Midbass Tinsel Lead Slap/Vibration

Do It Yourself · 08:17 PM

i have a boston acoustics cr6 bookshelf speaker and its woofer has a tinsel lead vibrating against the cone
any fixes?

pictures
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/232/img1054h.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/img1055vq.jpg/

Do It Yourself · 2nd August 2011, 08:27 PM

i accidently put this in full range board
it should be in multi way
oops

jimbro · 2nd August 2011, 10:26 PM

I don't think it matters what forum this problem is posted in. I would try and tie it down with something non-resonant. You could glue an anchor to the magnet and use a stiff insulated wire or a pipe cleaner for example. Not a real elegant solution I admit. Might take some trail and error. Just be gentle. Good luck.

Do It Yourself · 2nd August 2011, 10:35 PM

i'm thinking about melting the solder where it connects and take a tiny bit of slack out of it

Michael Bean · 2nd August 2011, 10:48 PM

I wouldn't recommend soldering unless you're willing to risk ruining the driver. I've had luck using a small dab of RTV right at the point where the lead attaches to the cone to hold it up off the cone surface at a right angle, just use something to hold it up off the cone while the RTV sets.

Mike

Do It Yourself · 2nd August 2011, 11:16 PM

ya right after i thought about the solder i thought about using a dab of hot glue to hold the lead down right where it makes that right angle near the solder

Michael Bean · 11:45 PM

Hot glue would be too stiff, RTV remains flexible. And I don't think it would be a good idea to glue it down to the cone, beyond making the lead functionally shorter, it might put undue stress on the cone.

Mike

2nd August 2011, 08:11 PM	#1
Do It Yourself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2009	Midbass Tinsel Lead Slap/Vibration i have a boston acoustics cr6 bookshelf speaker and its woofer has a tinsel lead vibrating against the cone any fixes? pictures http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/232/img1054h.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/img1055vq.jpg/ Last edited by Do It Yourself; 2nd August 2011 at 08:17 PM.

2nd August 2011, 11:42 PM	#7
Michael Bean diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA	Hot glue would be too stiff, RTV remains flexible. And I don't think it would be a good idea to glue it down to the cone, beyond making the lead functionally shorter, it might put undue stress on the cone. Mike Last edited by Michael Bean; 2nd August 2011 at 11:45 PM.

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2nd August 2011, 08:27 PM	#2
Do It Yourself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2009	i accidently put this in full range board it should be in multi way oops

2nd August 2011, 10:26 PM	#3
jimbro diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: somewhere in Texas	I don't think it matters what forum this problem is posted in. I would try and tie it down with something non-resonant. You could glue an anchor to the magnet and use a stiff insulated wire or a pipe cleaner for example. Not a real elegant solution I admit. Might take some trail and error. Just be gentle. Good luck.

2nd August 2011, 10:35 PM	#4
Do It Yourself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2009	i'm thinking about melting the solder where it connects and take a tiny bit of slack out of it

2nd August 2011, 10:48 PM	#5
Michael Bean diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA	I wouldn't recommend soldering unless you're willing to risk ruining the driver. I've had luck using a small dab of RTV right at the point where the lead attaches to the cone to hold it up off the cone surface at a right angle, just use something to hold it up off the cone while the RTV sets. Mike

2nd August 2011, 11:16 PM	#6
Do It Yourself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2009	ya right after i thought about the solder i thought about using a dab of hot glue to hold the lead down right where it makes that right angle near the solder

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