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Old 13th May 2011, 03:29 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Portland Oregon
Default Approaching my first build

I'll be taking a stab at my first DIY project.......cabinets for a pair of Fostex FE127E's.
I have chosen (at this point anyway) the Brynn http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...map-021107.pdf

I want to make one change and add a third section if you will to the bottom. This will bring the speaker up to a better listening level and allow a voided space for me to add sand or lead for weight.

Does anyone have an opinion on where and what to add to any chamber walls? Any personal experiences, tweaks would be great!
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Old 13th May 2011, 04:20 PM   #2
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Better ask Scott.
I suppose that the opening has to be sticked to the floor (acoustic coupling).

Once build the Gabriel , no need for lifting!!
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Old 13th May 2011, 04:24 PM   #3
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Pic. to show.
Canged the width depth and added some "curvy Chang".
They are now in use with a B110 and T27, sounding awesome!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg lumix 24-3-08 265.JPG (157.0 KB, 250 views)
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Old 13th May 2011, 07:53 PM   #4
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 503Timber View Post
I'll be taking a stab at my first DIY project.......cabinets for a pair of Fostex FE127E's.
I have chosen (at this point anyway) the Brynn http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...map-021107.pdf

I want to make one change and add a third section if you will to the bottom. This will bring the speaker up to a better listening level and allow a voided space for me to add sand or lead for weight.

Does anyone have an opinion on where and what to add to any chamber walls? Any personal experiences, tweaks would be great!

1) do you have FE127E on hand? these are still one of my favorite small drivers, but have been discontinued for some time now.


2) sand or other dense ballast to the lower chamber is certainly a good idea ( I used kitty litter on one of the pairs I built)

3) rather than extend the height of the cabinet, why not tilt it back approx 5 deg? We found this both aesthetically and acoustically quite effective with the Tysen and FH3.

4) I lined all internal panel walls with ultra-touch insulation ( 1/2" thick recycled felted denim with a bonded fabric backing - wonderful stuff to work with) and as best I can recall no additional stuffing was necessary, but that can be adjusted to taste after drivers installed and fully broken in (200-400hrs recommended )

5) It wouldn't hurt to add another layer of material to the outside walls, and a nice thick 45 dg bevel - amazing at how "slimming" that can be. And without invoking the great master debate yet again, I'd recommend decent grade multi-ply ( BB or Euro Apple, etc.) or particle board over MDF - but whatever material you decide, it's better to build and enjoy some music than engage in the polemics and not.
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Old 13th May 2011, 08:29 PM   #5
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I do have the drivers and I'm enjoying them in a cabinet that is far from ideal so I'm pretty excited to move forward to a proper cabinet.

The idea of tilting them is one I hadn't thought of......hmmmmm

I have some self adhesive 1/2" thick cork for making cork boards and such......what would that do as a cabinet liner?

Could you elaborate on the multi-ply (without stirring the pot)? I am very new and assumed MDF was the way to go from my car sub box building days.
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Old 13th May 2011, 09:42 PM   #6
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Personally if I'd do the effort of building such a large horn, I would use a bigger driver as well.
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Old 13th May 2011, 10:43 PM   #7
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 503Timber View Post
I do have the drivers and I'm enjoying them in a cabinet that is far from ideal so I'm pretty excited to move forward to a proper cabinet.

The idea of tilting them is one I hadn't thought of......hmmmmm

I have some self adhesive 1/2" thick cork for making cork boards and such......what would that do as a cabinet liner?

Could you elaborate on the multi-ply (without stirring the pot)? I am very new and assumed MDF was the way to go from my car sub box building days.

cork would not be my first choice - we use this stuff:

Creative Sound - Product Details

Tilting the box could be as easy as extending the side panels and cutting them at the chosen angle (as noted before 5dg seems to work quite well), and building the rest of the box at all 90dg. Angling all the panels to retain a horizontal top panel does take a bit more set up, but for anyone experienced in building car audio enclosures which seldom lack one or two slopes, that shouldn't be much of a problem.


By multi-ply, I'm referring to "Baltic Birch" (generic term) or Euro-ply, ApplePly etc. These are high density (i.e. nominal 3/4" has total of 13 layers) all veneer (vs composite) core plywoods, and the better (architectural) grades will be guaranteed void free and have grade A1 selected face veneers. Without getting into the debate I can note that a local car installer ( 30+yrs experience ) has had me building sub boxes for him for at least the last 5 years from BB. We still use MDF for grille frames and assembly spacers
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Old 13th May 2011, 10:52 PM   #8
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talaerts View Post
Personally if I'd do the effort of building such a large horn, I would use a bigger driver as well.
It's probably hard to tell from the photo that Leonidas posted of the double mouth version ( Gabriel), but the Brynn to which 503 is referring is not really a horn, and certainly not large.

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...map-021107.pdf


He's looking for a design as a step up from what he has for an existing pair of drivers, and the Brynn is as good as any simple to build candidate as I've heard.
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Old 14th May 2011, 01:54 PM   #9
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Join Date: May 2011
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I'm going today to get my supplies and hopefully start this weekend. I am going to build stands to tilt them back 5 degrees or so. I have a few questions before I start....

1. Can I mount the driver 3-4" higher in the cabinet without any problems?

2. Should I router the edges of that lip inside the cabinet (to combat any "chutter"or "chuffing")

Last edited by 503Timber; 14th May 2011 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 14th May 2011, 06:28 PM   #10
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503,

I have not heard recommendations for the BIB yet for 127e and for a first time builder.
The dimensions of the BIB are different but I've built the BIB for FE127e and can recommend it after years of listening. My side panels are extended to get the speaker height up. There is a long discussion on the BIB plus some smaller ones. You are fortunate to have some 127e's yet. That Fostex was my first buy for DIY building and I'm still using them in various projects-- some small some large. For large builds, the BIB gives a very pleasing and satisfying sound especially for instruments like grand piano and string bass.
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