correction and that seems to have tamed them a bit and I'm no longer fatigued. Also I think as they wear in they are improving too.
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Old 19th July 2012, 10:51 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbkrag View Post
I recently built the Fostex BK-12m Folded Horn Kit and in many ways I really like them, but found them to be a little fatiguing too. I added some baffle step correction and that seems to have tamed them a bit and I'm no longer fatigued. Also I think as they wear in they are improving too.
Could you share the baffle step correction info with us?
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Old 20th July 2012, 07:43 AM   #100
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They shouldn't require any correction for step loss. That's one of the objects of using a horn in the first place. However, since in practice the 126 does have a rising response / some peaking in the upper registers, a shelving filter (same deal) can help, particularly if you're running a low output impedance amplifer, which the 126 is not designed to be used with.
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