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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Have anyone built these? I bought the plans in order to start on them wilst saving up for the drivers, but I really am clueless as to what is the best approach.
Can I just make them so as I make the front according to specs and then fit the top and bottom and back inside the sidepanels, so the joints are on the top, bottom and back? The external dimention should be right if I make the top and bottom shorter on the one end, right? so they fit inside the sides? Any tips, suggestions? Is it difficult to veneer them? Any pointers? If I choose to paint them, I was thinking a filler (don't know the english name for it) to cover up the joints, then use a foundation, then paint (what kind?) and then what? Wax and clearcoat? any help is much appreciated here guys. |
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#2 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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I may or may not have direct experience with this design. I measured a locals drivers and suggested he increase the length of the port from a 6" hole in the box to a much longer one (6-8", can't recall) for considerable improvement in bass performance. I have also simmed a number of these and did not like what i saw.
David Dicks has also gotten into a number of testy forum discussions trying to defend his one-size-fits-all box design philosophy. I'd suggest that you design your own box if you opt for these drivers. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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#4 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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The local guy liked his before the vent mods. He liked them better after (Note: he also used much more bracing than specified).
They were OK but I was underwhelmed. They used the 12" standard (or maybe the 10 -- he has both). I've not had the opportunity to hear any of the cast basket ones. Many speak highly of the cast 8". Looking at the T/S data, i'd think a horn would be a more appropriate box. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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#6 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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A horn based on something like Dallas would be smaller than any of the official cabinets for AN 10s, 12s or 15s.
If you want an elegant Met, a bipole EL70 met would be my suggestion. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: North West
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Sometimes I think its best to find things out for yourself.
I haven't listened to these cabinets, but i know of someone who is pleased with the "Ambience" version. Stick to the original plans. But make a front baffle that allows for some experiments with port sizes. Can't help with veneering much, but the iron-on stuff works well for me. I would build them and get the sound sorted, before thinking about any finishing. If you don't like them, there's always the option of open baffle. Possibly the best option. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Not debating that OB's aren't a viable option for some folks, but if "horns" are an issue for the missus, how likely is it that an OB capable of employing these drivers (i.e. possibly needing some low end assistance) would have any higher a WAF?
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: North West
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Quote:
In my case very likely. The open baffles are quite wide, but reasonably flat. Therefore not intrusive. Suitable horns could easily be the size of a fridge freezer. Fine if you have the space. |
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