Hi everyone,
I have bought 2 NOS Olson SS-311 12" Coxial Loudspeakers as you see pics:
Can you help me to make the right cabinet for these speakers.
Pls let me know the Dimensions, Structure and material might need.
Thanks alot for helping me DIY my speakers.
Hoang Do
I have bought 2 NOS Olson SS-311 12" Coxial Loudspeakers as you see pics:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Can you help me to make the right cabinet for these speakers.
Pls let me know the Dimensions, Structure and material might need.
Thanks alot for helping me DIY my speakers.
Hoang Do
Hello,
You need to develop some patience, a lot of us were either at work or asleep when you posted, not to mention folks should spend some time doing research on their own before posting. 'Google' is your friend: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/85381-olson-s-311-a.html
GM
You need to develop some patience, a lot of us were either at work or asleep when you posted, not to mention folks should spend some time doing research on their own before posting. 'Google' is your friend: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/85381-olson-s-311-a.html
GM
You're welcome! My memory is really dim now on most of the cheap drivers I used back when they were readily available, so no longer recall the difference between the two, but these were before T/S and most drivers tended to have a 'sameness' of overall specs so that a wide variety of the same frame size driver would work at least OK in University, EV, Jensen, etc. factory cabs as an acceptable replacement, hence the simple DIY formulas and nomographs the average DIYer used.
Factor in that they would typically be driven with a high output impedance causing the cab to be over-sized when driven with a typical SS amp, so typically it's large enough to allow considerable in-room tuning by adjusting internal damping, vent tuning.
If you want the absolute smallest cab for a given performance level, then you will have to measure at least its T/S specs and use a box program to find it.
GM
Factor in that they would typically be driven with a high output impedance causing the cab to be over-sized when driven with a typical SS amp, so typically it's large enough to allow considerable in-room tuning by adjusting internal damping, vent tuning.
If you want the absolute smallest cab for a given performance level, then you will have to measure at least its T/S specs and use a box program to find it.
GM
OK, hope it works for you since it will have limited tuning capability. Please post back on this thread and let us know how it turns out. Better yet, post some build pictures as it progresses along with your room, electronics and any additional tuning required [if any] to get a good blend as I know there's others who would like to know more about this type of cab.
GM
GM
I am jus in the information gathering step. Once have everything on desk, i will move.
Anyway, i found on website : tannoy
there is a style of Back Load Horn cab, and it said that this could be useable for both 12 "- 15" tannoy speaker. I wonder whether it will work on my driver OLSON.
Neither information nor specification about it on Google, jus some north europa xxx girl for this name.
Anyway, i found on website : tannoy
there is a style of Back Load Horn cab, and it said that this could be useable for both 12 "- 15" tannoy speaker. I wonder whether it will work on my driver OLSON.
Neither information nor specification about it on Google, jus some north europa xxx girl for this name.
The SS-311 was a relatively low cost driver. With few exceptions (Bozak B-200, RCA LC-1a), the better coaxial drivers from those years used horn tweeters and quite often a whizzer cone. Usually, the upmarket coaxial drivers were quite efficient and had a low to medium Qts. Your drivers most likely have a Qts in the 0.7 to 1.5 range. As a result, the SS-311's will almost certainly not perform well in a cabinet designed for a Tannoy dual-concentric, Jensen G-610 or Altec 604.
At modest spl's they will likely sound quite pleasing in a 3-4 cf U-frame (open back cabinet). Build the enclosures so that you can experiment, by allowing the addition of a fastened/sealed back (for infinite baffle) and an adjustable/sealed rectangular cutout for trying bass reflex. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how good the open-back (and possibly) the infinite baffle cabinets will sound.
For best results be sure to check the crossover cap(s), probably mounted under the magnet dust cover. Consider replacing them with decent film caps - it will improve definition and extension.
BTW, have you tried listening to them yet? Just mount them on a board (at least 2x3 ft.), prop them up from behind and listen. They will probably need some breakin (especially the cone tweeters): at least a few 10's of hours. I have not heard the Olsons, but have been impressed with the sound quality available from a relatively light weight paper cone woofer and cone tweeter. They are often quite efficient, with good dynamics and natural voice reproduction.
Good luck,
Bob
At modest spl's they will likely sound quite pleasing in a 3-4 cf U-frame (open back cabinet). Build the enclosures so that you can experiment, by allowing the addition of a fastened/sealed back (for infinite baffle) and an adjustable/sealed rectangular cutout for trying bass reflex. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how good the open-back (and possibly) the infinite baffle cabinets will sound.
For best results be sure to check the crossover cap(s), probably mounted under the magnet dust cover. Consider replacing them with decent film caps - it will improve definition and extension.
BTW, have you tried listening to them yet? Just mount them on a board (at least 2x3 ft.), prop them up from behind and listen. They will probably need some breakin (especially the cone tweeters): at least a few 10's of hours. I have not heard the Olsons, but have been impressed with the sound quality available from a relatively light weight paper cone woofer and cone tweeter. They are often quite efficient, with good dynamics and natural voice reproduction.
Good luck,
Bob
Thanks AstroSonic alot for your information. In the answer i have your advice for the type of box. However, i need some other parameter to begin as : Box Vas, 3 dimension, port dimension... the rectangle cutout dimension. It would be much appreciate if i could have this.
Again thanks bro for helps.
Hoang
Again thanks bro for helps.
Hoang
For a 4 cf cabinet use internal dimensions of 28x20x12.5 inches.
