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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: S'toon
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Morning!!
So...after a few days of reading I am still a tad bit confused with open baffles LOL!!! What I would like is an OB about 18"-20" wide, 48" tall, no side wings...I have dual sub running off a miniDSP that I can cross over at anywhere between 80-100hz....I can measure the driver to smooth them out afterwards too if that helps. Now...question...what kind of driver would work in this situation?? I'm reading about higher Qts...12" in size maybe?? 15"?? I'm getting lost...this is where the confusion starts There are so many drivers out there...new and vintage...that and maybe all the painting my wife is making me do is getting to my head So with a big PLEASE...some help!! Thanks kindly!!! Dave
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Virtue TWO.2,TEAC AL700P,DEQX 2.6P,Systemdek IIX,Nagaoka MP11 Boron,ART DJPre II,Squeezebox,Open Baffle Eminence-B&C,2xVelodyne CHT10 Subs |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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OK, so you want a narrow baffle with no wings and get solidly down to 80 or 100Hz. Off the top of my head I would say that means an 8" or larger driver with a highish Qts (I would think 0.8 minimum and better higher) if you are going to be in anything but a really small room. I would seriously reconsider adding at least some small wings of say 5" or so as it will help.
That will require a pretty good driver or a helper tweeter to get good high end. Another option would be to go with smaller 4 to 5" full range and use a helper woofer of 10 or 12" with high Q. If your budget allows the Silver Iris Coax driver would do it all in a single package and works well on small baffles from all reports I have heard. The tweeter is a horn but you still get the OB effect in the all important midrange. As to Q you need a Q higher than the final system Q that you want in order to compensate for the baffle losses. A system Q of around 0.7 down to maybe 0.5 is considered optimal by most folks. You can get around a low Q if you have high xmax by using a bunch of EQ. but then you have a distortion penalty to pay. My system is doing pretty well with a 10" helper woofer with a Q of IIRC about 1.1 or 1.2 in an 18" baffle with 5" wings. Sub starts taking over at around 60Hz.
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mike - www.keepingsundayspecial.org |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf
rgds, sreten. (You need a big bass driver due to baffle loss).
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow Last edited by sreten; 13th July 2011 at 12:18 AM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: S'toon
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Silver Iris Coax??
Excellent!!! Doing the research now...this sounds extremely promising and it won't break the bank!!! Super thanks!!! LOL!!! And sreten...I'll be reading that pdf shorty...thanks again!! Cheers!! Dave
__________________
Virtue TWO.2,TEAC AL700P,DEQX 2.6P,Systemdek IIX,Nagaoka MP11 Boron,ART DJPre II,Squeezebox,Open Baffle Eminence-B&C,2xVelodyne CHT10 Subs |
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