gem or garbage?
i acquired 2 recently,
unlikely ill ever use them as im kind of a bookshelf+ sub, boombox or car audio kinda guy.
they're about 15 " each, and pretty stiff/springy/resonant when tapping the cone
if anyone wants them id be happy to sell or trade for anything i can use
or do i put them in the trash
?
i acquired 2 recently,
unlikely ill ever use them as im kind of a bookshelf+ sub, boombox or car audio kinda guy.
they're about 15 " each, and pretty stiff/springy/resonant when tapping the cone
if anyone wants them id be happy to sell or trade for anything i can use
or do i put them in the trash
?
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Here's something I found:
ID'ing old Magnavox console components
"Here is what I do know:
This unit was one of Magnavox's first solid-state versions ca. 1965.
It was about 6 feet long with removable sliding wooden panels on the top.
The control unit and record-changer were in the right-hand side.
An album storage bin and speaker selector switch were located in the
left-had side
The amp was 50 watts and was remotely located in the bottom of the cabinet.
The woofers are 15" in diameter and say, 'Magnavox 581515-1 719' "
probably not full range then. But if you search for the part number you'll find other reports of similar consoles. Can you measure them?
ID'ing old Magnavox console components
"Here is what I do know:
This unit was one of Magnavox's first solid-state versions ca. 1965.
It was about 6 feet long with removable sliding wooden panels on the top.
The control unit and record-changer were in the right-hand side.
An album storage bin and speaker selector switch were located in the
left-had side
The amp was 50 watts and was remotely located in the bottom of the cabinet.
The woofers are 15" in diameter and say, 'Magnavox 581515-1 719' "
probably not full range then. But if you search for the part number you'll find other reports of similar consoles. Can you measure them?
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The Magnets look very small and do not look to be ALNICO but the over all build quality looks good. I wouldn't expect them to handle a lot of power but the light weight paper cones should give decent mid range performance. They would most likel make an excellent guitar speaker. Just guessing though.
Don't recall numbers anymore, but they sure look like what I used in early 48" high x 2 ft^2 open bottom TLs, so high Qt. Fs was around 40 Hz and had output to 10+ kHz for good overlap with a 1st order XO. My memory is they're AlNiCo, but an easy way to tell is wave them around a CRT TV or monitor, small compass, etc.. If it doesn't affect it, its AlNiCo.
GM
GM
critical point. I guess most of the ALNICOS I've seen have that horseshoe looking thing around them, but it looks like I'm wrong. I don't have a lot of experience with old speakers so I was giving my best guess.
Yes, the ones I used worked well for both lead and bass guitar practice amps.
As a good rule-of-thumb, but there was a lot of experimentation going on WRT electrical motor design during the time of the drivers I used, so if I'd found these I would check them just to be sure.
This begs the question, what driver design criteria qualifies it as 'HIFI' for you?
GM
They require a magnetic return circuit to maintain high efficiency, hence the 'horseshoe' on cheap motors, handheld magnets or a more efficient 'pot' which may also do double duty as a rear cover.
GM
Hi,
That is a good question without an easy answer. In this case IMO
depending on what you want, or what to do, other drivers would
be better suited for most HiFi cases.
Here again IMO, the drivers do suit retro rebuilds or would suit
a fairly large open-backed jazz guitar (valve of course) combo.
For the latter some modern drivers would sound completely different,
which is why I'm tying it down to a specific guitar application. I don't
know how well it would work, but at least it could work very well, I
can think of lots of applications they are very unlikely to work well.
Value wise IMHO, whack them in a guitar speaker cabinet, best place.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW the open yoke, horseshoe or U frame AlNiCo's are the cheapest.
The full round yoke versions are more expensive, work slightly better,
and in terms of a typical ceramic magnet driver, have a low field.
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