Cut a 4x8 inch rectangular vent in the back panel.
Make a sliding cover with 3/4 inch total thickness (same for the enclosure) to allow full coverage or adjustable vent (variable tuning). This should allow tuning from about 30 to 55 Hz.
Most likely it will sound best with most of the vent fully open, and with cloth stretched over it. This will be aperiodic like the Dynaco A-25. You will need to experiment with the number of cloth layers for the best sound.
You will need dacron pillow stuffing or acoustastuff to line the inside of the enclosure (all surfaces) to damp standing waves.
Feel free to ask questions and let us know how they turn out.
Regards,
Bob
Cut a 4x8 inch rectangular vent in the back panel.
Make a sliding cover with 3/4 inch total thickness (same for the enclosure) to allow full coverage or adjustable vent (variable tuning). This should allow tuning from about 30 to 55 Hz.
Most likely it will sound best with most of the vent fully open, and with cloth stretched over it. This will be aperiodic like the Dynaco A-25. You will need to experiment with the number of cloth layers for the best sound.
You will need dacron pillow stuffing or acoustastuff to line the inside of the enclosure (all surfaces) to damp standing waves.
Feel free to ask questions and let us know how they turn out.
Regards,
Bob
Hi AstroSonic,
I searched in my country forum, there is a man did this Open Baffle cabinet, it is not quite a cabinet...
Do you thing that it will work with my drivers?
I searched in my country forum, there is a man did this Open Baffle cabinet, it is not quite a cabinet...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do you thing that it will work with my drivers?
An open baffle like that in the picture will certainly work. In order to hear the higher frequencies, the Olson will have to be mounted up off the floor so that the tweeter is at ear level. Tilt-back can allow positioning closer to the floor, which will also help the bass. The weak point of this design is the bass extension. The sound may be a little thin and lack deep (even lower mid) bass. However, what is there will be well defined. In the long run you will probably want to augment the bass with a sub.
OTOH, the 4 cf cabinet implemented as an open back enclosure, infinite baffle (sealed) or aperiodic will have a more balanced sound due to superior bass extension. Very likely the bass quality will also be quite good. Anyway, that has been my experience with drivers of that vintage and market position.
I would not hesitate to mount the Olsons on a 30x48 inch (don't worry about the exact size for now - a little larger or smaller is ok) board (plywood, particle board, etc.), tilted back and braced from behind, just to break them in and hear how they sound. This will also help you to make a decision on enclosure type to build.
Regards,
Bob
OTOH, the 4 cf cabinet implemented as an open back enclosure, infinite baffle (sealed) or aperiodic will have a more balanced sound due to superior bass extension. Very likely the bass quality will also be quite good. Anyway, that has been my experience with drivers of that vintage and market position.
I would not hesitate to mount the Olsons on a 30x48 inch (don't worry about the exact size for now - a little larger or smaller is ok) board (plywood, particle board, etc.), tilted back and braced from behind, just to break them in and hear how they sound. This will also help you to make a decision on enclosure type to build.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob,
As you advise, i draw a diagram like this
Is that what you mean? If yes, i have some ?? of dimensions on this diagram. However, i will try to tight it on a board to try the sound as you said.
Thanks man. I really appreaciate for your help.
Hoang
As you advise, i draw a diagram like this
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is that what you mean? If yes, i have some ?? of dimensions on this diagram. However, i will try to tight it on a board to try the sound as you said.
Thanks man. I really appreaciate for your help.
Hoang
Yes, that's the idea. I would bring the top edge of the driver cutout to within 2-3 inches of the top in order to bring the axis of the driver closer to ear level. You may also want to build a simple stand (from four 3-6 inch wide pieces pieced together) or sturdy legs to raise it a little higher.
Put the bottom of the vent about 6 inches above the bottom of the back panel.
We haven't talked about braces yet, but it will need a few when the time comes.
Regards,
Bob
Put the bottom of the vent about 6 inches above the bottom of the back panel.
We haven't talked about braces yet, but it will need a few when the time comes.
Regards,
Bob
You mean the brace from front to the back? i will use the triangle coner in each conner of this cab. If needed, i will add 2 embrace in the middle of the 2 side board. left and right. or do you mean it would be below the Drivers?
I prefer to build the driver cut out relatively in the middle of the cab for the ballance look. Yes in order to do that, i also have to build a standing box or kind of legs for those cabs.
Thanks, you are the man.
Hoang
I prefer to build the driver cut out relatively in the middle of the cab for the ballance look. Yes in order to do that, i also have to build a standing box or kind of legs for those cabs.
Thanks, you are the man.
Hoang
Hi everyone,
Finally, i made my loud speakers.
They are open baffle design ( totally open) not box, or frame.... And it works.
Sound detailed and sweet for Midrange : voice of singer, saxophone, violin....)
Bass is deep and "round" better than my current system.
40 Kg / 2 speaker +cabinets.
Dimension: Front panel : 120 x 50cm
Wing panel: 120 x 36 cm
panel thick: 1.8cm
Thanks to all for your contribution to my project.
Cheers
Hoang Do
Finally, i made my loud speakers.
They are open baffle design ( totally open) not box, or frame.... And it works.
Sound detailed and sweet for Midrange : voice of singer, saxophone, violin....)
Bass is deep and "round" better than my current system.
40 Kg / 2 speaker +cabinets.
Dimension: Front panel : 120 x 50cm
Wing panel: 120 x 36 cm
panel thick: 1.8cm
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks to all for your contribution to my project.
Cheers
Hoang Do
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