I have a pair of µFonken cabinets that I started building a couple of years ago(gosh has it really been that long?) and I never bought drivers for them.
Is there a suitable or perhaps recommended alternative to the FF85K now that it is NLA?
Sorry if this has been extensively covered already.
-Josh
Is there a suitable or perhaps recommended alternative to the FF85K now that it is NLA?
Sorry if this has been extensively covered already.
-Josh
not extensively covered to death, yet - the FF85WK is the direct descendant, and for my money improvement over the prior model - in any case it'll work just fine in the same box
Just in case this member is still here, did you finally install the FF85WK in those cabinets? Can you compare the sound with the HK you had in there? I mean did the HKs sound "incorrect" in a cab not designed for them? (The reason I'm asking is because I found a plan for a Omnes Audio BB3.AL which I read is similar but not exactly the same as the Veravox 3X. And the manufacturer of the Veravox 3X told me the plan "should be OK".)
It's not because two somewhat similar drivers may by coincidence work well in one cab; that two other somewhat similar drivers would work well in another cab.
In general if core parameters (say, Qts, Vas, fa, possibly xmax) do not differ too much it MAY work but you cannot assume anything when it comes to speaker design...
In your case, unless you want to design from scratch, it seems that you'll just have to try the alternative enclosure and see.
(Edit): did you mean this design:
http://ebmule.de/showthread.php?tid=2078
Personally I'd put the bass reflex mouth in the front.
And use a terminal for bi-amping (2 pairs of connectors): connect the black ones to the - connector of the speaker, and one red one directly to the + of the speaker and the other one first through the correction filter of the design. Then you can easily switch between "direct" and "flattened" frequency response by replugging the red cable.
In general if core parameters (say, Qts, Vas, fa, possibly xmax) do not differ too much it MAY work but you cannot assume anything when it comes to speaker design...
In your case, unless you want to design from scratch, it seems that you'll just have to try the alternative enclosure and see.
(Edit): did you mean this design:
http://ebmule.de/showthread.php?tid=2078
Personally I'd put the bass reflex mouth in the front.
And use a terminal for bi-amping (2 pairs of connectors): connect the black ones to the - connector of the speaker, and one red one directly to the + of the speaker and the other one first through the correction filter of the design. Then you can easily switch between "direct" and "flattened" frequency response by replugging the red cable.
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Talaerts,
+1, That's a simple but really good idea
for testing out alternative configurations.
I did mean that design. But, what if I decided to make a copy of that design with cardboard and used enough cardboard and glue to really seal it. Would I have at least an idea what's OK?
I'm still waiting for my books on speaker building to arrive. But one of the ideas I thought about was making a cabinet at one point where one panel could slide farther and farther out to test different volume amounts to really get a feel for an "ideal" cabinet size. Then I'd end up wondering about specs changing after the 100 hour burn-in. Or, maybe not. I don't know how perfectionist I'd want to be in this. One part of me wants "OK" speakers that do everything (like movies and music) and the other part of me wants to learn about tube amps and vinyl...
But, I also know one variable is the amount of damping material. Sheesh, if I do make something "correct", I'll probably publish the details so everyone knows.
Well, I'm still waiting for a reply from meniscusaudio to find out if they can make a flat pack and send it to me.
Of course, if or when my speaker building books arrive, I'll probably bombard you people with questions on how to use WinISD. Then I'll probably try to simulate the hell out of the plans linked up there. Uh, anyone know if I can use WinISD without Excel?
Why would you order a flatpack online? Is there not wood shop in your neighborhood? This is a very simple cabinet, every shop can easily cut your panels to measure.
Regarding WinISD, nothing prevents you from using it now already. It doesn't need Excel.
how about investing in a night school woodworking course, or even polling local high school shop teachers - I'd be surprised if there weren't sumyunguy interested in projects less time consuming than mobile sub boxes
but of course you need to settle on a project to start with.
huh - you lost me there
there are other folks besides Meniscus, (some even forum members within low cost mailing distance or even a short day trip from you) capable of cutting parts for a kit
once you decide on what that'll be
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